glbarlow

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Well the move was completed after our new home was built on Oak Island.
The new model workshop/office is far smaller than my previous one at only 13x13 but I’m using shelving and other things to maximize space which is ongoing.
Winchelsea is now waiting for me to start Chapter 7 on the Quarter Deck hopefully in the next couple of weeks as soon as I find all the parts!

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

What a difference some paint makes.   Bulwarks are painted however as usual, I will be applying many more thin coats over the next few weeks as I progress.   
 
Before and after...
 

 

That is kind of difficult to do with planking.  The planking needs to be sanded. afterwards to be neat and smooth and it will only get wrecked.   At least for me.  Most items are indeed painted beforehand but I just dont see how you can do it with bulwark planking and have nice neat planking.

Fenders and Chesstrees
 
Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull.

Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of  while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back.

I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces.
 
I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil.

I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive.  My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding.
 
I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in.
 
I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again.
 
The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end.
 
To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.




 

The Quarterdeck - Part 2 of an extra long post

The capstan and companionway post and rails are installed. The rails are 3/64 square boxwood fitted between the posts. The
‘locks’ for the capstan are from 1/16th square boxwood, shaped, painted, with a blacked nail as their pivot. The scratch from a dropped tool on the beam behind was later fixed. I really need to stop dropping stuff.

It starts to come together (Wheel and binnacle just sitting there).

I used the template to cut down the transom framing posts to their final height. This razor saw comes in handy for tight, fine cuts.

The provided center curved laser cut piece also has to be bent. I took a left over beam and sanded its curve to match the template then repeatedly heat bent the center piece to the proper shape. I also used a thicker gel CA which gives a bit longer set up time and a near welded attachment to the posts. There is no way to clamp it so for a few wild seconds on it goes, fit, check, slightly panic, hold in place, abort, no stay with it, step back, did I get it right, yay I did.

The outer wings are laser cut extra large to allow for the angles and width necessary to match up each unique hull shape. They take a good amount of time to sand, file, and fit, but what a nice look it turns out to be. I couldn’t really paint off the ship and as you can see in the photo got a little paranoid about painting it installed.

It all turned out fine in the end. As I noted in the previous post, the progression from framing to a completed stern has been a really fun trip. I’m really pleased with just how different, detailed, and so much better this element of the model has turned out in comparison to anything else I’ve built. It think it’s pretty cool.


I spent a really long time on the breast rail. First it was frustration with char removal. I created a separate post on this topic in another forum and got some great ideas. I ended up using all of them, and adding some really nice special purpose Glardon Vallorbe needle files to my collection. As I’ve mentioned before, jewelry maker websites like Rio Grande are the best source for these and other tools I use. I also added this set of metric set up blocks. I bought them on a whim with no specific purpose in mind, but I find myself using them a lot. They are on  Amazon and just keep coming in handy.
 
Anyway, after adopting new methods and Chucks assurance to just dig in and shape them given they are made bigger than needed I finally got there, more or less. I made this rail three times, the first time the bottom rail broke (Chuck was kind to send a replacement), the second time, despite using a spare beam to match up the angles, I didn’t get it right and I still didn’t I like the look of the posts. So I took it apart again and spent even more time with char removal and shaping before reassembling again.


This is a major element of the model, I’m ok with how it turned out in the end. Though even now I feel like starting over knowing I could still do it better.

My tool set for the q-deck rail sections. The little posts with squares on them in the center are my jigs to place, drill, and add the two eye and ring bolts on each upright before they were installed. It was so much easier to do now than trying to drill and mount once on the ship.
 
There’s those set up blocks again, the 12.5mm one was the right size to square up the opening (eventual gun port) between each upright. The thinner longer ones I used to keep the uprights aligned for the eventual top rail.
 
I just love bending 24 gauge wire for eye and ring bolts, doesn’t everyone. I’m pretty good at it by now.

And on they go, section by section.

Finished off with the fragile top rail. I painted it off the model. The thin tape strips mark where the rail aligns with a post. I stripped off the paint on the bottom side of those tape marks so the glue was bare wood to bare wood. I don’t trust any glue to adhere paint to paint - so this and also roughing up the wood with a #11 blade or chisel is my practice. I could have painted it on the ship I suppose…with my luck I’d drop the brush on the frieze, so no.
 
You can also see I, again, knocked off a port lid. I’ve done this too many times to count. I really, really, really should have waited until the very last thing to install these. The vinyl hinges look great and are great, but they are fragile. Obviously all I need to do is not knock them off, but I’m really good at it. So far I’ve been able to glue them back on.

The laser level again came in handy along with a measured spacer for centering, squaring, and locating the ships wheel. Once located I roughed up the wood on the deck, again not trusting any glue to adhere to the multiple coats of WOP.

The Qdeck furniture is now all installed.
 
And there we have it. One more post with finished chapter ten photos.  Thank you for stopping by and for your likes and comments, hope you made it to the end of this long post.
 
I'm going to do a third post with Chapter 10 Complete photos.  There is a limit on how many can be uploaded in a single post, it seems I like to test that limit.

I'm near complete with Chapter 10 and will post more soon.


Meanwhile, with the transom cap rail added the stern is officially complete.  The model has come a long way from it being framed out, looks just a tad different now.

Glad you were able find the Uni-thread. 

Glad you were able find the Uni-thread. 

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