glbarlow

I’m a bit concerned about several builders near running out of strips both first and second planking...
 
we all have our methods around gun ports, thanks for sharing yours.  I like the idea of a file with a single face, I need to find one of those.
 
I sometimes cut a jig from scrap about 3-4mm height, long enough to hold on to, and the exact width of the gun port. Then attach 220 to one width side and 320 to the other with double sided tape and use it for a “file.” Being the exact width of the gun port and smooth wood on the sides gives me consistency. 
 
Looking good!

This is a fantastic approach...use pencil to draw the planks then you can redesign it every year🤣😂

Work is progressing well now second planking is done (apart from above the wales).
 
Trimming the planks level with the tops of the bulwarks was straightforward. Unlike other colleagues in the Speedy club I didn't trim the planks round each port as I came to it, preferring to lay all the planks in one go then trim the ports after the glue had dried. I had to use off-cuts from 2nd planking the hull, otherwise I would have run out of strips,  but it wasn't a problem as I was able to use the short lengths to fill in gaps between ports. I just left the planks slightly over-length so I could trim them to final size after they'd dried. I used the usual combination of drill, sharp tools and files to do the trimming:
 

The oar ports were the trickiest, requiring a drilled hole followed by a square file. I drilled from the outside, holding a block of scrap wood against the inside of the bulwark to minimise the risk of breakout. Once again the boxwood proved its quality, being relatively easy to carve and file. The job also reminded me how glad I was that I'd got a set of decent Swiss files a couple of years ago - Vallorbe brand. Like many of us I'd got by for years with a set of 12 files for £5 from a DIY supermarket, and it wasn't until I got the good set that I found just what a difference they make - beautifully crisp and precise. I found the barrette file particularly useful on this job - that's the one on the left of the two above. It just cuts on one face, so I could get right into corners without damaging other faces.
 
Next job was painting the inner bulwarks. Two coats of diluted red ochre - I may give it more later:
 

 
I'm looking forward to finishing off the outer planking next. That'll feel like a milestone reached.
 
Derek
 

Hi SpyGlass
 
Here's the one I use. I call it PVA but technically it's an aliphatic resin - chemically similar to PVA but stronger and sandable.

It's described as fast grab, but don't let that put you off - there is plenty of time to position your work. It's fast in the sense that you should have a decent join in less than 30 minutes, although as with all glues of this type I leave critical joints such as frames overnight. 
 
I believe aliphatic resin is sometimes known as yellow glue, but mine looks white to me. I got it years ago - from memory at a model boat show - use it all the time and I've still got half left. The manufacturer is UK based Starloc Adhesives - here's their retail website shop-4-glue.com. You'll see they do a range of glues and applicators.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Derek
 
 

Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. You all seem to be coming down in favour of the laser etched deck, and in particular version two.
 
I think I'll take your advice and forego the pleasure (?) of making a fully accurate boxwood deck on this occasion. Another time, perhaps. However I'm not sure which version of the laser etched deck I prefer. I get the point about the clutter around the hatches and other openings in version 1, but won't a lot of that be covered by coamings and the like? On the other hand, the trunnels stand out a lot on version 2 and they will be visible regardless. 
Glenn, for me it would be tapering the planks and getting the joggling right that would put me off. As for boxwood, I cheat and use the castello variety. It may not be quite the same as English boxwood but it still works well and gives a good finish. I get it in 3' x 4" sheets in a variety of thicknesses from 3mm to 10mm and mill my own timber for planks, spars etc. I'll drop some off next time I'm in Texas .  For really fine work, such as block making, I buy old boxwood folding rulers and they're guaranteed well-seasoned!
 
Derek

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

I am quite the opposite, I’m excited about it. Great materials, good instruction, plenty of support. 
 
Sorry you got the wrong message from my posts. 

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

I've been away for a few days but I've now returned so I can continue on with my build. I am currently planking the inner bulwarks.
 
I completed the starboard side before I went away, but require a little bit of tinkering around the gun port and oar port openings, sorry about the quality of the photo's.

I then moved on to complete the port side bulwark planking. I used my super phatic glue and clamped each plank and allowed the glue to cure for at least 30 mins before moving on to the next plank. As seen in the pictures below I have completed the planking and I'm just waiting for the final plank's glue to cure before removing the clamps. I decided to clamp around the gun port and oar port openings to ensure a good bond. I have found this made the removal of the excess wood a bit easier. For the oar port openings I found it easier to use a small drill to make a series of holes which I then joined up with my craft knife to clear the opening. The ports were then tidied up using  my needle files.

Great Job  Looking forward to starting mine

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin. 

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin. 

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin. 

In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful 

I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’

I've returned to the second planking layer of the wales now. The first four strakes are 3/64" x 7/32" and will be painted black. 
The fifth strake is the black strake will be added after the wales are finished being painted and will be left natural in color.
As the wales and black strake are supposed to taper to almost nothing at the stem. This is to make them look like they fit
into the rabbet. I pre sanded them down to 1/64" before gluing them in place. This helped me smooth them down without
having to take as much off and risk damaging the stem.
 

 
Here she is in all her dirty glory. The starboard side is unpainted and the port side with a first coat of paint.
I am using Admiralty Paints "Matt (Metal) Black"
 

 

 

 

 
Many coats of paint to go and then I'll add the black strake.

I’m looking forward to the log. This model has peaked my interest about scratch building.

Woot!  More Cheerful!!!!

I was referring to the outside of the hull. I know we just glue on the strips, but for beginners to get them lined up and spaced properly will be a good test.  I really hope they sell well, its important beginners have a good first experience. For me, although I'd built the Blue Nose first, I really learned the good stuff from building the Virginia AVS using a detailed practicum from Bob Hunt. I still use that for reference on rigging methods (that I forget between models).  So my recommendation is the model itself is of course important, but the accompanying instructions - which you are really good at. The beginner won't have a clue about using plans, but learning all the steps and how to do that will lead them to their next purchase of the Alert or Speedy 🙂

Nice looking little boats - I'm thinking that side moulding might be a challenge for a beginner but I'm sure you explain it well in your instructions. This is the kind of kit I'd like to get my grandson when he gets a bit older, I wish you the best of luck in finding a market for it. There is just so much mass produced, but heavily marketed crap, on the places and website beginners would go to look I hope they can separate from all that to find a kit of this quality. I'm a fan.

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin. 

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin. 

Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet.
Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. 
 
Build log to follow once I begin.