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Everything posted by druxey
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You'e compensated well for the slight variations that inevitably creep into a build, and you've mastered bending nicely! Slow and steady does the trick.
- 60 replies
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Finished
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The planking expansion is distorted: you will need to actually spile planks to shape. Those on the drawing show the position of the butts and relative widths of planks at different points.- 475 replies
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Moving aft, there is a transom knee springing from the inwale on each side. I glue them in slightly over-size and then carefully trim them down along the curve which has a rolling bevel. The starboard side is complete and the port side knee has just been glued in.
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Calling all Trafalgar fans! This new initiative for a series on Trafalgar will tell the story in an accurate and realistic way (remember Master and Commander?) Led by experienced screen-writer Adam Preston in England, he hopes to bring the events and personalities involved to authentic life. However, to get the serious attention of a major producer (think Netflix), he needs to demonstrate sufficient public interest. This is where you come in. Adam does not need money. However, he does need signatures of support. Lots of them. 10,000 would be a good number. Please help support this initiative by taking the King’s shilling before the press gang comes for you! You can find out all about this exciting possibility by going to: http://trafalgar.tv https://shows.acast.com/trafalgar-squared https://www.patreon.com/adampreston?fan_landing=true and sign on today! We need you!
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A broach is a reamer for slightly enlarging a hole and smoothing it. Useful for clearing a blocked hole as well.
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- Model Shipways
- norwegian sailing pram
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I know, shipman, but when I scaled out the drawings with frames at 12" intervals, the length came to 28' 3" overall and the width was the spec'd 6' 10". You are just the person to lean on for proofreading my next book!
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Now that the length of this cutter has been settled, we continue. The two inwales were tricky in that both inner and outer surfaces have a rolling bevel. My strategy here was to shape the outer bevel and fit the inwales first. Then I sawed the inner shape wide of the marks. The inwales were glued in and then the inner faces carved to shape in place. A very sharp tool plus cutting with the grain were essential for this. The basic hull is very strong at this point and stands the stresses very well. A final sanding completed the inner faces of the inwales. I am now in the process of cutting and fitting an upper breast hook, making it in two pieces.
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Tom: the fit around the futtocks was not as good!
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CORRECTION: This cutter is, in fact, 28 feet long. I must be losing it. The model is 7" long. Sorry about the confusion over this!
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It's surprising now much metalwork was in a wooden ship. Nice and neatly done, Mike.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Well, the past three days have been quite challenging. I realized that I needed to add other structures at the bow before adding the inwales. First was a small fore deck. The plans did not show the plank layout, but one of Eberhard's photos helpfully did. The deck is supported by several narrow beams. Next was the challenge: a massive breasthook in three parts. The two arms are over 5' 0" long and it has a separate cross-chock. The port arm went easily and fitted around the toptimbers nicely. However, the starboard one took six attempts before I finally got an acceptable one. As the cross-chock was let down over the arms I made this in two layers. Now finally on to the inwales!
- 433 replies
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Presentation of a scale model ship
druxey replied to Gaetan Bordeleau's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
Yes, a fresnel can be focussed to a narrower or wider beam spread and, in theaters, the beam may be shaped by 'barn doors'. -
Presentation of a scale model ship
druxey replied to Gaetan Bordeleau's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
I was thinking of re-purposing just the fresnel lens with whatever lighting source is one's preference. The standard sizes are 6" and 8" diameters. -
Joe: The plans are good, and I've additional reference photos as well. If you look back to post #163 you see links.
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You should rent out space on the billboard! Looking good, Chuck.
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- wütender hund
- hanseatic
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Presentation of a scale model ship
druxey replied to Gaetan Bordeleau's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
Many theaters are 'de-accessioning' older quartz luminaires in favor of LED technology. You might be able to pick up second-hand fresnels at low cost that way. -
Congratulations! The fact that you completed the project, flaws and all, is an achievement in itself. You'll find that what you've learned building your dory will be very helpful for the next model. I also echo Paul's comments on identity: we are all in this endeavour together.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- First Build
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Shipman: Whoops; a typographical error! I mistyped 28 for 26 in the title. It's a 26 foot cutter. Funny that no-one else noticed this. Vaddoc: Thank you. There is another strake, the wash strake, to be added, and the stem top will be trimmed slightly after. It was made over high for convenience when the embryo model was held on the plug. Thanks for looking in, everyone.
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Yes, Alan, this cutter is from the 1860's, not the 1960's! You aren't that old. Thanks for reposting the link, Eberhard. The chisel in the photo is one of a beautiful set from Russia made by Mihail Kirsanov. They are fine tool steel. He is mentioned elsewhere on MSW:
- 433 replies
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Having successfully trimmed back the futtock tops, the blanks for the inwales were cut. These posed several challenges. They are 2½" thick and wide, but their cross-section is a parallelogram, the angles changing constantly along the boat's side. I cut each out wider than the final width, bevelled the outer edge first, then fitted it to the boat. The next challenge was to locate stub toptimbers that support the tholes and wash strake. These pass through the inwale and have to be spaced correctly to 'miss' the futtocks. They are now marked and ready for cutting. Once the slots are cut, the inwale will be glued in and the inner edge shaped correctly.
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Your paintwork is very nice and subtly done. The highlights and shadows look very natural and not painted. Well done!
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Good things take time. However, I would have thought that you could find another project to work on while glue sets up. More crew members, perhaps?
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- Tudor
- restoration
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