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Everything posted by No Idea
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As they say - if at first you don't succeed 👍 Take two - I marked out both port and starboard sides this time as I was feeling a bit more confident. I also started by using the more accurate angles that I learnt from my first attempt. I also found it a lot easier to make them if I cut them to near enough their final size. Here's a comparison for my first go against the second attempt. Having less material to remove and a smaller contact area made the job a bit easier to see. And now both sides are on!! When you look at the results it doesn't actually look like much of a job but I bet there's about 6 hours of gentle sanding to get these to fit. They are a bit rough at the moment as I need to fit the plank below to get the final shape. Another job completed Cheers Mark
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
No Idea replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
That really is lovely work - I agree this is going to be a great model 👍 -
Hi Kevin - I don't know if this is what you and Gary are looking for but here is a link that gives you the OD and ID of needles. I guess that this is a good starting point. It's only a guide as in practice I have found that using a 16g needle gives me 0.9mm tree nails? https://www.hamiltoncompany.com/laboratory-products/needles-knowledge/needle-gauge-chart I also run my mill at about 1000 rpm and have found this to be the optimal speed. If you get burning try dropping the wood into water for 5 mins before cutting the tree nails as this has also worked for me too. Cheers Mark
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Hi Kevin - I'm also trying this needle method and I'm getting great results thanks to the thread on here originally started by vaddoc. I have found that by taking his advice and using body piercing needles instead of hypodermic needle's the results are much better. Just google body piercing needles and you will see what I mean. Here's and example - Also I have found that just putting a 30 degree angle or there abouts on the end of the needles works great. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252808332323?hash=item3adc8d0423:g:gfgAAOSwxEpYxC5Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8E%2BnzGprgTxciozHiEvBmvsFdXyWpfpBmyGeotGRlNuJL6v0ubwGUBsM%2B86sfQUiUGWDaSqhoMIFOErXTy86WmaGG%2BLBXBPfVNStypmSOx87Es3o%2BU2q5X0f9jl96uW9SC0AWN%2FYSlGTjcld34grvzItmoirt2gN60BKo%2FmDIAGZAKLqDLH7LgqBa2CM%2F7XXjCe%2BpOjBGVVSYfQRoym5X1d9mRoPY8vx%2Bm1pJn4AuNpNKqC%2B42hROWHrlxUTY%2BbK3VjJ9IhlGBuEMIxxBc31VapuRIjfopXurPuQWeQYA9wxg7A4TGyOZFRLWO3KC0%2Bz0g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9vSkytdg
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I've been having a go at making this plank and I am getting somewhere with it - I made up a couple of templates off of the drawings to get the correct shape of the plank. Its shape transitions which makes it slightly more awkward and I thought the best place to start would be to cut the outside angles. I guesstimated these using a slide bevel to be 37 degrees and 12 degrees. Anyway the result was attempt number one which doesn't fit anywhere near accurately enough but it has given me the correct outside angles which are 28 degrees and 7 degrees. I'll try another one tomorrow using my new angles 🙂 I think I'll get it right on attempt 4 or 5!! The nice thing is I know I'm on the right lines 👍 And I've just discovered how to insert pictures into posts - thats todays win for me 😜 - cheers Mark
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Definitely - I use my Byrnes saw every day I'm working on this model for one thing or another. Best tool that I own and it flies through some of the thicker sections which on this model at 1/24 are sometimes 13mm thick. It just gives you that repetitive accuracy that helps to combat accumulative error.
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Hi All Well after a fantastic holiday and a bit of a break I've re-started work on Le Rochefort. Firstly I marked out the whales using a height gauge and then cut the timbers which are quite big. The whale timbers are 10.70mm x 3.30mm so I knew that they would be a bit of a challenge to bend around the bow. The whale is made up of 3 planks which are joined by a scarf joint which I made using the mill as I did with the deck clamp. I have also started on the strake below the whale which is slightly smaller at 10.00mm x 3.30mm. This strake only has butt joints where the planks meet which makes it a little easier too. I've also started the taper up to the stem to try and avoid too much plank crowding later on in the build. My next job is to make the very difficult carved plank that wraps around the stern to the rabbet on the wing transom. I think I've got some idea on how to make this part but I also think its going to take me several attempts to get them right. I'll keep you updated and here's a few pictures below of where I'm at now. Cheers Mark
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Crikey Kevin - that is one hell of a lot of nails - you're going to be dreaming about nails by the time you've done that job. A nice bit of patience there though marking them all out - good luck mate 👍
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
No Idea replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Awesome bitao 👍 -
Just my thoughts - but looking at the picture and the drawing I would suspect that the 9" top timber tapers very slightly in the bend as it meets the 8 1/2" futtock. If I were making this part I would make it out of a wider piece and cut the shape into it. I don't know if this will help but thats what I see - cheers Mark
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Hi Tony I’ve not actually used this line at all during my construction so far. I have always rightly or wrongly assumed that it is the ships waterline. If you drop Gerard a message who is on this forum I’m sure that he will be able to answer your question. I will have an update on my build pretty soon too. Mark
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
No Idea replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Bitao - your work is truly stunning mate 👍 -
This is a great thread and I agree that actually you don’t need that many tools. However some power tools do not just speed the job up but make the results more accurate and repeatable. I have Jim’s tools and I cut all of my own material from bigger pieces of wood. They allow me to make strips of wood in any size time and time again. Is it really needed - probably not and I think builders should use what their budget allows. It’s taken years of saving to get this kit but it never stopped me before I had it. Having said that I wish Jim would make a vibration free spindle sander 😊. If I had to buy just one piece of kit I would buy a table saw as it’s so flexible in what it can do.
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Wow that is really lovely work
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- winchelsea
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
No Idea replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Lovely work Tobias your ship is looking great. I'm looking forward to your updates. -
4" Sliding Bevel Required
No Idea replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wow that is nice 👍 Thanks very much for pointing me in this direction and I'll have a good look at this one. It may be a little bit too big for model ship building but what a lovely tool it is! Hi Bruce - yep these are my go to guys as well. I buy all of my wood from these people and I did not know that they sold tools too. I'll give them a ring in the morning to see if they have anything in stock or any ideas too. Thanks again 👍 -
Hi All I want to get myself a really nice 4" sliding bevel preferably made completely from metal. I'm struggling to find a really decent one as Richard Kell no longer makes them and Vesper tools in Australia do not take back orders anymore. If anyone knows of a 4" sliding bevel supplier could you please point me in the right direction Cheers Mark
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Hi marsalv - so not only did you work out the difficult programming for milling dead eye's; you then made a drive system to put them on the lathe. This my friend is genius level machining and so great to see 😀
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- le gros ventre
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Fantastic work there HH - Enjoy your well earned holiday.
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- heller
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Great video Kevin and nice to see you back modelling 👍
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