druxey

From the description, a clump block is what was earlier termed a 'thick' block. There were regularly proportioned blocks, as well as 'thin' blocks. The latter were, as implied, thinner for their length and were reeved with a lighter line than the regular version. Presumably 'thick' or 'clump' blocks carried lines of larger size than their 'normal' counterparts.

Nicely put, Mark!

You extend the lines in a smooth curve until they reach the bow rabbet.

The usual way to use rubber cement is to coat both surfaces to be glued, allow the solvent to dry, then press the parts together like contact cement. Until you press firmly, there is wiggle room to adjust.  A piece of crepe rubber works just as well as your finger!

A word of caution: after some years the rubber deteriorates and turns the card brown as well as loses adhesiveness. 

Very impressive. Would dampening the houtbord help prevent it splitting while shaping it?

The models I saw did not have any moulded shape under the drip edge, Mark.

Nice internal strops, Michael!

Mark: a small point about the knuckle moulding (between lower and upper counters): the lower edge of this moulding sits about an inch below the lower counter plank surface to form a drip edge. I discovered this from examining contemporary museum models. In the last photo it looks to sit about an inch above the planking.

Good suggestion, Ed. Also, might I recommend respiratory protection when dusting with talc?

Very informative and educational, as well as entertaining, Ab! Thank you.

Congratulations on your anniversary and a happy, healthy, year ahead, Alan!

Looks terrific, Michael. Take care when working aloft!

The lower photo (repeated) looks about right. I believe that it was Longridge who stated that this troublesome piece was shaped from solid rather than steam bent. I found that I had to slide that triangular piece in from above (if the hull is right side up!) and aft, down and forward, for a nice fit.

That seems weird! As you say, there is something odd going on.

The kit is just trying to give the impression that Allan's posting shows. The 'netting' in the photo is not it! 

Impressive, Dan! Well done. Aren't you going to build the rest of the Yamaha models as well?  

Brass often has a lacquer coating. Remove this with acetone and - voila!

You have been exceedingly productive, Alex! Beautiful hull forms and details.

If you are using nothing but straight, parallel strips, you will probably not only have difficulties but will be unhappy with the results. The only surface you can satisfactorily plank with straight strips is the side of a house. Boats aren't that shape, unfortunately. However, it's your model and your decision!

All graphic programs have a big learning curve. Might the better route be to draw manually? Handling a long, flexible drafting curve is a much quicker learning process!

Please read any (or all!) of the planking tutorials posted on this site. They should give you a clear idea of how to proceed.

I agree that, with a cast gun, boring the barrel accurately is tricky. I made a molded fixture to hold the guns consistently vertical and centered in a machine vice so that the drill entered concentric to each gun.

Good question, Dirk. The English also made repairs and replacements easier by through-bolts that were forelocked. How early this practice began, I'm not sure. 

I use the MicroMark lead-free pewter. As for all casting metals, you ned to skim off the dross before pouring. I can see that the urn-shaped opening might create a bottleneck/backup, allowing cooling to occur before complete filling of your mold.

If low melting point is an issue, there is always Wood's Metal - it flows at below the boiling point of water! I've no idea what blackening agent might work on it, though. Cerrosafe is a non-toxic alternative.

Congratulations on a fine result, Thunder. I remember seeing advertisements in Model Shipwright back in the '80s and wondered if the kit was as good as the photo in their ad. It is.