druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy! -
Superb work, as ever!
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bolting frames onto keel
druxey replied to hamilton's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.) -
Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.
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Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate. You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.
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Railings?
druxey replied to hlong222's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams. -
Even dry docks would need a slight slope for drainage, would they not?
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Railings?
druxey replied to hlong222's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
In the 18th century British lexicon, railings at the ends of decks were referred to as 'breastwork'. -
And check out the reef points!
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I have an identical tack hammer. It is circa 1940 and was my father's. I still love using it; perfect heft and balance. But we digress.
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I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings. If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.
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HMS VICTORY 1765 by albert - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I've seen both closed and open varieties in contemporary models. The closed balcony balustrade would be stronger. -
A very effective solution at small scale!
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If the antique wood is a little brittle, you may be able to restore pliability as the veneer folk do: a very dilute solution of glycerin in water. Spray the cut strips and let them dry between sheets of plain newsprint under weight for a couple of days. (It may take longer in regions of higher humidity as it takes longer for the water content to evaporate out.)
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Nicely textured and colored!
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Well done and a nice presentation, Chris. You can be proud of the result.
- 30 replies
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- 2
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- Grand Banks Dory
- first build
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Perhaps such discussion - which can be valuable - should be on a separate thread and not a build log?
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The safe choice would be natural wood. However, light grey or pale gray-green might be other choices to consider. Usually the 'red' was actually red ochre; a brownish red.
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Quite the collection you have there! Well done.
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An excellent primer for learning rigging techniques, Toni!
- 78 replies
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- 6
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- rigging/masts
- NRG
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The piece shrank???
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Looking much better. And I agree: G1 needs to be rotated more.
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Those look terrific, Chuck. I'm sorry to read that Troll City over at SOS is still alive and bitching.... I suppose that trolls have to live somewhere.
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Yes; Christian is absolutely correct: Whenever possible, run the grain along a piece, not across it. Avoid cross-grain! As you had it is weak and prone to snap.
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