Thanasis

Many thanks!

I have also used a similar to Chuck's tip. I opened up the rope and passed through only one of the three strands. After applying some ca glue, I cut the two other strands and made some turns around the rope with the first one, covering so the cuts and simulating the seizing. Tserniki vessel of Mykonos Thx

Beside wood and time saving, a full length plank can give you smoothly the curving lines of a hull, rather than a row of small planking parts. But that depends on everyothers will. Thx

Hi. Depending on the length of the dowel (upper mast) see whether you can cut it in two pieces. Then open holes, at both pieces and place a metal thin rod (unbendable) that will connect them from within. Put the metal rod at one piece of wood at a time and after you have applied some ca glue on its surface. Finishing you can cover the cut by a hoop, as a part of the rigging. That's I would try before I turn to make a new one. Thx

I will agree with wefalck up to a point. According to Gr. book "About the rigging of the ship" (Περί εξαρτισμού των πλοίων) of 1919 at page 96, the hem of a sail is not being folded (back) and sewed alone but there are additional fabric strips, that are being placed at the front of the sail and then are sewed together. Also in the Gr. book "Terms of sail ships" (Ονοματολόγιο ιστιοφόρων) of 1890 at page 112, there is the French term "les doublages" that is referring to fabric strips that are being sewed at the sides of a sail to give reinforcement. It doesn’t say on which side (back or in front) so I can only guess what that "doubla" means. So at least me, I can accept hem on both sides of a sail. If someone can read Greek, I can place photos of those pages. Thx

Mike, I use that cotton fabric that is being used for bed sheets which first I have ironed it well. I use a sharp razor, I press the fabric with a metal ruler and I make the cuts over a piece of cardboard. Thx

Hi Mike. Yes this is a part of my lazy technique, when I make sails for my models. Take a look there: Aegean Tserniki vessel Thx

I don't know what kind of grommets were being used on the sails of Arrow. To my knowledge the grommets as sewn metal eyelet (not as hammered grommets) were known at that period. Certainly wefalck's method could imitate also the sewn ones. Thx

Hi Mike. Make the holes on the sail-s. Then insert the point of a pencil in every hole and give it some twists, marking this way the perimeter of each hole. Make the same in the other side and the result will give the illusion of a grommet. After the marking on the holes, you can reinforce them by inserting a toothpick which you have soaked it a bit with ca glue and give it again some twists. That's what I do. Thx

From my library. Thx

Hi all, Could be also considered these rigging items as "fairleads" or is something else. I haven't seen them before. Thx

Hi Chazz. Take a look at the links http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8936-zip-ties-yes-or-no-for-seizings/ http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1255-question-on-false-seizing-zip-seizing/ (Sorry, but if you have problem with the second link , I don't know why it doesn't work properly...works perfect through the first link though) Thx Thanasis

Hi Derek. I had also bought one pack of those to find out that they might do what are promising only when the planks are in low thickness and with a gently tension of the screw. Otherwise, as it happened for me, that small plate tends to distorting, pressing only the closer to screw side of the plank... Now, I use those plates in a combination with board pins (instead of screws), which because of the wider base, they prevent the plate to be deformed. As about the pre-drilling on the bulkheads, a smaller in diameter than the screw drilling, usually helps. Thx

Hi. John here's my tip, fast and cheap. Take a piece of relatively soft wire at a thickness close to the side of the thimble you want to create. By the "side" I mean the part of the thimble that it will stay uncovered when the thread (rope) is placed. Fold the wire in two pieces and make a loop around a rod in a proper - required diameter. Cut the rest of the wire and apply some ca glue between the formed loops. Then with a fine file, make flat the curved edges at the side and you've have your thimble... Thx

A Greek proverb says: "When you hear of many cherries, hold a small basket”... The ship models can be seen also there: http://greekshipmodels.com/en/home/ Thx

Thanks Jack. Unfortunately there is nothing to give any clue about those boats. I haven't found any similar boat or rigging in Gr marine tradition. Although they both have "penna" (Bermuda) rigging, it differs from the "penna" that was used in Gr. vessels. In addition the rudder and the tiller don't have Gr. character... Many thanks

Hi Jack and thanks for the info. Do you Know whether the boats in the photo (taken in Kalamata Peloponnese-SW Greece) belong also to Italian marine tradition (hull and rigging). Thanks

Hello all. Portuguese fishermen might still use something similar, not to say the same at least at the end of the stem of the galliot bow. From the photos I guess that, either they were using something made of rope like the "baggywrinkle", or they might would cover a proper wooden shape, with a sheepskin. That would explain what it seems like heavy load at the edge of the yards. What remains, is to ask a Portuguese fisherman, about the name or even the construction of that. Thx

EJ_L. Many thanks for your comment but it isn’t my idea. As I mentioned before, I just recall it from the past, having seen it as another member’s tip. I wish I could remember his name to give him the deserved praise. Wefalck, say that nothing happened. Really no hard feelings at all. Just to mention, that being ship modeler from almost 20 years, I faced twice that an idea of mine was "stolen" and was presented in forums as their ideas. I won't tell you the tips nor the nationality to protect them just only it was in the days of DryDock models forum. In one case, he probably didn't manage to come in a result and in addition, he had used one of the photos of my own presentation. They were run out of luck and I found them.... Through the messages we exchanged, I felt the embarrassment and their shame when I demanded to delete the posts and forget the issue. So, having this experience, I couldn't even think to copy another's tip and present it as mine. It wouldn't make me richer. Thx

Thank you all for your comments mates. Wefalck. I accept you explanation, although I would prefer this 'tongue-in-the-cheek' expression been placed at the beginning of your sentence, or with a more relevant emoticon... To set you free from the translation (you may write it if you like) just tell me whether in the text is there any reference on haemostatic pliers with hole to make scratch marks, or small hinge to shape the shackles over. I won’t expect to find any reference on PC processor though. In case of not, then the word “exactly” (the same), should be used with care. Thanks

Thank you all for your comments mates. wefalck . Thank you also for your notice. Well, believe it or not I wasn't even thinking to involved with ship modeling back in 1980 (at my 18) therefore at that time I wasn't following any ship modeling magazine and especially in German language, which I don't speak or write. Wanting or not to accuse me, and being (me) a bad user of the English language, what really bothers me in your notice, is your words "probably" (I don't read German) and the "exactly" (same technique). By those words what I get, is that you have doubts whether this technique is not a copy and you decided to share it with the forum. I really can't read the text in the pdf of your link, so apart from what I can see (a drawing which shows a piece of wire being flattened at its edges - what else someone could think at first making shackles), I would like to translate the text and point me out the "exact" same procedure. Many thanks

Many thanks for your compliments mates. Happy modeling to all. Thx

What has left is the “key” of the shackle. You might find your way to represent that “key” but following the above method, you have to consider at least the diameter of the holes of the shackles. It’s rather rare to find something to look like nail…3-4 mm long and with less than 0,50 mm in diameter. Thankfully I recalled a tip from another mate some years before. For those who are not familiar with the inner of a pc, the processor has one of its surfaces full of pins. What I did, is to set up a small fire in my backyard and take the last offer of an Athlon processor…. Then I collected many and ready for use “keys” for my shackles. For those who will follow the same tip, you will find that many of those pins come out with some lead on their head. Don’t panic. Just keep them with a tweezers over a lighter's flame… .................................................... That’s all mates. I hope at least I have inspired you and I’m sorry if you get tired with the use of English language... Many thanks

Next stage is to give a general “U” shape to those metal pieces. -So by the use of a rounded nose plier on the edge of a surface (I suggest a wooden one), push each piece to bend it. Be aware, not to exert pressure at the edge of each piece but on the not flattened part of it. Because of the flattening and the hole, the edge has been weakened and you might ruin it. That’s why I mentioned “on the edge of a surface”. -It’s also important to bend them symmetrical so that the edges be equal to each other. -At this stage, when you have “U” shaped them all…you must align the holes on each metal piece by both axis. Finally, we come to the last stage. Take every “U” shaped metal piece and place it under that modified hinge and in specific, between the pivot and a wooden pad. Then with a round nose plier exert pressure on the metal piece at the same time at both sides of the hinge. One or two passes will give you that “Ω” shape-the result you want. No need to mention, practice always leads to improvement…

Ok, let’s set a Shackles producing line…. You may choose your way for each of the following stages but I’m showing what I do… -Take a piece of paper and draw two lines at the total length that a shackle should has to be, depending on the scale you work. I work at 1:24-1:26 scale so I found suitable the 8-9 mm length. Place the wire between those lines and cut as many pieces you want to transform into shackles. In the photo is shown those ear piercing nails I use and incidentally the lines of the page are printed in 8mm space. ! -Take the heavy duty pliers and place each end of those pieces between its jaws, up to the line of the masking tape. Exert pressure and you will have a flat part on each end of the wire. Try to create those flat ends at the same level, although it will be a correction, later in the process. Remember, the tape was placed at 2mm on the flat space, so it helps you not to measure every time how much part of the wire should be flattened. When you finished with the flattening, it’s time to use the haemostatic pliers. Take each piece of the wire and place each of the flattened parts between the jaws of the h. pliers under the 0,50 hole you have made. Then with your rotary drill, and through that hole, try NOT to make a hole but a scratch mark on the flattened surface of the wire. You might have some holes (as in photo) on some of the pieces but this is not the aim at this stage. There is only one hole in the nose of the h. pliers, so if you try to make a hole in the wire by force, you probably will need a drill bit, for every hole you open…You can finish the job later over a wooden pad by the help of the scratch marks. At this stage and if you like, you can round a bit the edges by the use of a thin file.