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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Look at photos of the beakhead of Vasa, 1630 and you will see pins there as well.
  2. druxey
    No cant frames were used in English shipbuilding in the 1630's, Ed. Modern 'replicas' are usually not exactly that; usually headroom is increased, modern nav equipment, flushing heads, small auxiliary diesel engines and a prop fitted, etc. Also modern safety regulations apply! One silly example recently was Bluenose II. She was being restored (the ship is a replica of the original Bluenose) and re-fitted. Current regulations insisted on a steel rudder so, at great expense, one was made and fitted. She proved unmanageable due to the weight so the wooden rudder had to reinstalled.
  3. druxey
    Depends on the country of build. Very early 1700's for English shipbuilding.
  4. druxey
    Just came across this. Very nicely framed, sir!
  5. druxey
    Another lovely and unusual subject! Nice choice, Javier.
  6. druxey
    What a visual difference now! Looking great, Steven.
  7. druxey
    I found a piece of brass tube whose outside diameter fitted the dust port (I had to flare the end out slightly for a tight fit) and the other end fits the hose of my shop vacuum. Works well.
  8. druxey
    Brilliant, Gary! That hose is draped so naturally and your weathering is first rate, as usual.
  9. druxey
    So, Rob; in short, you've been a slacker this summer. At least you've admitted it. Seriously, the renovation looks great. Do you have a 'before' photo?
  10. druxey
    I'll ask them, the next time I see them ;). Perhaps while this stylized framing method demonstrated the run of the joint lines, it saved time and materials in constructing the model.
  11. druxey
    But why would contemporary model-makers bother to show complex joints there if a simple scarph was actually used? I'd put my money on a boxing joint, Allan!
  12. druxey
    Franklin, Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750, shows boxing joints on a 4th rate of 1690 (figure 13, page 15), Bredah, 1692 (page 16) and a medley of boxing joint variations on page 18. Definitely a boxing joint is a reasonable assumption!
  13. druxey
    My first serious power tool was a scroll saw (DeWalt) nearly 20 years ago. It was an expensive purchase, but one I've never regretted. As for cleanness of cut, it depends on the thickness of stock and fineness of blade. Rule of thumb? at least three teeth in the thickness of the stock being cut at any moment.
  14. druxey
    You might want to look at planking techniques articles on MSW that are 'pinned': look in the section https://modelshipworld.com/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/
  15. druxey
    Well, Patrick, your workshop will have plenty of light! Is it heated and cooled?
  16. druxey
    Just catching up. Looking great! Thank you for explaining that you actually use split leather.
  17. druxey
    I love Weber's clarinet concerto...but we digress. Why tie yourself in knots carving the oarsmen in one piece when you will be casting them anyway? Thought of casting them in pieces so that, when you assemble them, they can all vary slightly in pose?
  18. druxey
    Yes, Mitch was a real mensch. I, too, was shocked to read of his death especially at a relatively young age. He was a very friendly and laid-back man. It's obvious from reading the above that he will be much missed. my condolences to his family and friends.
  19. druxey
    Try your local medical supply house.
  20. druxey
    Yup, regular PVA, Mark.
  21. druxey
    I use a glass container - actually a jam jar for Sparex. Leave the lid loose while heating though!
  22. druxey
    Tape is good, but I find thread and dilute white glue easier to handle. To adjust the line of the thread, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down as required.
  23. druxey
    A small hot plate that keeps your coffee hot works just as well for Sparex. Just don't absent-mindedly take a sip!
  24. druxey
    Nicely done primer, Greg!
  25. druxey
    Dobri!

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