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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I find that a shallower cone angle improves the lay-up of the line. Looking good, though!
  2. I think that the arrangement would be similar to your illustration, right hand side, across the box. The access would be from the inboard side, with only a single head per compartment.
  3. Welcome back to wood, as well as metal!
  4. You will also find bending techniques Chuck uses as well as other ways to bend planks in the tutorials. I haven't used pins or clamps in years!
  5. I believe that the compartments for the heads continued inside the boxes or sponsons, bringing them closer over the shafts. Another consideration I seem to recall from reading years ago was the issue of trapped air inside the sponsons if they were too tight to the wheels.
  6. Go to the pinned planking tutorials on this site, shortgrass! All you need to know is there for you and everybody else.
  7. Slog: I have just stumbled across your log for the first time. Superb work! I'd click 'like' on every entry, but it would take too long. Please assume that I did click each one.
  8. Superb machine work, Michael! However, I thought that that was Mr. Woods in the photo, not Mr. Brown. They do look alike though...
  9. Oh, they know all right! Nice progress, Mark. Provided that your planks are consistent in thickness, there is no reason for that sliver to be uneven.
  10. If I may add; it is an established fact that the heads were often on each side of the boxes on side paddle steamers.
  11. Yup, those dozuki saws are scary sharp, and I've the scar to prove it!
  12. I think that the clue is/are the small deckhouses attached to the inboard portions of the wheel boxes fore and aft. These are, I believe, the heads that discharge directly down inboard of the wheels.
  13. Quit once you start seeing more than one mainbrace.... Congratulations, Grand-dad!
  14. Not quite. Lime wood is tilia and basswood is tilia americana. I've used boih and the European tilia is a little harder and somewhat less 'fuzzy'.
  15. You will experience frustration tying hairs to a toothpick, because you will never get the hairs to come to a good point (which a quality sable will) and the hairs will not have the correct 'spring', which sable does. Yes, the top quality brushes are not cheap, but with care will last decades. I have 20 year (or older) brushes still working well for me!
  16. Usually when the sails are furled or taken down, the yards are in their lowered positions.
  17. Interesting method of creating the rocker on the bottom of your dory, Gary!
  18. I'm sorry to read of this gentleman's passing. My condolences to his family and to you as well, Vince.
  19. Years ago I made my own duplicator with a sharp wedge-shaped tracer and similarly ground tool bit. Even with solidly built geometry the results were never more than mediocre for small parts like cannon. There was still lateral deflection. I had much better success with turning a master pattern, then casting the parts. I concur with wefalk and Greg.
  20. Fascinating constructional details, Clare. I'm always impressed by the accuracy (as well as the complexity) of the wood joints used in Japanese carpentry.
  21. Get the best quality sable brush for this kind of work, Steven: a Winsor and Newton Series 7 size 00 or even 000 will do it. Another excellent brushmaker is Rosemary & Co. Even with the brush that you are using, the decoration looks really nice.
  22. So many models do not have the knee tapered. Nicely done.
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