wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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I don't want to belittle your work, but I quite admire that of your wife - perhaps technically not too challenging, but certainly a challenge to keep track of the movements of the bobbins ... France is slow in rolling out the jabs, at least for the Pfizer-BioTech or Moderna ones, which seem to be more effective. Will have to wait until early summer probably. -
Some (non-model) companies also sell acrylic emulsions without pigment as primers, but I have not been happy with the resulting surface. Shellac would work, but one may still see streaks from brushing it on - due to the short drying time, spraying may be difficut and it requires good ventilation, as pure alcohol is used as medium.
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I find that small parts that are not fingered don't actually need to be primed, that is, when you apply the paint with an airbrush. Just keep coats sparse.
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The advantage of acrylics for washes is that one can work very fast. They only takes minutes to dry and one can apply quickly the next round. The following layer does also not redissolve the previous layers, as could/woulld happen for enamels or oils.
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Did you paint on the raw wood, using the acrylics as a kind of stain ? I have not actually done it like this myself, but if you prime the wood with a sanding filler, sand it nicely and then apply washes of acrylics, you might avoid the problem with uneven penetration due to glue stains. I have done it on resin models and one can achieve a nice worn looks.
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These guys had to be fast not only to evade government steamers, but also, in the absence of refrigerated holds, to get the catch quickly to the Scottish fish-lasses for gutting, salting and barreling. A considerable proportion of the annual production was exported to the catholic countries of Portugal and Spain, who could not fulfil their own demand of fish for the many fasting-days in their calendar.
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Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
wefalck replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It all depends also on the size of the spars. Some may be just too short and thin for planing. The shape can be easily checked with calipers and corrected by running the sanding-block down the long axis of the ellipse. For small spars a shooting board and a sanding-block might be a good combination. Or holding the dowel in a pin-vice/drill chuck and then working with sanding-block on a wood board. For the finishing touch it is a good idea to have the piece rotating. I tend to use steel-wool for this, rather than sanding-paper. -
Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
wefalck replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Using a power-tool along a mast or spar to be shaped would only work, if you were using it as what is called a 'tool-post grinder', i.e. mounted to the cross-slide of a lathe. Otherwise, it would be very difficult to run the power-tool steadily enough along the piece of wood in your big power-drill. Using a sanding-block or strips of sanding-paper run a long the wood as sort of steadying effect and you bring linear surface into contact with the wood, rather than a round one. Old machinisists handbooks from the 19th century are source of useful ideas for us hobbyists. At that time lathes usually did not come with all those fancy attachments that are seen today as needed to do quality work. Machinists had to improvise. If you don't have a tailstock for your arrangement, but need to steady the far end of a long work-piece, you can fashion what would be called a 'fixed-steady' from a block of wood clamped to the work-table (as would need to be your drill in a horizontal position). To the front of this block you glue/staple a piece of thick cardboard into which you have punched a hole of the diameter of the dowel you start to work with. This will not last for ever and you may need to replace the cardboard from time to time. You could also use a piece of wood instead. Once you are done, you just cut off the thick part that is left on your mast/spar. -
I have seen lace-making at various places around Europe (Brugge, Le Puy, ...) and it is fascinating to see professionals at work (the German term for it is almost onomatopoeic: klöppeln, which kind of imitates the sound the bobbins make, when thrown over each other). Industrial and mechanised lace-making, particularly in Nottingham, killed much of this artisanal industry around Europe - and of course a change in fashion. I noticed that the net on the boat was actually spliced and not knotted. Now I understand, why you (as a collective term ) went down the lace-making route. Looking forward to your further explanantions. On naval ships they had netting along their open rails, e.g. on bridges, and I always wondered how one could replicate this at small scale. Here the nets are knotted like fishing nets actually and the meshes are typically elongated hexagons. Doing it by a process akin to lace-making might be a solution.
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Proud owner of a Dremmel drill stand
wefalck replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The old machinists' rule something should not stick out of a chuck more than 3 to 4 times the diameter. With stiff material, such as certain steel you may be able to go safely to 5 or 6 times the diameter. This applies to wood as well, but it also depends on the absolute diameter. The reason is the run out that can dramatically and suddenly increase when you are working on a part, due to the sideway pressure you are applying. The consequence is, that you have to support longer parts at the other end - in a so-called tailstock or a so-called fixed steady. I would imagine that it would unnecessarily difficult to device a tailstock or steady for the hand-held drill mounted in the drill-stand. If you want to go that route, it is much easier to take a long board, figure out a sort of clamping fixture for the drill and a steady or tailstock at the other end. Much more stable, than the drill-press. There are examples here on the forum and elsewhere on the Internet. A classical example, that has been up on the Net for 20 years is this: http://www.lathes.co.uk/fonly/ (Government Health Warning: Don't look at the other pages of this Web-site, they make you drool ...) -
You are welcome, Gbmodeller. I used to live just around the corner from them for some years and collected quite a bit of literature on them.
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Yes, it's a Zuiderzee-botter from Marken: It is also on my own Web-site: http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/models/botter/botter.html
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Ah, OK, I wasn't aware that it is ream of uncut paper. So we have then 0.6096 m x 0.9144 m x 500 = 278.7 m^2 and 6142.5 g / 278.7 m^2 = 22.06 g/m^2. That looks more like it and is actually a quite light paper. This is actually quite helpful, as I have tried to find over here something equivalent to your paper. Yes, I have noticed that in the US they sometimes use some rather obscure units ... I can calculate in feet and inches, but when it comes to drams, gallons, fl.oz. etc. it gets complicated. There may have been several ways of attaching the reef-points, but a common way seems to have been also, to unravel the rope a bit in the middle and then to sew the three unravelled parts to the grommet on one side of the sail. Difficult reproduce on a model even at 1:48 scale though. A tight figure-of-eight-knot, distorted so that it forms a sort of crown and glued to the sail may do the job. One could even flatten the the knot by pushing a thin metal tube over it, while it is still wet, soaked with PVA glue. Didn't have the the idea with tube at the time, but tried to use tweezers here on an example in 1:87 scale:
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Michael, I have been thinking leather only ... actually thinking about the operation of a pilot cutter, I was wondering, whether leather would have been a good choice for them. The guys would move down in their wet-weather gear (oil-skins, sea-boots) and would stay ready without really removing them. That's normally not so nice on leather. May be they choose oil-skin for covers ? Or they oiled the leather, like you would do for sea-boots ?
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Americans determine the weight of paper (and hence indirectly its approximative thickness) quite differently from us Europeans. They just give the weight, while we use grammes per square-metre (g/m^2). The weight is measured for a ream of 500 sheets of the paper in questions. Taking your layout-paper, I arrive at the following conversion: 0.229 m x 0.0305 m x 500 = 34.9 m^2. Dividing the weight, i.e. 13.5 x 455 g = 6142.5 g by 34.9 m^2, I arrive at 176 g/m^2, if my arithmetics are correct. This is in fact a very heavy paper for the purpose ... I am rather surprised.
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Difficult to choose between the leathers - normally I am fond of green, but I think the bordeaux goes better with the kind of wood ...
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What about cost - there most go a considerable amount PLA going into such hulls ? How do you smooth them after printing ?
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Did these sails have bolt-rope ? I think they would have had them to make them stronger.
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Yes, British racing-green or bordeaux deep-buttoned leather cushions would be the choice
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You could take several pictures and splice them together as a vitrtual tour through the boat under construction ... looking really like the real thing.
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There are lots of examples, just search for 'ropewalk'. It's not difficult and a ropewalk can be improvised easily - the guys of old also used 'home-spun' ropewalks. Properly done 'rope' is much tighter and better 'defined'. Particularly in the larger scale you are working in, this is quite visible. I think it would add a lot of extra value to your nice boats.
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Same question as to the lettering ... Have you thought about making your own 'rope' ? Would add a tad more to the pretty good realism already.
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