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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Hubac: there are several museum examples of models where friezework on paper was applied to the planking. From experience, I can attest to how much easier this is than to paint directly on the model!
  2. druxey
    Mark: I agree that the solid line/hatched line is another way to delineate a scarph joint (without the 'X'). Also, that there are regrettably few early examples of disposition of frame.
  3. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Kirk!
  4. druxey
    Mark: Certainly some toptimbers were scarphed, but I repeat that I've not seen too many delineated this way (with the 'X') on disposition of frame drawings. The ones that show this are later rather than earlier.
  5. druxey
    The old-time model-makers were as crazy as we are, it seems!
  6. druxey
    I see you did that that hard way: placing the fenders over the moldings rather than cutting the moldings to butt the sides of the fenders! The fit looks perfect.
  7. druxey
    And another strake completed. As these strakes now run out over the transom, they are easier to fit. On closer inspection of the plans the uppermost strake, interrupted by the tholes, is actually a wash strake. It will be fitted after the shell has been removed from the plug. This means only three more strakes to go.
  8. druxey
    Those joints were normally chocked at that time period. Chocks are more economic; not only do they uses up offcuts of timber but, with thoughtful layout, the individual floors and futtocks could be a little shorter than if they had been scarphed.
  9. druxey
    Just catching up, Allan. Very ship-shape and Bristol fashion! Well done.
  10. druxey
    Five strakes down; halfway there. If progress seems slow, it is. One strake can take an hour or two to complete. Each plank has to be spiled, marked out, cut, the joints refined, the free edge smoothed and then shaped and glued. After gluing the plank often needs finessing using the hot iron and water. Once the strake is complete, it is carefully sanded almost down to the finished surface.
  11. druxey
    It all depends on country, era, etc.
  12. druxey
    Good luck finding a new home. We'll await your return! Nice modification to those figures. It's hard to realize how small they really are.
  13. druxey
    Yes, there is a slight concavity in the newest strake, Eberhard, but nothing extreme.
  14. druxey
    So, another day, another strake on each side. Today it's strake 4. The junction at stern post and transom needed care. (I think Eberhard was wondering about this.) The plank runs were arranged so that the seam between two strakes would run into this junction. Another 'have to think well ahead' strategy. I also cut away the plug for safety here. (Photo order reversed!) Yes, Maury, I wash the planks well with a wet brush and mop up excess glue before it dries. In places such as the keel/garboard junction, I also use a dental tool (elevator) shaped like a mini chisel to clean out the angle. Thanks for stopping by.
  15. druxey
    It's his mast-erpiece, Steven! Actually, it looks like a clip of some kind.
  16. druxey
    Good things take time....
  17. druxey
    Exactly, Maury. There is very little gluing surface. Hence the occasional frame.
  18. druxey
    But that method means that the block cannot slip out of the line - the line would have to break first.
  19. druxey
    Thanks for looking in, everyone. Progress will be slow. Fitting planks that average about ⅛" wide is exacting work. You can see strake three going in in this picture.
  20. druxey
    Thank you, Craig. However, we are referencing pre-1800 building practice.
  21. druxey
    Beautifully done, Daniel! First class work.
  22. druxey
    Note to Alan as well: on smaller vessels where contemporary framing plans exist, I've seen nearly all with chocked toptimbers, but there is the occasional scarph indcated.
  23. druxey
    Questions, questions! Alan: I almost never, ever use CA. PVA is what I'm using on this model. Eberhard: I've never really got into 3D modeling since a frustrating brush with AutoCad early in the '00's. Greg: If it were a clinker hull, it could come off any any point for inspection. I'd rather not chance it with the small gluing areas involved on a carvel hull.
  24. druxey
    The garboard completed both sides and pins removed, the second strake was next. In the first photo you can see two of the various hold-down strategies used. To spile planking at this scale is difficult to do the traditional way using a set of compasses. I now use Scotch brand matte removable tape. I lay a strip over the model and dot every ¼" or so. The tape is stripped off and laid on the stock (photo). The side to be joined to the existing strake is cut first and as accurately as possible. I use a sharp scalpel and ship's curve for this. The other side is cut a little wide of the marks. The plank is then fitted and fettled if necessary before refining the free edge. It is then shaped and glued into place. Once a strake is completed I sight along it to see if there is any waviness and file the edge smooth before continuing with the next strake. Now on to the second strake, port side. The process outlined above will continue until planking is completed.
  25. druxey
    Bob: I don't have an answer to that other than I've never wished to test many hours of work to destruction! I agree that a three-piece plug would solve the issue, but at this size the extra work involved is simply not worth it. The last strake will be added after removal from the plug. This, however, is some time off yet!

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