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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Judging from the model you've successfully completed, you already have two necessary skills; 'stick-to-it-iveness' and carefulness. Another more ambitious model will not only exercise those skills but develop new ones. I'd say, go for it! There are many folk who can help clarify any questions you might have, so there is a good support resource right here on MSW. The only criterion is that you have an affection for the subject of your build.
  2. Interesting 'mod' to your saw, Kurt! I like it.
  3. I'd like to draw your attention to a new book on the history for the use of blue on ships. This book, now in English, by Joachim Mullerschon is available through: http://www.modellbau-muellerschoen.de/buch-en.htm Titled The colour blue in historic shipbuilding, originally Die Farbe Blau im historischen Schiffbau - von der Antike bis zur Neuzeit, This book, lavishly illustrated in color, traces the use of different blue pigments from antiquity to the present as used on ships. Chemistry, social history and geography are just some of the topics covered by this monograph. I will leave it for someone else to review critically in detail, as - full disclosure - I was the English language editor of this volume.
  4. Looks good. Will you put a long handle on the mini-drill? My first 'serious' model was a 64 gun ship, fully planked at 1:48 scale. All the treenail holes were drilled by hand using a pin vise. I'd never do that again!
  5. Looks very good, I can't deny. I should have remembered that you've mastered every material under the sun!
  6. Chris: stupid question, perhaps, but I'll ask anyway. Is the blade mounted in the reverse direction? How do I know to ask this question? Don't ask!
  7. Do the cushions for the model need to be of leather? I imagine carving them might give a very satisfactory result.
  8. I'm sorry for the loss of your friend, Rob. Your model continues to impress me, especially at that scale.
  9. Michael: those are camouflaged funnels! Dan: she is looking very nice indeed. I love the dazzle paintwork.
  10. Ed, You must have mixed feelings as you approach the end of your magnum opus. She looks magnificent!
  11. Well done for doing the planking over again! It's a hard decision, but one I'm sure you are glad of now.
  12. I know that the strakes of top and butt under the guns was adopted at some point in the 18th century, but exactly when is the question. Plank butts always fall on the beams, not the ledges. (Most ledges are only 3" or 4" wide, so there is insufficient landing to secure the ends on.) Also, avoid butts in the binding strakes opposite hatch openings.
  13. I can see that one drop strake is needed, but it was the second one I was referring to. Sorry if I was not clear! See sketch below. There should be a nice easy run of strakes to the bow.
  14. Aiee! Good save, though. Hopefully the second pour will be after using the release agent, Mark.
  15. A nice slow pour from one corner of the mold usually ensures no entrapment of air bubbles. Hope it works out!
  16. Cockbilled yards are when the yards are tilted in the vertical rather than horizontal plane. In past times, yards acockbill signified the same thing as a flag at half staff; a sign of mourning.
  17. You might consider ending the garboard just forward of your pencil line so that it does not end at the keel/stem joint. See how many strakes will comfortably fit above that into the stem without needing a drop strake.
  18. I agree that this style of gun was a very early one and abandoned, as Dave mentions, by the early 1600's.
  19. Nice save on that first piece, Kevin! However, if you had used PVA, rubbing alcohol would have made removal of the part easy. Was there a particular reason you decided to use epoxy?
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