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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Brilliant, Gary! That hose is draped so naturally and your weathering is first rate, as usual.
  2. So, Rob; in short, you've been a slacker this summer. At least you've admitted it. Seriously, the renovation looks great. Do you have a 'before' photo?
  3. I'll ask them, the next time I see them ;). Perhaps while this stylized framing method demonstrated the run of the joint lines, it saved time and materials in constructing the model.
  4. But why would contemporary model-makers bother to show complex joints there if a simple scarph was actually used? I'd put my money on a boxing joint, Allan!
  5. Franklin, Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750, shows boxing joints on a 4th rate of 1690 (figure 13, page 15), Bredah, 1692 (page 16) and a medley of boxing joint variations on page 18. Definitely a boxing joint is a reasonable assumption!
  6. My first serious power tool was a scroll saw (DeWalt) nearly 20 years ago. It was an expensive purchase, but one I've never regretted. As for cleanness of cut, it depends on the thickness of stock and fineness of blade. Rule of thumb? at least three teeth in the thickness of the stock being cut at any moment.
  7. You might want to look at planking techniques articles on MSW that are 'pinned': look in the section https://modelshipworld.com/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/
  8. Well, Patrick, your workshop will have plenty of light! Is it heated and cooled?
  9. Just catching up. Looking great! Thank you for explaining that you actually use split leather.
  10. I love Weber's clarinet concerto...but we digress. Why tie yourself in knots carving the oarsmen in one piece when you will be casting them anyway? Thought of casting them in pieces so that, when you assemble them, they can all vary slightly in pose?
  11. Yes, Mitch was a real mensch. I, too, was shocked to read of his death especially at a relatively young age. He was a very friendly and laid-back man. It's obvious from reading the above that he will be much missed. my condolences to his family and friends.
  12. Try your local medical supply house.
  13. I use a glass container - actually a jam jar for Sparex. Leave the lid loose while heating though!
  14. Tape is good, but I find thread and dilute white glue easier to handle. To adjust the line of the thread, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down as required.
  15. A small hot plate that keeps your coffee hot works just as well for Sparex. Just don't absent-mindedly take a sip!
  16. Nicely done primer, Greg!
  17. The gammoning slot is lower than you show on your drawing. It is definitely never on the standard; the strain would tend to pull that piece up. The only hole in the standard is close to the stem, and it is for the main stay collar. The slot will be between the head timbers below the upper cheek. It is probably located between head timbers 2 and 3. This will necessitate modifying the trail board design. (The original draftsman was obviously not a fine artist!) If you are not already aware, fine craftsman that Hahn was, much on his models is stylized. The actual construction of the knee of the head, standard and extension piece (omitted entirely by Hahn) is shown in several books, including Goodwin and Antscherl.
  18. Nice, but is the drawing of a Danish or English cutter? There were national differences.
  19. A terrific model, Kortes. Very well done!
  20. En anglais, SVP, Yves. Private messages can always be in your first language of choice!
  21. You folk are being spoon-fed by Chuck, so don't complain or whine! In lining off he has done all the work for you. Just follow the mark-out and hear him. Well done, Chuck.
  22. Now, those are comprehensive responses, gentlemen!
  23. First rate! I can almost hear the rust nibbling away at the metal.
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