druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Intrepid (or more likely foolhardy!) newbie
druxey replied to SottoVoce's topic in New member Introductions
Beautiful restorations, sotto voce! -
Glad the problem is solved!
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Looks pretty good to me, except for that one larger gap- but you've solved that issue.
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Enjoy your trip/vacation. Will you visit the Niagara/Toronto area? Remember the Art Gallery of Ontario Thomson ship model collection if you are up this way!
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Mark: I soften old hacksaw blades by heating cherry red (propane torch) and air cooling. I use escapement files and razor saw to cut the profiles I need. I don't worry about re-hardening and tempering. The softer steel cuts well and stays sharp enough for a long time. (This is on Castello.) If I do need to touch up the cutter, I simply stone it flat. Easy!
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Sweet engineering, Michael!
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I lost a lot of good photos with my last computer, but here is an example.
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Look on the site: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!cbrowse then search '26 foot pinnace plan' and '19 foot longboat plan'. You can download the plan, then re-size it using the scale on the plan to fit your scale.
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My method of false spice is to unravel the line for a little way, tease out the yarns on a flat surface, then cut them on a long diagonal. Take the line around the block, put a dab of white glue on the frayed end, then pinch and twirl the frayed end against the line at the end of the block to create a tapered false splice. It takes a few tries to master the technique, but gives good results quickly.
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Probably the fiberglass coatings actually accelerated the rot! In my experience, conservation is much more complex (also read 'expensive') when other well-meaning but non-knowledgeable folk have previously 'restored' an artefact or painting.
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Glad it's working out, Mark. My first attempts at making cheeks took forever with serious scrapbox contributions. Each subsequent set has become easier and quicker to make. I hope that's of some consolation!
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It certainly looks that way. Ilhan.
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Well done, Bedford!
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Bob Cleek: Smalt (another blue pigment) was readily available and economical prior to the invention of Prussian Blue. But we digress.
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Relate the thickness to the width of the cheek side arm (its moulded way) below it. That may be more a reliable guide.
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We feel your pain, Mark... It's going to be an awkward fix. Good luck with it.
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That is an interesting way to distinguish the owner that I was not aware of. Nice work seeing your version develop, Clare.
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Easy, eh, Michael? Please make a dozen more for Mark, and then another dozen for me. Just joking.
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Looking lovely!
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No rule that I know about, Mark. I eyeballed what looked reasonable compared with planking expansions that I've seen. An example of this is at: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81960.html
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Lovely work, as usual! Your joinery is a pleasure to look at.
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I too use Fiebings dye for blocks, like Ron. I polish my blocks with a little Renaissance wax for a dull shine.
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