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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If you can post a photo of the deck paint issue, we might be able to advise you better.
  2. druxey
    Looks great, Ron. And you don't look so bad either!
  3. druxey
    Oil paint, when new, is soluble in alcohol. As the paint film ages - and we are talking decades here - it becomes less soluble. After a century or so, if you are prepared to wait it out....
  4. druxey
    Yes, those knees are much less likely to fracture. The copper bolts look very pleasing, if tedious to do.
  5. druxey
    Henry: Without seeing exactly what you are doing, it is hard to diagnose what your issue is. (It could be one - or more - of a number of problems.) Might I suggest you find a jeweler to teach you the techniques that you need?
  6. druxey
    Nice neat job and presentation, Bryan. Well done!
  7. druxey
    Just catching up. I winced looking at the photos of the Great Entanglement and could not click 'like' on those images. Well done on recovering from that disaster, Vladimir. Carving is such a different skill set from other ship model activities and low relief scrollwork to scale is particularly painstaking. Your results so far look great.
  8. druxey
    Glad your hawse timber issue has been resolved.
  9. druxey
    Gentle heat forming might be worth experimenting with, rather than wetting the sail.
  10. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Al. Looks like a worthwhile model to restore/conserve.
  11. druxey
    Great looking fries, Ron! Neat work so far.
  12. druxey
    Good to see you back, Hellmut. Virtual flying will certainly exercise your cerebral cortex! Thanks for letting us know how you are doing.
  13. druxey
    I agree that, for most things, CA is an abomination. As Allan pointed out, if a part has been properly pre-shaped, no serious clamping will be necessary; just finger pressure. A vet friend of mine does use surgical grade CA - for minor accidents in his workshop.
  14. druxey
    Thank you!, Allan, Two interesting points: One, the transitional deadeye from triangular to circular form and two, the signet labeled 'MT'. It should of course, read 'TM' as the impression would be reversed!
  15. druxey
    I don't know, Allan. Tube water color would be an expensive way to go and contains gum arabic which might inhibit the action. Powdered yellow ochre is inexpensive. For example: https://www.amazon.ca/Icles-Ochre-Natural-Mineral-Pigment/dp/B073NPH91W/ref=sr_1_39?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIj06luu1IY5HeJkdJAAG2XqKJa-BSQcHs5OXBn6kBINFpJnfXpebTBoCRyAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=595964043576&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000745&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=241234424768893934&hvtargid=kwd-792993069&hydadcr=20572_13350556&keywords=ochre+pigment&qid=1677676446&sr=8-39 This will last you a lifetime of soldering! (Or you can re-market it to other modelers in 10cc packages.)
  16. druxey
    No; as the ship rolls in the seas, water will run off just fine! You notice the beam scantlings get lighter on each successive deck. Increased round-up also resists vertical deflection to compensate for decreased cross-section. Clever, weren't they?
  17. druxey
    Roger: there is very little water in the paste and it evaporates rapidly. The ochre must be the inhibitor, I think. Not much is needed, either.
  18. druxey
    Looking very smart with your paint job as well as neat, clean work.
  19. druxey
    The best tip I ever got was from a jeweller. She showed me that one could solder successive joints that were close together without using a heat sink. Simply paint the joint to be protected with a slurry of yellow ochre powder in water. It prevents that joint from melting again.
  20. druxey
    Very sweet joinery, Mike!
  21. druxey
    Looks like you have the beast tamed now, Alan! Aesthetics aside, the increased round-up was not only aesthetic, but also provided a valuable few inches of extra headroom in the cabins as well.
  22. druxey
    Congratulations on reaching another mile stone (or, if you prefer, 'milestone'). Looks like your shop vac will be w*rking soon!
  23. druxey
    Oh, man; that was labor intensive work! Result looks great, though.
  24. druxey
    Definitely PVA for holding delicate pieces: rubber cement is not reliable for this application. I soak the pieces off when complete in a bath of isopropanol ( a jam jar!).
  25. druxey
    That is one square that you don't drop!

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