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captainbob

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by captainbob

  1. Thanks, Alfons, the admiral wants the hull black. I said the underwater area would have to be the rusty red as I have on the other models. She said I could try that first but I might have to repaint it black. Admirals ! As for the deck it will be natural light colored wood, and the inside of the bulwarks will be white. Bobh
  2. 14" sounds right but you need to captivate the line going through the pulley so it doesn't come out if there is slack in the line. Bob
  3. Michael, glad to see Walter finally got the material he was waiting for. I’m sure he’ll do a fine job with such fine looking line. Bob
  4. Daniel, what size bottle will you use? She looks small enough to go into a half pint. I wish I could come up to Denver to see your presentation it should be great. Bob
  5. Russ, I was afraid that glue alone would not be strong enough to support the bulwarks. So every fourth or fifth station goes down and is glued to the hull. Michael, we’ll just have to see how it goes. One builder said he painted deck furniture and cabins before gluing them to the deck. So now we try painting before guling down the deck. Is that the same or . . . Oh well. We’ll see. Yes, Jud, It will probably be a combination of sandpaper and scraping. Little tiny scrapers to get into the tight corners. John, and Popeye, thanks for the good words. Bob
  6. Hi all, The hull is finished. When they rebuilt Lettie, which is what the drawings were taken from, the fore deck was raised to match the poop deck. That’s why the deck measurement is longer. They also extended the monkey rail all the way to the bow. In trying to restore Lettie to original condition I installed the monkey rail around the stern, only up to the step in the deck. I’m going to do something different this time. I’m going to paint the hull and then install the deck. On the one hand I won’t have to mask the deck; on the other it will be harder to sand the deck. Well that’s how we learn. Bob
  7. Floyd, I have seen some beautiful prize winning scale models that were RC. So build her with the RC options. Someday you may want to sail her. Bob
  8. Antony, What a great article, lots of good information there. Thanks Bob
  9. Sounds like you're in it for the fun of the build. That's great and lots of fun. I'm anxious to see the finished boat. Bob
  10. Good luck on your sea trial. Oh, and that’s no mess, I’ve seen worse than that in finished boats. Bob
  11. Well done on all that rigging. Now I see why they had specific belaying locations for specific lines. If the line was not in the correct place you would never find it. Bob
  12. Thanks, S.os, the Schooner Bertha L. Downs would also make a fine model. There’s a lot of nice detail in that book. Russ, I have to agree with Chapelle’s statement just before where you quoted, where he says, “Purposes of some fittings could be understood only if vessels could have been fully rigged and fitted.” At least it seems that the staple had nothing to do with the sails. So I will install it and leave it empty. Bob
  13. Thanks Peetee for the kind words. I'm glad it looks easy. What you don't see is the number of times I take a part off to do it again, and again, and again . . .
  14. I believe this is a rigging question. In the drawing below, on the rail, just behind where the deadeyes for the fore mast will be there is a staple bolt and an eyebolt. I don’t find them in the rigging information or pictures. They are also on the Bluenose plans but no mention of their use. Again they are only at the fore mast, not the main mast. What are these for? Bob
  15. Nice to see someone else building the Lettie it will be interesting to see the differences. I am trying to build her as she was originally built. Looks like yours is as she is now. Am I right? Bob
  16. Congratulations, she’s a beauty. You should be proud of her. Bob
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