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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Sorry, but brown gummed paper and brown paper do become very brittle with time due to acid content. Check the back of old paintings and framed prints! Only archival (read 'acid free) papers have longevity.
  2. Yes, good prep work pays dividends even if it delays the pay-off! I swear by Zinsser primer as does CDW.
  3. It's one of those things that is usually shown exaggerated and out of scale. It originated in days before modern adhesives and tiny pins or lengths of wire were used to attach the plates to models. These were already more visible than the real thing. Look at photos of the actual Victory or Cutty Sark, and you'll barely see tiny dimples. It is better to forget about them on scale models, really.
  4. Thanks for the smile you gave me with your photo update, Ben.
  5. Yup, old time manual drafting sets usually had one or more of them. By turning the wheel, you can vary your line thickness. You may want to use a finer emery paper on the insides of the blade tips so that the paint doesn't flow too quickly!
  6. This question came up on another build log. Another way is paint, thinned to just flow, using a bow pen.
  7. I suspect making new frames for the lights would be quicker and less frustrating than trying to get consistent results thinning the existing ones.
  8. One has to experiment with the consistency and viscosity of paint when using a bow pen, but I've generally had good success. I used a fine 1000 grit wet and dry paper on the inside of the tips to make it less likely for a 'glob' to occur. Also, on the odd occasion I didn't like the result, it was easily mopped up with a cotton bud and a little solvent, allowed to dry and done over.
  9. Thanks for the description, Dan. The cutter I had used was the yellow Olfa one. I shall try again!
  10. Very nicely done, Steven. Have you tried using a bow pen for straight lines?
  11. Everything 'sits down' visually very nicely except for those red handwheels. Should they be softened down a little?
  12. Once your frames are set, glue temporary spacers between them near the sheer line. It will immediately solidify the framework and minimize the possibility of breakage.
  13. Sorry to have missed you, Clare.
  14. In U.K. you should find pear (unsteamed). That is a nice to work.
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