No Idea

He glues 1000 grade and 2000/2500 grade paper to a very flat piece of hardwood. He then uses this as you would a whetstone or diamond stone. His pictures paint a far better picture than this though.

Your welcome mate - I have found this supplier to be extremely good and they really are proud of their products. I wouldn't go anywhere else in the Uk now. As for the kerf - I have found that we lose 50% of everything we buy its just one of those things. Its better to cut what we have correctly then try and save a few quid here and there. If you need a really good supplier of fantastic wood in the UK let me know and I'll pass on their details. Happy building buddy

Hi Glenn thats was me mate and I stand by what I said. I have found a few suppliers that can supply me blades but I buy mine from Jim and Donna. I live in the UK and the postage is high but so what. Support your supplier and they will be here for your children's children. If you don't our amazing hobby will become a thing that people used to do.

Hi Steve - using these blades made the biggest difference to my bandsaw. They are just brilliant and they will make just about anything that you want. The cost is also very reasonable. I have various width blades for different tasks. https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk

He provides full instructions on how to sharpen his chisels when you buy them. Its not hard to do just a bit different on some of them.

bitao your work is just incredible........wow 👍

These are a great little mill especially for wood as the spindle speed is so high. There is very little chipping or tear out with small end mills. I actually think you are doing a fantastic job with the chisels and your build looks really nice 👍

The detail on those beams 😎 Just such inspiring work 👍

This looks absolutely great and don't worry about the time it takes. My last hull took me 9 months of spare time to complete the planking and it was worth the time. Yours will be too - looking forward to your updates.

Hi Dave - I really think that this comes down to budget. I have seen sanders similar to the Proxxon sander for less than £100. I have no doubt that in the right thoughtful hands it can do the same as the most expensive sander that money can buy. The difference for me has been ease of use, accuracy and repetition. Would I have know this 5 years ago probably not. This comes with experience and actually when I consider how much it costs to import Jim's tools over a 5 year period they are not that expensive for what you get. Also you would never need to replace it either.

I’ve had both of these machines. The Proxxon is a very capable sander and can do every job that we builders need it to do. I had mine for 5 years and then gave it to a friend who is still using it. I now have Jim’s sander which is simply much better in every way. It’s better built and more powerful too. The table does tilt and has the advantage of pin locked increments which you can go to time and time again for exacting angles. For me it was just an evolution in my building and I love Jim’s sander and wouldn’t change it now. However when I first started building the Proxxon was more than adequate and still is an excellent sander. I guess we grow as builders and change our gear accordingly.

😂Cheers bitao I’ll give it my best shot my friend 👍👍

Thanks very much Eric 😃 Now for a change of plan yet again. After having built up the starboard side I couldn't quite see how hawse frame 1 blended into hawse frame 2. I wasn't sure whether I had built them correctly so I decided to roughly fair these parts first. This was a bit harder than I thought that it would be due to the parts being quite flimsy added with a lot of material that needed removing. I removed 90% of the material from the hawse timbers off of the ship which meant that I had to try and imagine the finished shape. It's one of those jobs that just seem to make sense as you remove material. I'm glad to say that all looks ok. I've not taken it back to its final finish I'll do that when the outside of the entire hull is faired. Mind you what a mess I made of the square holes on the hawse timbers. They are all different sizes and I could have done better. I now need to replicate these odd holes on the other side Now that I know that I'm on the right track the port side will be next Cheers Mark

Thanks for the really nice comments 😀 I've now fitted the last two hawse timbers on the starboard side. Timber number 5 is a sliver of a timber (try saying that without putting on a pirate accent 😆). The spacers had to be tapered and I had to pretty much guess their location by eye but I think it looks ok. I've also taken out the brass rod and replaced it with treenails and its all glued together. When the time comes I've a lot of excess wood to remove before I even start shaping it but at least its straight. The tricky bit starts next weekend and that's trying to replicate it on the port side Cheers Mark

Hi Kevin - I photocopy the plans and then carefully cut out each piece with some very sharp scissors and glue them to the wood. It saves an awful lot of drawing.

Hi all Sorry for the lack of updates I've been busy doing other things so the build is taking a bit of a back seat just for the moment. I have to admit I really have had problems getting my head around the drawings for the hawse timbers. I've been looking at Adrian Sorolla's book and it seemed to me that his pictures really didn't quite match the plans by Gerard. So I've been going around in circles trying to get a working understanding. My conclusion is that Adrian very cleverly simplified the design slightly for ease of build. The first hawse timber is very slender and requires a very accurate taper of 16.9 degrees to set the rest of the timbers up. I think that Adrian left this first timber fairly flat and then sanded the shape both inside and out once built. So what with me being one for a bit of self punishment I decided to follow the plans to the letter. This obviously meant that I had to cut this taper into hawse timber one. At first I tried sanding this taper but failed as the timber becomes so thin that the end kept on breaking off. So I knew that it had to be machined and I eventually solved this problem. I purchased a cheap angle meter for £12 which has proven invaluable for this job. I also made a very simple jig for the mill vice which to my surprise actually worked with a bit of double sided tape. Anyway I now have 3 of the 5 hawse timbers lined up on the starboard side. I have held the timbers temporarily together with some 1mm brass rod which I will swap out for wood when it comes to gluing the whole assembly together. I want to glue it together but not to the hull so that I can sand it into shape off of the ship. Some pictures below which probably explain it all better than my words. I'm glad that I'm moving forward again and I'm much better now at interpreting drawings now - well until the next problem! Mark

That is beautiful work bitao 👍👍

Hi Kevin - you say that you are worried about being a ship builder. Mate you are building a ship so you are a ship builder 👍. keep going bud as it looks great and stop beating yourself up! This is a really good build.

Hi Mate I too use Panavise but prefer this vice https://www.amazon.co.uk/PANAVISE-8103-Standard-Head-Silver/dp/B0002BC1XQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?adgrpid=55927007751&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuoL54rvt8wIVFeDtCh0EswsCEAAYASAAEgJZ-_D_BwE&hvadid=259082504851&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1006500&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=7524682549615227343&hvtargid=kwd-296013458331&hydadcr=7433_1749334&keywords=panavise&qid=1635436527&sr=8-12 They make all different vice jaws too. I use the brass jaws for wood and it would just fit into your existing base.

I have to echo what’s already been said. I’m glad your back on this as I think your doing a great job. The ships really looking fantastic. Just remember - if it was easy everyone would be doing it. They’re not - but you are 😉

That is such nice work and in scale too........Your patience and skill is to be admired as thats a lot of treenails and it looks simply awesome!

Thanks druxey I had a feeling that would be the answer. I'll just have to take my time and try and get them right Thanks for the help Dziadeczek much appreciated.

Just to add to this thread I have now replaced my Bosch Gas 20 with a Festool CTM Midi extractor. There's not that much difference in overall size and the CTM fits nicely under my bench. The CTM is a class M extractor which is a step up from the Bosch which was L class. It seems very well made but most importantly for me it is a lot quieter. It also has a very long hose so I can put it further away too and I have found that low power on this machine is about the same as full power on my old machine. However it is a very expensive machine so only time will tell whether it was worth it or not. Also considering the price it came with no tools for cleaning up at all. This was an additional cost even though it was a small one I think the manufacturers could supply them with the machine. If you really want to go for it you can buy a bluetooth switch that turns it on and off at the tool end to save walking back to the machine. I also think that this should be supplied as standard. I'm just waiting for an adaptor to join the Festool hose to my tools now but having run it up the lower noise will be bliss in my workshop as I had my old machine on for most of the time.

Hi everyone - I need some help from you please as I'm a bit confused. As you know interpreting drawings is not my strongest point and I would appreciate your opinions on the attached drawing. I'm not sure about the filler pieces between the vertical hawse timbers. I think that the drawing says that as the filler pieces go down towards the keel they taper slightly so that they are thinner at the bottom than the top. It looks like its only a slight taper or is it an optical illusion?? I've reached the point where I'm confusing myself so all advice/comments will be very welcome. If they do taper I can take the measurements from the plan but I just wanted to check before I start. Sorry about the lack of updates but I bought a new dust extractor and I'm still waiting for an adaptor to make it fit my machines. It should be here next week and there's no way I'm using them with any kind of extraction. Thanks all - Mark

Hi stuglo I also thought about doing this but the M70 is too small for this vice. In the end I sold my M70 and bought a Sherline. Maybe it’s time to learn to cook 😂