druxey
-
Posts
12,967 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Dowmer: actually many contemporary models show the figure with head turned to starboard to a greater or lesser degree (lions excepted). It's later half-length ones that look straight ahead. So the casting resembles the original model quite closely, except that the head there is tilted as well as turned.- 1,784 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
It is very doubtful that Victory of 1765 had brass ordnance. The previous Victory of 1737 certainly did - she was fully armed with brass - but all that was lost when she went down. (Perhaps this has created the confusion, with two ships of the same name?) Very few guns have been salvaged: most are on the sea bed. The cost of brass vs iron was considerable, and the government was not about to sink large amounts into more brass!
-
Sorry to read of your family concerns and hope the outcome is favorable, Ab. Lovely evocative work yet again; those figures on the jacht are delightful, especially the gentleman smoking a clay pipe!
-
Yes, I use Humbrol; but any enamel paint will work. I've not tried acrylic paint, so can't speak to that.
-
Very impressive paperwork. Congrats on completing what was obviously a very challenging model, Dan. So, what's next?
-
You could also try a little sanding sealer on the end grain before using dilute paint. That should stop bleeding. Unfortunately, this trick won't work for stain, as sealer will block it!
-
I agree with Y.T. Paint the paper or card to match the wood color.
-
Mastermind game board by nikbud - FINISHED - Wood
druxey replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Ah. Thank you for the explanation, Chris. -
One way to avoid carving up your fingers is to mount the blank piece on a backing block of wood. I use PVA glue to hold it. That way, fingers are well out of the way and one has good control while carving. When the complete, I soak the carving and block in isopropanol (rubbing alcohol 99%) to release it.
-
You really should consider writing the book as well, Tom! it's a great yarn you are spinning.
- 18 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- chaperon
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Mastermind game board by nikbud - FINISHED - Wood
druxey replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice, but how do you play this game? -
Yes, Mark, the lead was usually carried over the bolster or naval hood in a sort of semi-circular tongue shape. The outer edge of the bolster was usually radiused off, which is not shown in your Bellona hawse hole photo. above. I found that, using a flat sable brush, I could paint the port edges quite neatly by putting the brush against the surface to be painted, then drawing the brush toward me in a single movement. That way, no paint should land on the outside of the planks. On the rare instances it did (usually due to an overloaded brush!) I waited for the paint to dry, then scraped it carefully off with a scalpel blade. See the photo and judge for yourself.
-
If the floats are identical, you could always make mold of it and cast the second one in resin.
-
A lovely model of an ugly character!
-
Very nice, Chris! Love the hatchets.
-
Brilliant weathering, Gary! You said: "Weathered vertical surfaces typically display less damage at the top than at the bottom." Too true! Today I hacked out 6" of rotted wood at the bottom of an outside door frame and am replacing it. The house is only seven years old.
-
Mini Lathe recommendations?
druxey replied to jfinan's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use my small lathes (a Unimat DB200 and a Boley watchmakers') for turning belaying pins, master patterns for cannon, parrel trucks, deadeyes and mast coats. Never for masts and spars. They are always done by the old-fashioned four-square, eight-square then rounding off where needed using sandpaper strips. As pointed out, you'd need a longer bed lathe anyway, and your dollars (or whatever currency you use) could go to buy a lot of other tools or wood instead! -
Quite remarkable, Danny.
-
I believe that, on many vessels of this size, where there were compound curved entryway covers over the companion to the not-so-great Great Cabin, these were of copper. The RMG model of Speedwell has such a copper hood. Lead would be too soft for this purpose.
-
Interesting method of finding plumb! As a professor of mine used to say "If it works, it works".
-
Well, it comes in from aft. Also, this is the arrangement seen on other ships, so must have worked.
-
I can't help thinking that the shipwrights cheated the preventer plate up a few inches to avoid the seam. The area above gun deck port #11 looks pretty crowded! That the lower end of the plate is secured below the wale is not unusual: you will need to 'kink' the plate to match the contour of the side. I had to do this on Polyphemus years ago.
-
Blackening the guns?
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Please see my comments about cannon on your other thread, Dafi. -
A model of the ketch-rigged sloop Speedwell, 1752, in the RMG collection has pin rails lashed to the lower shrouds. No sign of shroud cleats on this model, though. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66296.html Love the term 'turnpinns', Mark!
Our Emblem ®
