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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    In small ships there was no orlop deck, any partial decking was known simply as 'platforms'. Over that was the lower deck, then the upper or gun deck.
  2. druxey
    I think one stern transom knee is a spare!
  3. druxey
    Very nice rendering so far, HH. I like the fact that you are trying to balance the artistic with the technical constraints.
  4. druxey
    Shipman: I agree that there are disparities between the photos from Eberhard and the drawings, but they are generally minor. The photo seems fairly close to the drawing of the grating.
  5. druxey
    Looks as if the bow knee is on the transom. Look at the different shapes of bow and stern knees on page 3.
  6. druxey
    It could be in two halves, but at model size....
  7. druxey
    Eberhard: It is 1 3/16" long. Kieth: Thank you. Were the grating square, I would have done exactly that, but this one is not....
  8. druxey
    Well, the test run seems to work, if a little labor intensive. The brass strips act as depth stops and I used a piece of cross-batten stock to act as a spacer. A little refinement of the method, then the actual grating is next....
  9. druxey
    Alas, Grant, my mill does not have a rotating head, or that would be the easy answer! Maury: Yes, the holes are tiny parallelograms indeed.
  10. druxey
    Thank you, Pat, and all who have dropped by. Eberhard: Yes, notching the chevroned battens is the next step. However, how to best do this is the question. I have a .020" slitting saw blade, but would need to do this with the assembly inverted and hence blind. This I'm not keen to do. I don't have a suitable tiny milling cutter to do this on my small mill - the other obvious solution. So I'm pondering other methods around this problem. One possibility is using a narrow slotting file (I have one that is .020" wide) with a jig for the correct spacing and depth.
  11. druxey
    Well, Mark, you will need micro carving tools for these! Or commission someone tiny to carve them.
  12. druxey
    Next is a major challenge; a small and complex grating aft. I first cut a pattern in card and it fit the inside of the model perfectly. Whew! Next was pondering how to construct the grating. Using rubber cement on such small pieces was not an option; rubber cement is poor in resisting shear forces. I decided to PVA glue pieces to the pattern which was rubber cemented to a piece of illustration board. The first stage is shown with the longitudinal battens in place. I'm still thinking about the best way to cut the scores for the athwartships battens. More soon!
  13. druxey
    You'e compensated well for the slight variations that inevitably creep into a build, and you've mastered bending nicely! Slow and steady does the trick.
  14. druxey
    The planking expansion is distorted: you will need to actually spile planks to shape. Those on the drawing show the position of the butts and relative widths of planks at different points.
  15. druxey
    Moving aft, there is a transom knee springing from the inwale on each side. I glue them in slightly over-size and then carefully trim them down along the curve which has a rolling bevel. The starboard side is complete and the port side knee has just been glued in.
  16. druxey
    That is excellent work, particularly at that scale! Well done so far.
  17. druxey
    Calling all Trafalgar fans! This new initiative for a series on Trafalgar will tell the story in an accurate and realistic way (remember Master and Commander?) Led by experienced screen-writer Adam Preston in England, he hopes to bring the events and personalities involved to authentic life. However, to get the serious attention of a major producer (think Netflix), he needs to demonstrate sufficient public interest. This is where you come in. Adam does not need money. However, he does need signatures of support. Lots of them. 10,000 would be a good number. Please help support this initiative by taking the King’s shilling before the press gang comes for you! You can find out all about this exciting possibility by going to: http://trafalgar.tv https://shows.acast.com/trafalgar-squared https://www.patreon.com/adampreston?fan_landing=true and sign on today! We need you!
  18. druxey
    A broach is a reamer for slightly enlarging a hole and smoothing it. Useful for clearing a blocked hole as well.
  19. druxey
    I know, shipman, but when I scaled out the drawings with frames at 12" intervals, the length came to 28' 3" overall and the width was the spec'd 6' 10". You are just the person to lean on for proofreading my next book!
  20. druxey
    Now that the length of this cutter has been settled, we continue. The two inwales were tricky in that both inner and outer surfaces have a rolling bevel. My strategy here was to shape the outer bevel and fit the inwales first. Then I sawed the inner shape wide of the marks. The inwales were glued in and then the inner faces carved to shape in place. A very sharp tool plus cutting with the grain were essential for this. The basic hull is very strong at this point and stands the stresses very well. A final sanding completed the inner faces of the inwales. I am now in the process of cutting and fitting an upper breast hook, making it in two pieces.
  21. druxey
    Tom: the fit around the futtocks was not as good!
  22. druxey
    CORRECTION: This cutter is, in fact, 28 feet long. I must be losing it. The model is 7" long. Sorry about the confusion over this!
  23. druxey
    It's surprising now much metalwork was in a wooden ship. Nice and neatly done, Mike.
  24. druxey
    Red? Sounds like Tripoli compound. Sweet bike, BTW!
  25. druxey
    Well, the past three days have been quite challenging. I realized that I needed to add other structures at the bow before adding the inwales. First was a small fore deck. The plans did not show the plank layout, but one of Eberhard's photos helpfully did. The deck is supported by several narrow beams. Next was the challenge: a massive breasthook in three parts. The two arms are over 5' 0" long and it has a separate cross-chock. The port arm went easily and fitted around the toptimbers nicely. However, the starboard one took six attempts before I finally got an acceptable one. As the cross-chock was let down over the arms I made this in two layers. Now finally on to the inwales!

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