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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Some years ago i had to make a batch of triangular deadeyes. Admittedly they were larger than yours, but I made them from end-grain hardwood stock, first making a kind of Toblerone bar shape, but without the gullies. After drilling them I sliced them off the bar like pieces of bread. They held together well.
  2. Nice to see you getting back to the cutter, Michael. Some of us were getting a bit impatient while you worked on live steam and other distractions!
  3. What you need are mini-tarps to tuck around each gun.... Seriously, I learned all kinds of neat things from jewelry making. My silver soldering success rate went from 50% to 99%, amongst other things. My wife benefitted as well; a custom white gold ring and a repousée silver 'waterfall' necklace.... The latter developed my sheet metal forming skills. I miss my days in the jewelers' studio.
  4. I hope that the buyer truly appreciates your fine restoration work. I guess these are tough times for the library system....
  5. Roger: See https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=689467 for a discussion on the gundalow construction focussing on marks on the timbers of the Philadelphia.
  6. SkiBee: You'll save yourself a lot of grief by removing the garboard and completing fairing with the flexible sanding sticks.
  7. Well, that was a red letter day, Rob! As I looked through your posts I was thinking that there was a book to be written on her - and I'm glad to see that there will be.
  8. Super work as always! Mortising rails for the timberheads accurately is painstaking work, but so much stronger than simply pegging the the timberheads to the rail.
  9. Just make sure that you have adequate ventilation if using a heater. There are too many cases in winter of death from CO poisoning due to faulty heaters or lack of air.
  10. It's a matter of taste. Somehow, to me, machine carvings lack a certain quality that the hand-carved pieces have. They are, perhaps, a little too perfect. Also, the surface finish of a machine tool gives a different surface finish to that of the burnishing produced by an edge tool.
  11. How difficult would it be for you to drill the hole now? You don't say what scale you are working at and how advanced your rigging is. If it's possible, I'd use a drill bit in a pin vise and drill by hand rather than with a power drill. Also, hold a piece of scrap wood inside the bulwark to prevent any chipping out as the bit exits.
  12. Again, just catching up to you. I'm relieved to read that you and your family have come through Covid OK. Not a nice experience, I'm sure. Lovely work and progress, JD. Might I suggest that for lining out planking that thread is more precise than tape? Just a little white glue does it. If you need to shift the line a bit, simply moisten a finger and roll the thread. up or down as needed.
  13. Learning about both those tools when taking jewelry lessons revolutionized my miniature metal-working. They are now , along with my miniature needle-nosed pliers, indispensable!
  14. Personal preference is the guide here. I agree with Bob that paper in joints weakens them, unless one pegs or treenails the joints as well. Try different techniques on scrap and see what you prefer.
  15. Just caught up with you on your build, Dan. Another neat model done. The burgee is a particularly nice detail. The lively sea is a tough thing to model, but the prop wsh is very convincing. Congratulations!
  16. Lovely presentation of an unusual subject! It's always good to see less well-known subjects modelled. Well done, Dart.
  17. At the bow it looks as if the third bulkhead needs more fairing; the garboard looks too high at that point. Are you using flexible sanding sticks to fair? If not, do try them.
  18. Bob: So many folk buy an elaborate first kit and quickly run onto the rocks. You are smart in beginning small and working up. Even a 'simple' model isn't that simple, as you've found out!
  19. Through bolts had a slot on the outer end that a forelock - a wedge-shaped piece of iron sheet - was pushed through and bent into an 'S 'to retain it. There was a washer under the forelock to prevent wood from being crushed. As many items as possible on a ship had to be easily replaced in the event. All it needed was a hammer.
  20. Nice result for a first wooden boat build, Bob. Every build is a learning process. You'll find the next model will benefit from your experience building this one. Well done!
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