druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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That seems to be your answer, although I like the typically French comment; "It should be noted that these could equally be used to hoist barrels of wine.”- 263 replies
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- nave tonda
- round ship
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Very, very impressive rigging techniques!
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That drawing shows a trunnion-style carronade, rather than the lug type, on a light carriage.
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Which magazine are you referring to, Tasmanian?
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No date, but probably the late 1790's. It was apparently experimentally used in Wolverine, ex Rattler, in 1798. (Text, page 207).
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The nearest carriage I can find is in Caruana, Volume II on page 208. It has a two-part trucked (wheeled) carriage. All four trucks are 6" in diameter. The lower part, 4' 0" long, is wedge shaped, higher at the aft end. The upper part, also wedge shaped but with the narrow end aft, can slide up this inclined plane. This part has conventional steps. The illustration shows a 24 lb carronade mounted. This non-recoil carriage was invented by the same Captain Schank that invented the sliding keel.
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I'm sorry to read of your situation, Mark. I hope that things will improve for you sooner rather than later. In the meantime, my best wishes to you.
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Dowmer: actually many contemporary models show the figure with head turned to starboard to a greater or lesser degree (lions excepted). It's later half-length ones that look straight ahead. So the casting resembles the original model quite closely, except that the head there is tilted as well as turned.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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It is very doubtful that Victory of 1765 had brass ordnance. The previous Victory of 1737 certainly did - she was fully armed with brass - but all that was lost when she went down. (Perhaps this has created the confusion, with two ships of the same name?) Very few guns have been salvaged: most are on the sea bed. The cost of brass vs iron was considerable, and the government was not about to sink large amounts into more brass!
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Sorry to read of your family concerns and hope the outcome is favorable, Ab. Lovely evocative work yet again; those figures on the jacht are delightful, especially the gentleman smoking a clay pipe!
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Yes, I use Humbrol; but any enamel paint will work. I've not tried acrylic paint, so can't speak to that.
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Very impressive paperwork. Congrats on completing what was obviously a very challenging model, Dan. So, what's next?
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You could also try a little sanding sealer on the end grain before using dilute paint. That should stop bleeding. Unfortunately, this trick won't work for stain, as sealer will block it!
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I agree with Y.T. Paint the paper or card to match the wood color.
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Mastermind game board by nikbud - FINISHED - Wood
druxey replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Ah. Thank you for the explanation, Chris. -
One way to avoid carving up your fingers is to mount the blank piece on a backing block of wood. I use PVA glue to hold it. That way, fingers are well out of the way and one has good control while carving. When the complete, I soak the carving and block in isopropanol (rubbing alcohol 99%) to release it.
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You really should consider writing the book as well, Tom! it's a great yarn you are spinning.
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- chaperon
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Mastermind game board by nikbud - FINISHED - Wood
druxey replied to nikbud's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice, but how do you play this game? -
Yes, Mark, the lead was usually carried over the bolster or naval hood in a sort of semi-circular tongue shape. The outer edge of the bolster was usually radiused off, which is not shown in your Bellona hawse hole photo. above. I found that, using a flat sable brush, I could paint the port edges quite neatly by putting the brush against the surface to be painted, then drawing the brush toward me in a single movement. That way, no paint should land on the outside of the planks. On the rare instances it did (usually due to an overloaded brush!) I waited for the paint to dry, then scraped it carefully off with a scalpel blade. See the photo and judge for yourself.
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If the floats are identical, you could always make mold of it and cast the second one in resin.
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A lovely model of an ugly character!
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Very nice, Chris! Love the hatchets.
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Brilliant weathering, Gary! You said: "Weathered vertical surfaces typically display less damage at the top than at the bottom." Too true! Today I hacked out 6" of rotted wood at the bottom of an outside door frame and am replacing it. The house is only seven years old.
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Mini Lathe recommendations?
druxey replied to jfinan's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use my small lathes (a Unimat DB200 and a Boley watchmakers') for turning belaying pins, master patterns for cannon, parrel trucks, deadeyes and mast coats. Never for masts and spars. They are always done by the old-fashioned four-square, eight-square then rounding off where needed using sandpaper strips. As pointed out, you'd need a longer bed lathe anyway, and your dollars (or whatever currency you use) could go to buy a lot of other tools or wood instead!
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