druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Yup, regular PVA, Mark. -
I use a glass container - actually a jam jar for Sparex. Leave the lid loose while heating though!
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Tape is good, but I find thread and dilute white glue easier to handle. To adjust the line of the thread, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down as required.
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A small hot plate that keeps your coffee hot works just as well for Sparex. Just don't absent-mindedly take a sip!
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Nicely done primer, Greg!
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Dobri!
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The gammoning slot is lower than you show on your drawing. It is definitely never on the standard; the strain would tend to pull that piece up. The only hole in the standard is close to the stem, and it is for the main stay collar. The slot will be between the head timbers below the upper cheek. It is probably located between head timbers 2 and 3. This will necessitate modifying the trail board design. (The original draftsman was obviously not a fine artist!) If you are not already aware, fine craftsman that Hahn was, much on his models is stylized. The actual construction of the knee of the head, standard and extension piece (omitted entirely by Hahn) is shown in several books, including Goodwin and Antscherl.
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Original Rigging for Cutters of 1763: with a Jib boom?
druxey replied to Gregor's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Nice, but is the drawing of a Danish or English cutter? There were national differences. -
En anglais, SVP, Yves. Private messages can always be in your first language of choice!
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You folk are being spoon-fed by Chuck, so don't complain or whine! In lining off he has done all the work for you. Just follow the mark-out and hear him. Well done, Chuck.
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- winchelsea
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Now, those are comprehensive responses, gentlemen!
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Not simplistic at all. Boxwood has very little apparent grain cut either way. Other species will show more grain in one way than the other, but it is so variable from sample to sample. Personally I don't favor obvious grain structure on a model even at 1:48 scale but, again, it is a matter of personal taste. The best cuts of wood are quarter sawn, where the growth rings run diagonally across the piece as seen in end-grain. There is no clear side or edge grain either way! Hope this clarifies things a bit.
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I suspect that this was first done unofficially, then formally adopted. The requirement to remove names was a Napoleonic wartime measure. An 1854 photograph of the Duke of Wellington shows no sign of a name on her stern. See: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:H.M.S._Duke_of_Wellington_at_Keyham,_England_in_1854_by_Capt._Linnaeus_Tripe.jpg Probably Victory should not have her name across the stern unless she were restored to her post 1770, pre-1790's condition. I guess it's a nod to tradition....
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Thanks for beating me to the corrected dates, Mark!
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I would need to look this up to confirm it, but think that the Admiralty order was to paint the name on the counter in letters 12" high in 1781, and a year later modified to be 'as large as possible'.
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Names, when in fashion, were painted on English ships; they did not use raised letters at all. This is a kit-makers' way of making a model look more appealing!
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Ziemlich erstaunlich! As everyone has said, outstanding work, Johann. What did you use to imitate leather?
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It all depends on a particular piece of wood and the visual effect you like.
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Attaching Pedestals
druxey replied to kier's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
The earlier you consider and make the arrangements for the pedestals, the easier it is. -
Check the planking tutorials on this site for the best advice. And welcome!
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Fender Guitar by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - CARD
druxey replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
So, next you'll be designing paper models!!! -
HMS Enterprise by AlexBaranov - 1:36
druxey replied to AlexBaranov's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice start! -
Both styles of coppering are correct, but the angled rows at the waterline were from about 1760's to about 1800, and the parallel rows at the waterline were a later style. The earlier style usually had a light batten of wood tacked on along the top to protect the pointed ends of copper sheet.
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