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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Very useful techniques and advice - particularly the last bit! Owch. Thanks, Paul.
  2. As for lighting, if you are doing serious carving, you need a directional light, preferably point source. The headlamp type is not suitable as the light will be head-on (sorry!) to the carving and you won't see how the light and shadows interplay from the surfaces when it is installed.
  3. Shaping up nicely now, Ron. Those hawse timbers and cants are a big challenge to do. I can't image doing them at full size!
  4. Ah, the learning curve. Some of use needed several attempts before we 'got it'. The up side is that you'll get it right first time on subsequent models.
  5. Beautifully presented, but I find it looks a little too high or deep. Can this be adjusted (see photo of the real thing)?
  6. Most, if not all of us, don't fully realize what we are getting ourselves into until long after committing to a project. This applies to renovations as well as models.
  7. Your attention to the run of plank at the bow is so important; so many models have the planking rise too high at the extreme bow with the result looking less than graceful. I hope your kit builders take the same care!
  8. Also see: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl For sailmaking using Silkspan.
  9. Glad to be of service to you, gentlemen! Congratulations on publication of a significant article, Rich, and take a big bow.
  10. Siggi: I thought you had labelled the draught Essex of 1741 (Post #875). What ship is that of then?
  11. re the Essex draught: the floor battens retaining bricks are shown in plan view as the double lines. Aft of the stove is a heavy curved bulkhead with two doors. The stove area itself does not appear to be enclosed. No doorway is indicated along the lines of battens.
  12. A smear or squeeze-out of PVA can be dealt with using a damp brush before the glue sets.
  13. A small butane torch creates sufficient heat to anneal brass rod or tube. Be sure to do it on heat proof surface! When peening over, multiple very gentle taps work far better than banging down hard once or twice. This is especially true if the wood is soft, like basswood. Again back up with a very hard surface that will spread the other end of the piece being peened.
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