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Everything posted by Padeen
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Thank you Arthur, there is still a need for wood filler but yes I should have a nice surface to make a good job with the second planking, although I don't particularly look forward to using superglue again... Hi Alistair, Thanks. Hum, yes I've seen your guns and I do see the appeal of bying some new ones myself! At my rate of building I still have time to decide what to do but I think that, at the very least, even if I keep the barrels, I will make some scratch wooden carriages. We will see.
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Vitus, I'm am in awe before your beautifull planking! I hope mine will come half as good. Regarding the coppering, maybe you can copper one side and leave the other natural? Well, wathever you decide, I'm eager to seeing the result.
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Hi Sjors, I'm glad to hear that you are feeling better but don't overdo: Anja is right. We want you fully recovered before we ask for more pics!
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Hi ofencer, thank you for the comments and the link. 24/08/2013 Hello MSW, At last something new to add to my log: I've had a chance to make some progress on Fly during the holidays! The first planking is now complete and I've added the stern counter pattern. The hull has been sanded and is rather smooth, though it still needs some wood filler corrections before I can start the second planking. And... that's not going to happen before Christmas...
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Nice to see you at work on Le Mirage again Sjors. You are doing very well with the ratlines... or should I praise your spiders?
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Why not paint your ship?
Padeen replied to BassicBill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Indeed, if one is looking for authenticity, a fully planked model should also be painted. Why don't we all do that ? Well, I guess for most of us it's just a matter of aesthetics: some find natural wood or stained wood looks better, others don't want their beautiful job of a planking to be hidden under a coat of paint, some are afraid to spoil the model with a poor painting job... For instance I did not paint the hull of my fisrt model beacause the contrast between the different woods pleased me (and the model was not based on any particular boat anyway) but I will paint the second one trying to respect the colour scheme of its period and country both for authenticity and for aestetic reasons (I don't like the look of walnut). As for museum models, I think that many models were made as shipyard prototypes (like the Admiralty models with partially planked hulls and no masts) so they were left unpainted. Then maybe modelers thought that this was perfection and where inclined not to paint their models (a bit as we constructed buildings with white columns, taking inspiration from Greek and Roman temples, not knowing that they were painted at the time). Just my two cents' but I think the main answer is "aesthetics". -
Hi Sjors, She is coming along nicely! It has been a while since last time I had a chance to look at your build... Keep the pics coming!!! About the oars, why not put an engine instead? (probably harder to model, I agree, but only one to make...)
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Chris, I am more and more impressed by this kit! Thank you so much for making us salivate in anticipation! As for a frigate... hum... 1/64 scale and... well... I think any you pick will suit me, being a frigate! If you may design one outside Her Majesty's service, maybe Lafayette's Hermione (or is she too small)?
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I agree with the above. If I had to summarize, I would say that an entry level wooden ship model kit should fulfill these caracteristics: - be a subject that you really like: if your heart is not with it you'll never finish it or you'll do it laboriously, without pleasure, - be rather small (say one or two masts, cutter or sloop, unless your soul cannot rest with something smaller than a three-decker! in wich case it's no use to buy a cutter!) so that each construction step is rather fast and you can feel that you are actually progressing: each milestone achieved gives you confidence wich is the main requirement to achieve a first build I think. This also allows to change of task quite often so that the build does not fall into monotony. - have decent instructions: pictures of construction steps, mentioning ALL part numbers involved at each step, DETAILED part list and MULTIPLE plans is a minimum (to be able to say that the 'wathever it is that is called a stanchion' is actually part #30 and goes there... and that this long stick of brown wood that's 4x4x300 mm will be used to built the roof...) - be at a rather large scale, mainly to simplify the rigging step: these tiny blocks can be a bit frightening... - have a reasonably low price so that you can buy tools and books (unless you already have a well furnished workshop, that is) but not too low so that you have a box with good quality material in it. - oh, and did I mention it? BE A MODEL YOU REALLY LIKE! - and maybe... be a kit that has been built or is beeing built by a MSW member! My first build possed all these qualities (except the last one) and it fulfilled its job: I'm in!
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Merci Peter ! I think some hobby shop lurking in will be in order this weekend... Cheers,
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Nice work Peter! I've been following silently for quite some time now and I thought I should let you know... I was also wondering where you got those nice looking figurines of sailors, they do add life to the model. I have my fingers crossed for your topmast...
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Michael, This is the first time I dive in your build log but it will not be the last! Your are doing an impressive job on this model and it is a real pleasure to see all the detailing allowed at this scale. I am eager to seeing this "little" one on the water... Cheers,
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Well done Popeye! You can be proud of her, she is a beauty!
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Very nice Popeye! That's a tidy deck with neatly coiled ropes...
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Wow, I was not aware people could actually rig without a needle threader: I would have given up the rigging without it, never having been able to get a rope go through a needle hole without it! Do make sure you have several of them in stock: they do break sometimes...
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