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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The best possibility is acetone - ventilate well, please! Sanding is a bad idea as there are bands and rims on the funnel to deal with - lots of fine corners.
  2. druxey
    Instead of pins, would small rubber bands work?
  3. druxey
    Opinion? Strip all the paint and repaint (with airbrush!) to match the original color. Keep photographic record of these archaeological stratae to go with your treatment report. Overpainting yet again is not a pretty option.
  4. druxey
    This sounds like a very versatile tool, Wefalck! At low setting, have you used it for bending wood?
  5. druxey
    That is very impressive for such a tool, William.
  6. druxey
    Time taken on this part of the model is time well spent, Mike. The more symmetrical you can make it, the better. Interesting saw blades. I wonder who is the manufacturer/distributor?
  7. druxey
    You are welcome. I remembered watching copper and brass turning color as I heated them.
  8. druxey
    Would gentle heating of the wire 'tint' it?
  9. druxey
    Your model is looking lovely Mike. Having the correct workbench and seat heights are important!
  10. druxey
    Interesting approach to the problem of adding bulwarks. Looks like it worked very well, Pat.
  11. druxey
    I suspect so, except they might be beefier around a large main hatch. These provide integrity between the deck and sides of a vessel and keep it all together.
  12. druxey
    Plans for smaller vessels rarely if ever showed knees. I would use a rule of thumb for the athwartship arms of the lodging knees and make them about 1/6th the length of the midship beams. That deck plan you posted is of the 90-gun ship Impregnable - not the best choice for comparison!
  13. druxey
    Yes, that rotation is also what I meant, Michael. If those pins are headless that should make it much easier. You would not have to push them home.
  14. druxey
    No waste of time if you arrived at a workable solution, Tony!
  15. druxey
    I agree with your reconstruction of the original sequence of construction, Michael. Can you partially insert the 'B' pins so that the side wall can be moved outward at the top, the lifeboat deck secured, then the 'B' pins driven home before driving the 'A' pins? You'd need a specially bent tool and dental inspection mirror to drive the 'B' pins home, but that should be a piece of cake for you!
  16. druxey
    Maurys: are you sure that you are showing us the correct deck plan? What I see above is one of a much larger man-of-war.
  17. druxey
    Nice to see you back again, Christian. The work so far looks lovely. As Greg points out, the scores in the rising wood will locate your square frames positively and accurately. It's too bad no-one will ever see them later on!
  18. druxey
    Very nice and methodical work, Michael. When you have finished up, no-one other than your MSW followers will have any idea of the work that will have gone into the restoration.
  19. druxey
    Glad healing continues well, Michael. Love the classy wood base on Mark III.
  20. druxey
    It certainly is a gorgeous piece of 'art'. Would a knurled screw on the side of the cylindrical body, instead of the one needing a tommy bar underneath, be more easily accessible?
  21. druxey
    Nice going, although I can't imagine how one could carve that sitting figure without a stick or some other 'handle' to hold or grip it safely! The mushy card bedding is a neat technique.
  22. druxey
    I think you are correct in omitting any spritsail as not seen in contemporary images; although it would have been useful had there been one!
  23. druxey
    What kind of 'grime'? Is it oily in nature? If so, perhaps a little isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) may lift it. However, if the 'grime' has soaked into the wood, this may be ineffective.
  24. druxey
    Can you carefully remove a little of the overpaint and determine the original paint color beneath? If you can do that and then match that color, I would be strongly tempted to strip the funnels and paint them to imitate the original finish. ('Author's intention', as it were.) This is especially true if the overpainting was poorly executed. Of course, you will keep a photographic record of the different stages if you decide to do so. A standard Kodak color card included in the photographs will help calibrate color when viewed later.
  25. druxey
    I don't think plank ends were ever left loose and hanging, Maury.

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