druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
But ain't that the interesting part? -
It's like the articles I used to see in Model Engineer when I was a kid! Nice save and beautiful machine work.
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Bruce: I agree with you that that saw is the best way to cut wood - but not fingers! I hope the damage was minimal.
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Tailing deck beams
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dovetail, I believe, Allan. See French style builds for this treatment of deck beams and clamps. -
With all due respect to Allan, I still prefer the rigidity provided by a hacksaw blade myself.
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A very neatly planked hull, Chuck. Well done.
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- winchelsea
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YT: the difference is that carbon paper is wax based, transfer paper isn't.
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Y.T's trick was to use a new, very sharp scalpel blade. I've done the same thing. I pre-painted the paper (stretched,as I was using acrylic paint), traced the outlines down using white transfer paper (traces wash off afterwards), cut the letters out and glued them on.
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On the BBC website, a new discovery: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-hampshire-50102210
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I don't use a scraper holder at all, Mark. The length of hacksaw blade (teeth filed off!) is held in both hands like a spokeshave. You have much better control than the X-Acto blade in a handle approach. I also (where feasible) rubber cement the strip of molding to be shaped down on a backing board. This acts as a depth stop as well as securing the part.
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If you had asked this question 30 years ago, the answer would have been simple. Since the introduction of graphics programs on computers, Letraset became a dinosaur. I doubt if you can find any these days. In any case, old Letraset tended to craze and lose adhesive strength. Y.T's solution is an elegant one. You could start by printing off a computer-generated version of the lettering as he did. Alternatively, use a fine artist's brush and paint....
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Welcome back, Alan!
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Welcome here, André! As Mark said...
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Perhaps I'll reconsider....
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Very impressive; I'll order a dozen!
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You are having much too much fun with PhotoShop effects!
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Intrepid (or more likely foolhardy!) newbie
druxey replied to SottoVoce's topic in New member Introductions
Beautiful restorations, sotto voce! -
Glad the problem is solved!
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Looks pretty good to me, except for that one larger gap- but you've solved that issue.
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Enjoy your trip/vacation. Will you visit the Niagara/Toronto area? Remember the Art Gallery of Ontario Thomson ship model collection if you are up this way!
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- sidewheeler
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Mark: I soften old hacksaw blades by heating cherry red (propane torch) and air cooling. I use escapement files and razor saw to cut the profiles I need. I don't worry about re-hardening and tempering. The softer steel cuts well and stays sharp enough for a long time. (This is on Castello.) If I do need to touch up the cutter, I simply stone it flat. Easy!
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Sweet engineering, Michael!
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