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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Darius: I suspect that the planking would be tapered and possibly in irregular widths. Although Vasa and Mary Rose are not necessarily examples for R.S., look at the deck planking on these contemporary examples of shipwrightry.
  2. druxey
    Um, wish I could take credit for the technique, but I saw this some time ago on MSW: another benefit of belonging to this wonderful forum!
  3. druxey
    Moving on, all the standards (inverted knees) have been added to the thwarts and the model removed from the 'girdle'. As the standards are so small, I've found it easier to install them oversize and then reduce them to final dimension when firmly glued in. You can see some 'as installed' ones and other standards finished. To shape them, I use micro chisels and a custom sandpaper stick. Next are the pillars under the thwarts. To turn such thin pieces, it is necessary to support them. I cut down a piece of brass tube and fixed in in the tailstock so that the stock can revolve freely in it. Notches mark the main dimensions of the baluster so that I can replicate the turning.
  4. druxey
    That set of oars look very good!
  5. druxey
    Nice sketches as well as metalwork!
  6. druxey
    I'm not sure if this company is still in business. I seem to recall other members of MSW having issues with them.
  7. druxey
    Thanks for looking in and the compliments. Moving on, the thwarts are in and the hull now fixed to within an inch of spec'd beam. A little miniature metalwork produced the clasp for the mast. It was fabricated from brass, silver soldered and then chemically darkened rather than blackened. I felt black would have been a little too much contrast to the wood color.
  8. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Bob. Some filler is inevitable, so don't sweat over a less than perfect planking job. Each model you build will improve your skills with the experience that you gain.
  9. druxey
    'Rotten to the core', Bob!
  10. druxey
    Harris cut is a straight diagonal cut for joining two pieces end on. The false keel it the usual application for this joint. Cyphered joints are longitudinal half- joints, edge on. See and read: https://books.google.com/books?id=TWsmw-QqvmAC
  11. druxey
    The stern sheets have been made and installed. These were made in two halves to make fitting them easier. The scores for the frames were under-beveled considerably to fit. There will be small turned pillars under the thwarts. Six will need to be made.
  12. druxey
    While good, be aware that the AOTS series do have errors in them. Check against other references.
  13. druxey
    Lovely, Siggi!
  14. druxey
    Congratulations on all that you have achieved in just two years, Chris!
  15. druxey
    Perhaps part of the problem is conflating excellent draftsmanship with researched historical accuracy. The two are not always mutually inclusive. I would tend to accept both Frank Fox and Richard Ensor's work with less question than John McKay's. For instance, there are questionable items in the AOTS book by McKay and Coleman. Although beautifully delineated, for one instance, joggled deck planking was of later origin than 1779. A good friend of mine, the historian Karl Kessler, declared: "This is a very small book. Read elsewhere and read critically, always."
  16. druxey
    Practicing a new skill on scrap is a good strategy!
  17. druxey
    So, onward again. Next are the stern sheets (seats). Here is an interesting departure from the published plans. The card pattern has a distinctly different outline when fitted to the model. I checked immediately whether the riser height that supports the thwarts was too low. It it is on spec. If the lines plan is true (and it faired out perfectly) then the plan of the stern sheets must be wrong. This, I suspect has to be the case, so will continue using my pattern shape. Beneath the stern sheets is a low partial bulkhead and two supporting knees. These are not shown other than in section on the profile but are seen in the photograph, post #203. (The knee is only just visible to the right of the anti-hogging post added by the museum.) These photos are as good as a time machine! Thank you again, Eberhard. Thanks for dropping by, and remember to sign on for the Trafalgar project!
  18. druxey
    Her lines are looking sweeter!
  19. druxey
    A really fine beginning, Gianpiero! Not many folk make tabled scarphs as they are completely hidden. Like Greg said: ahead of the pack.
  20. druxey
    Rarely has such a small part taken so long to make. However, it was finally done (pic before cleaning it up), refined and then installed. The white 'background' is actually Foamcore board with a cut-out to act as a kind of girdle, cinching the hull in to the designed beam. I've found that carvel hull boats always tend to spread a bit, whereas clinker boats do not. In this instance, the spread was four scale inches. The hull will stay in this until the thwarts and their standards (inverted knees) are installed. This will stabilize the hull shape.
  21. druxey
    Apart from the superb quality of our build, your rate of progress is remarkable!
  22. druxey
    I now have a workable method for the grating! The photo shows this. I could not mount the grating blank on top of the slide as there is no clearance under the saw. So the grating is mounted on a squared wood block to the correct height that I manually traverse, then advance the longitudinal feed 1.1mm. Repeat.....
  23. druxey
    Bruce: Unfortunately, that is not the way gratings were actually made. If both longitudinal and cross-members were half-jointed together, they would fall apart when sliced into two pieces as you suggest. Real gratings had full-depth cross-members and half-depth longitudinals. Only the cross battens were scored (grooved). In the case of this atypical grating, it is the longitudinals that are scored. Eberhard: That might be an alternative approach. Glue two longitudinal blanks to a carrier sheet at the appropriate angles and groove them first, then cut strips off them and assemble. Thanks for your suggestions!
  24. druxey
    That or photo-etch had crossed my mind, I must confess, Noel! However, this is one of the challenges that I've set myself. There are exquisite examples of miniature gratings in some museum models. If the old timers could do it....
  25. druxey
    To clear up any confusion; the grating shown in my photos above was a simpler trial version only. The actual grating will be finer in scantlings. 'Willl be' is the operative phrase. I've attempted several gratings now and, despite a spacing jig, cannot get sufficient consistency of spacing for the cross-battens. I found a tiny Dremel circular saw blade (bought about 50 years ago and never used!) that cuts an .020" kerf and am figuring out how to mount the grating on my cross-slide with sufficient clearance under the headstock. It would not work at all on my Unimat DB200, but might just work with some McGyvering on my Boley lathe as the saw will be held in a collet rather than a chuck. The cross-slide will provide accurate spacing. Stay tuned!

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