druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Instead of tallow-based white stuff, a pitch-based black compound was used on some ships instead. -
I suspect that the 'only to the waterline' version was for new ships on the ways. It would be far easier to paint the white stuff using the lower edge of the wale as a guide later on. Also, there was 'black stuff'....
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Look at contemporary paintings: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-11926 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-12537 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-15235 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-12551 Then take your pick!
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HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - FINISHED - scale 1:56
druxey replied to matiz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
And do those rollers actually roll? Terrific! -
It takes a little time to learn how to coax wood into the shape that you want. Obviously you are learning fast! And we all need to use a little rubbing alcohol from time to time, no matter how many years we've been at it.
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Well done, Sal!
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Good progress! Had you considered using a drawplate for forming treenails?
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Nice to see some progress, however incremental, Marc. When my daughter was young, no model-making occurred for ten years. You are doing much better than that.
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Chacun à son goût! - Each to their own taste. The individual style of different builders is what makes things interesting. It would be dull indeed if we all built in exactly the same way with the same amount of detail - or lack of it. P.S. Decks were never treenailed to my knowledge, but nailed and plugged, which was almost invisible. However, some builders like to show fastenings. I'm not defending the practice, but if folk like it, let 'em do it!
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I'm so sorry that you were scammed, Aleksandr. I've tried milling such moldings and still prefer the control of using a scraper that has been shaped from a scrap piece of hacksaw blade. Using a mill sometimes 'eats' the work as one feeds it through! Perhaps this was a lucky accident for you after all.
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Glad to read that all is going well, Keith. A friend's Admiral recently had cataracts removed. She was quite indignant at the sight of her wrinkles in the mirror. She is 86.
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Those smaller splices are ridiculously good....
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Certainly is a very wide lion!
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Fascinating history, gentlemen! Thank you for this.
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You are forgiven, Glen! Although that brush looks a little sad....
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I hate to see good brushes abused that way but, when needs must.... If using oil based paint, another technique is to use sanding sealer on the area, then paint. Any spot of unwanted paint can easily be scraped off when thoroughly set.
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Absolutely nothing wrong with lo-tech; it's how the old-time ship model-makers did it! Very nice and clean work, Erik.
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Joking aside, please note that early ships did not have continuous decks. They were stepped so as to avoid cutting ports into the wales, as seen in post #10, 'Santa Maria".
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To 'read' ships' plans is a study in itself. Without a working knowledge it is easy to get things confused, such as internal/external planking expansion plans. Perhaps it is easier to grasp the difference in longitudinal sheer and deck curves by studying photographs of contemporary models. The sheer of the wales and outer plank is easily seen. The line of ports will follow the sheer of the decks. Usually these cross each other, particularly aft. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66344 Orford, 1698 That said, there are exceptions! My current model's deck and wale sheer happen to be identical! (This is a Dutch-built, French designed ship of 1778/9.)
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Drafting Frames
druxey replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Scantlings will be a good guide for any ship of the same size and period. Allan's book is an invaluable source for measurements. -
Well, congratulations, Chuck. Another new venture for you! Are you ready for your close-up?
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Best wishes for a brilliant result, Keith.
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There are two single frames. the 'dead flat' and 'dead flat 1'. Both are, in fact, dead flat, but the labelling distinguishes them, as well as the fact that the joints are staggered one from another. So, the 'dead flat' starts with a pair of first futtocks and the 'dead flat 1' with a floor, as shown in the framing elevation. There should be a pattern for 'dead flat' as well as 'dead flat 1' which you've posted above.
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