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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. My own method for dealing with ratlines so that shrouds do not 'hourglass' is to tie every fifth ratline first, then every third one and finally all the remaining ones. By not progressively working every one up in sequence, this has always worked well for me.
  2. I wonder why Jupiter's figure was described as having un visage triste (a sad face)? Jupiter was god of thunder and lightning - very appropriate for a warship. Also, the mythical salamander was reputed to breathe fire (think dragon). All very martial!
  3. Oh, yes, indeed. Things can sure come back to bite one later if one is not very careful!
  4. Apart from the slight splintering, that fixed block looks pretty good, Alan. What wood are you using for these?
  5. Lovely looking! Nice progress on fitting all those finicky joints.
  6. Welcome aboard, James!
  7. Beams located less than 0.5mm too high? I'm disappointed in you, Mark! Seriously, that is pretty impressive.
  8. Ouch! Quite the object lesson.
  9. Again, congratulations for putting the more unusual in front of your public, Chris. It's amazing the variety of smaller vessels that plans are available for from that period.
  10. There is little available on carronades mounted on the 'outboard principle'. Some years ago I researched these mounts from the early 1780's. Contemporary illustrations are reproduced in Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance 1523-1875, Volume II, pages 195 et seq. (The actual model's carronades were cast in pewter.)
  11. I believe from previous comments on MSW that this device is a snare and a delusion! One needs to rig shrouds the conventional way - on the model itself.
  12. Some thought on your dilemma: One, is that really lime wood? The appearance is very different to lime I've used in the past, where the grain is almost invisible. Two, your workmanship is fine - that is not the issue. Three, I note that the grain on some of your futtocks does not run at a tangent to the piece (e.g. photo below 'glue in with titebond'). Avoid cross-grain as much as possible. Four, fit temporary cross-spalls across the toptimbers to maintain designed width. This was done on full sized frames.
  13. Has the wire been annealed (softened) by heating to red heat and allowed to cool? It won't 'mushroom' if still hard.
  14. Clare: The reason for my identifying the model easily is that, for the past four years, I've been studying Stuart Royal yachts very closely. I've seen examples or photos of every contemporary model still extant, plus many paintings and drawings of these. In fact, there is now a study model of the original 1683 Fubbs (not the 1724 rebuild!) and a SeaWatch book on her will be published in due course (shameless promotion). In addition, a fellow researcher in England and I are working on a book that covers all 25 Stuart Royal yachts in detail. Now, aren't you sorry that you asked!
  15. Håkan is right; some of the models you see are built by veteran professionals. Take heart; your work so far is excellent.
  16. There may be a terminology issue: the fashion piece is part of the framing at the stern, under the planking. Perhaps you meant the quarter piece. That attaches aft over the planking above the wale.
  17. The short spar at the right is the gaff for the mail sail, foreshortened. On the jib sails, lowered, I can see what appear to be wood block-like attachments for the halliard. These are Dutch yachts, of course, not English ones.
  18. It is a contemporary model with MODERN rigging: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66339 No contemporary painting shows these spreaders.
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