druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Nice treatment of an unusual subject, Alan. What was the source material or plan from? -
HMS Discovery 1789 by Don Case - 1:48
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The strength of such wood structures were more than the sum of their parts, Don. Once the framing is together, you'll be surprised at its rigidity. -
Ensor is an acknowledged expert on the period. His books are highly recommended.
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The earlier edition included French and Dutch rigging variations, the later reprint only covers English rigging of the period.
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Are there any decent clamps?
druxey replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Elastic bands and blocks are also a good way of holding planks in place. -
I think you state the case very well and clearly, Bob. Expectations need to be dialled back a bit.
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Try: https://www.modelmotorcars.com/scalehardware/
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Well the gun deck cannon issue is a serious one. And you wonder why so many models show the gun deck ports closed? One idea (thinking laterally); why not show the lids closed and display the armament for this deck on the model's baseboard? It has been done before; I recall at least one POW bone/ivory model in the Rogers' Collection with a similar presentation.
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The problem of cumulative error can be dealt with. However accurate your thicknessing, there is the added thickness of the glue lines to consider. The best method is to measure cumulative length carefully after, say, five or six frames and then either make the next frame a whisker thicker or thinner to compensate. This will not be noticeable in the finished model.
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You probably need to seal the cloth or you will get paint or ink 'bleed'.
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Lofting cant frames
druxey replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I've sent you a PM with an article on the subject. -
Every time that there is a 'translation', something will either be lost or an error will occur. I do not recommend this.
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Thank you, Tim. I'd just finished reading this in the morning Globe. He is probably the last of his kind in Newfoundland. An amazing output!
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Oh, I've been around for a few years, Alex! You'll find the same technique useful for all the carved work.
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By re-numbering the frames you are making things difficult for yourself. This letter/number system was the way old-time shipwrights did things, and there was always a good reason for it!
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One can use scrapers - to a point. But beyond that it's miniature cutting tools and files. I found it easiest to glue the rail to a backing piece of wood so that I could hold and turn it without risk to the workpiece or my fingers. The finished piece is soaked in rubbing alcohol to release it from the backing.
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Sometimes museum models can also mislead, having names painted on as an 'improvement' at a later date!
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Speaking of convention/myth: English ships in the 18th century never had lettering in relief - only painted on. This 'style' was started by a well-known American model-maker - some of you will know who I am referring to - in the last century.
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Apart from the weather deck/no port lid question, the angle of the transom would make reading any lettering on it problematic.
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Congratulations on some very fine molding work for the main rail, Alex! Beautifully done.
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Any frame letter or number with brackets around it signifies that it is exactly the same as the dead flat.
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Until I saw your hand, I'd forgotten just how small the model is. Very impressive.
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