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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Please read the planking tutorial: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf It will answer all your questions!
  2. Rubber cement will not distort paper or tracing vellum as will any glue with water content.
  3. There are several tutorials on this site on how to plank. Any of these will answer your question, as well as Chuck's contribution: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
  4. Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.
  5. Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!
  6. Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)
  7. Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.
  8. Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate. You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.
  9. Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.
  10. Even dry docks would need a slight slope for drainage, would they not?
  11. In the 18th century British lexicon, railings at the ends of decks were referred to as 'breastwork'.
  12. And check out the reef points!
  13. I have an identical tack hammer. It is circa 1940 and was my father's. I still love using it; perfect heft and balance. But we digress.
  14. I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings. If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.
  15. I've seen both closed and open varieties in contemporary models. The closed balcony balustrade would be stronger.
  16. If the antique wood is a little brittle, you may be able to restore pliability as the veneer folk do: a very dilute solution of glycerin in water. Spray the cut strips and let them dry between sheets of plain newsprint under weight for a couple of days. (It may take longer in regions of higher humidity as it takes longer for the water content to evaporate out.)
  17. Perhaps such discussion - which can be valuable - should be on a separate thread and not a build log?
  18. The safe choice would be natural wood. However, light grey or pale gray-green might be other choices to consider. Usually the 'red' was actually red ochre; a brownish red.
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