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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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HH: you might consider 'progressive' vari-focal lens spectacles. Since I got mine, I've rarely needed an Optivisor - something that i wore extensively over the previous 10 years.- 2,669 replies
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- heller
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Your work looks excellent to my eye. Mark. Very sweet.
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It appears that the manufacturer did not know this and simply intended it for a relatively unsophisticated kit.
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A radius is required so that, when at anchor, the cables are not chafed when the ship turns and they cross the bow. I've discovered that, in shipbuilding, there was always a reason for why something was done a certain way.
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Allan makes a good point. There are many models that do not show this double taper (from aft to forward as well as from below upward) of the knee of the head. The knee is not simply slab-sided. It makes the fore end of a model look heavy and clumsy. An example of this taper is shown here:
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Congratulations on achieving this milestone, Alan!
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With a small table saw such as a Byrnes, with a proper set-up you are unlikely to have a kick-back. However, as a precaution, I always stand to the left of the path of any potential flying object.
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Your leather looks very good. Nicely McGyvered!
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- Model Shipways
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Yup, it's an 'advanced' all right! If a piece buckles as you describe, you can often selectively re-wet the buckled bit and 'massage' it into the shape you want. But it looks like you are coping well with that tricky countered stern.
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It appears that the lowest strakes do not narrow sufficiently as they come into the bow and stem. Once you have lined out the planking runs, you must follow them accurately, or cumulative 'creep' will occur and you'll end up with the same problem again. Also, your garboard could end a little further aft as well to help things out.
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Harold Hahn method
druxey replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
In fairness to Hahn, he used this for small-scale models, not large 1:48 scale ones. The wastage was significantly less. -
Harold Hahn method
druxey replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Here is an example of the open 'Navy Board' style of framing. Note that the model was built right side up, with no wasted extended toptimbers.
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Well done! Your final result looks great.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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Sometimes we just have to do what works. I suspect it was the same in a real shipyard as well. It's looking very good. Sorry to read that you came down with the dreaded 'lurgy, but good to read that you are recovering.
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I suppose the question is whether the bow transom will bother you. If so, changing it will be a good exercise in correcting things. Most, if not all of us, have a bottle of rubbing alcohol handy for ungluing things. For instance, just yesterday I unglued an item twice and re-made it for the third time because I knew it would bother me if I didn't correct it.
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Lovely, Claire! I can almost smell the wood shavings....
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Space was at a premium. You would only hit your head once on the cross-piece coming up the ladderway. After that you'd instinctively duck!
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Nice! All those studded rivets definitely give this a very (steam) punk look! great work, Michael.
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Red Ochre Paint
druxey replied to starlight's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
'Out of the tube' artists' acrylic or oil colors are generally too intense for a model without some modification. Paints specifically for models might be a better choice. -
Nice precis of a complex build!
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Welcome back, Mark! Those fixed blocks are tricky. looks like you've got them beat though. Had you considered painting your friezes on thin paper and then gluing them to the ship's sides? Contemporary models show that this was often done, rather than painting directly on the wood. I found this much easier to accomplish, particularly when the surface was directed downward!
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Untangling and rerigging or start from scratch?
druxey replied to Rgpracer's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If this were a valuable historic model, one would try to save as much of the original material as possible, This is not the case here, so Roger's advice is very good advice.
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