42rocker

Robbyn To make things worse, Model Expo has the wood strips precut. A hand jewelers saw for the major pieces and buy precut strips as needed and you could give the battle station a try. Cannon might be a problem. Where your teaching do they offer any shop classes?? A fellow teacher??? Take a long look at the Battle Station on either website. Hope that your hand is better. As far as kits go I still like model expo / model shipways stuff. One that is being done as a group on this website is Chuck's """18th Century Lonboat, True Plank-on-frame""" http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS1457 Enjoy Life.. Later 42rocker

Another call from the dark side. No major tools required. You can always say this is what a battle station looks like from your current model. Directions and help are right here on this website. The Battle Station which uses simple tools and does not need a jig saw as your not cutting frames. If after reviewing or making this then think about a cross section. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/374-building-a-battlestation-by-russell-barnes-plans-and-guide/ Later 42rocker

Mark Wiped it down with mineral spirits several times and slowly scrapped each tooth clean of all wood build up before I started the test cuts. Did not spray it down with pledge, might try that next. Found one broken carbide tooth, rest looked good. The couple of planks that I did cut, came out ok enough for house building work, just over the 24 inch length the thickness varies 5 to 8 thousands and have some light burn marks in a couple of areas. Just not what I'm used to seeing in my work. For this project I want better. Later 42rocker

Your frame line up is looking good and like the way that you kept the false keel long so you could screw it down tight. Later 42rocker

Russ I sure agree with you. Waxed the table before I started and after using it also, it's Fla, rust grows quick around here. Blade is at 90 degrees and fence Is what I'll be working on next. I try for a parallel fence, I know some folks like to open up a slight amount but I'm not one of those folks. Really think that ripping through 2 inch thick hardwood with an 80 tooth cheap blade that's well used could have been a major part of it. Also going to be looking at the fence locking handle. I really like the type of fence that locks at both ends on the table, but that's not what I have so I'll work with this one the best that I can. Have a plan just need the time to do it. Maybe if I skip work tomorrow?? No, bills to be paid. about 3 more years then part time then a few years later maybe full time on my hobbies. To dream away. Later 42rocker

Mark and Russ """It went flying across the room???""" No No No,,, Everything was totally under control. Still have 8 fingers and two thumbs and nothing went flying. After doing the cuts and seeing the results I hid the good wood, the ParMarfin on the other side of the room not letting it get near the saw after I saw the results from the popular and basswood. Had several burn marks and was not of equal thickness over the length on any of the test samples. Why?? I've been using the saw to much during the building of my house, where a few thousands here or there or a burn mark on the wood did not matter. Now it does so I'll be double checking the fence and the clamping handle and getting a new saw blade. Shop Fox fence on a Grizzy 10 inch. My saw that I bought over 6 years ago. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-220V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLX Also thinking about ordering another Forrest blade for it. One of my opps today was using a too fine a blade for ripping. Should have used a blade with less teeth. Also one that I've not been using to cut anything and everything which was a cheap saw blade to begin with. After all I was ripping popular and basswood 8/4 length 24 inch down to 3/8 x 24. Not a simple cross cut or thin rip, this was a 2 inch rip through a harder wood. Change blade and work on the fence and all should be fine. Can't wait to start using those great plans from this site. Later 42rocker

I hate bad updates. But I'm alive and doing well, no problems. Finally cleaned out and got the table saw hooked back up to the dust vacuum. Brought over a plank of ParMarfin 6 x 1 x 48 inch and some popular 8/4 x 4/4 x 24 inch and some basswood 8/4 x 4/4 x 48 inch. Cleaned the blade and did a few test cuts, old pine, then some popular I was thinking about building with, then did 2 passes on the basswood. Hid the ParMarfin on the other side of the shop.. Well I'm thinking new blade, adjust the fence. Or some of the other ideas I've been thinking of. So while making saw dust I'm still at square one. I'll get there just not today. Hope that you had a good build day. Later 42rocker

Well it's not mine either, hope mine turn out that nice also. Later 42rocker

Michael That's a nice jig that you added to your thread on cutting thin wood. Thanks Check it out on his thread it's nice. Later Tim

Michael That's a neat jig that you have there. Thanks for making and sharing the pdf of the jig. Later Tim

Wow, interesting stuff that you folks are doing. Someday after making a lot of saw dust I would like to give this a try. Later 42rocker

Your Rigging work is great. Good Luck Later 42rocker

Well looked at Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models and was checking scarf length and style and the book said that the length of the scarf was normally 4 times the width of the keel. So for me in 1:24 keel is going to be 5/8 inch wide so 5 x 4 = 20 => 20/8 or 2 and 1/2 inches long. So with a heel of 10 inches the scarf joint will be about 2 and 1/2 inches. For normally used 1:48 scale 1 and 1/4 inches long. Think that I'll use the basic one on page 74 - 6th figure down. When I try to cut them I'll try to do a show and tell with pictures and a few words. More reading and getting ready. Saw dust soon I hope. Later 42rocker

rummy The only time that I have seen a board like that was one that was made for small weights for a balance scale. That said the ones on the right are a lot deeper than the ones that I've seen. Good Luck on finding out what it is for. Your cross section is coming along nicely. Later 42rocker

Daniel Rather than using your finger so close to the sanding disk try using a hold down stick, safer. Looks like it is fitting good. Later 42rocker

Russ I really like the ideas and goals of the project and under the planks of my future build you will find butt joints. But the frames that I'm not going to plank I'm going to try for a few chocks. After looking at the keels of the Echo group photos I just have to give it a try. What the heck if I fail I can always drop back and do the keel without. Now after seeing the outside hull planking by Grant "Boccherini" I'm going to be thinking about that also. What the heck I can dream big, right? Later 42rocker

Russ Thank you for that super fast answer. I spent a few hours reviewing and double checking to make sure I was right about what I said. Now you cleared it up in a few minutes. Thanks. Now to work on how to make those scarfs and chock's. Thinking that is still working on getting ready to start cutting. Later 42rocker

Small labeling error found in plans. Error is only labeling will not effect anything on the builds. It's only an error if you are comparing cross sections frames to complete ship frames. While checking something else out I found a small labeling error. According to what I have seen we are working on frames 5 through C. See CrossSectionFrames481 pdf (needs . ) Look at left frame #5, no gun port and 90 degree area at top. Now look in the complete ship pdf's and find TritonDOF@48-1 pdf (needs . ) Look for frames 5 - C, notice how everything is shifted one to the left or right, which is up to which plans you call correct. As stated this is just a small labeling error in what are a great set of plans. How did I find this error, well I guess that I looked at to many Echo cross section builds and said I would like to add scarfs and scarf chocks into my build. Asked myself were there any in the plans for this area or not. Looked at complete ship plans TritonKeelPlan@48-1 pdf (needs . ) and it shows several scarfs in the plans. So my next question was where, as the Disposition Of Frames plan labels the frames but does not show the scarf joints. So printed all of the above and checked the "scale in feet" diagrams, the same so did the overlay trick to find out where the scarfs joints would be. Found that there is a keel Scarf joint at the right hand side (or bow side) and a keelson scarf joint near the left side (or stern). Also there was another scarf joint in the false keel under the keelson scarf joint. In double checking I found the labeling error. I also found later an easy way to find out where the cross section is. If you have an idea about where it should be look for how the spacing around the frames is. The frames around the gunports are close, then you have a wider space before the single stand along like frame. This now gives me an idea on where the cross section lies on the complete ship. Also went looking and found one of the first books that I bought that completely changed my thoughts on model ship building. "Historic Ship Models" by Mondfeld. Needed to find the word for the keel joint, scarf. After buying that book and reviewing it I gave up buying kits. Looked about and never went back. One of the better finds was this website and the MSB website and of course this great cross section. Still have to ask which frame labeling is correct. The cross section plans or the complete ship plans?? Well just looked at frame 5 in the complete ship plans and it has a notch on one of the sistered frames in two places for a gun port. Therefore there is a chance that the frames are labeled one way in the complete ship plans and one frame different in the cross section plans.Just pulled up frame 5 from both sets of plans and they are different. Just did the same for frame 2 and different again. Did final check on frame C and different again. I guess the best thing is not to compare and just remember that the two sets of plans are labeled different. Later 42rocker

But I can sneak in a few minutes on the computer at work, can't do that with the building of models at work. LOL. Later 42rocker

Mario Your attention to detail is outstanding!! Great job. Later 42rocker

I hate my updates at this time. Still getting everything setup. Found the wood, just still redoing the shop. Going to fill a garbage can with "stuff" tomorrow. Looking for my 4 inch flex hose so I can hook it to the table saw after I clean up a lot of loose wood dust that is. Hopefully a better update next time. Later 42rocker

Love your work.. The way that you just made the barrels outstanding. The ropes and barrels and ballast look great. So nice Later 42rocker

Wow that in itself should always bring back good stories and thoughts when you are talking about your cross section. Enjoy. Later 42rocker

Harold Hahn talked of using his and his neighbor's tree cuttings in his book. Looks like it worked good for you. Nice job. Later 42rocker

So hard to believe this is out of card stock. You have done a great job. Later 42rocker