druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Fascinating history, gentlemen! Thank you for this. -
You are forgiven, Glen! Although that brush looks a little sad....
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I hate to see good brushes abused that way but, when needs must.... If using oil based paint, another technique is to use sanding sealer on the area, then paint. Any spot of unwanted paint can easily be scraped off when thoroughly set.
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Absolutely nothing wrong with lo-tech; it's how the old-time ship model-makers did it! Very nice and clean work, Erik.
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Joking aside, please note that early ships did not have continuous decks. They were stepped so as to avoid cutting ports into the wales, as seen in post #10, 'Santa Maria".
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To 'read' ships' plans is a study in itself. Without a working knowledge it is easy to get things confused, such as internal/external planking expansion plans. Perhaps it is easier to grasp the difference in longitudinal sheer and deck curves by studying photographs of contemporary models. The sheer of the wales and outer plank is easily seen. The line of ports will follow the sheer of the decks. Usually these cross each other, particularly aft. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66344 Orford, 1698 That said, there are exceptions! My current model's deck and wale sheer happen to be identical! (This is a Dutch-built, French designed ship of 1778/9.)
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Drafting Frames
druxey replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Scantlings will be a good guide for any ship of the same size and period. Allan's book is an invaluable source for measurements. -
Well, congratulations, Chuck. Another new venture for you! Are you ready for your close-up?
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Best wishes for a brilliant result, Keith.
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There are two single frames. the 'dead flat' and 'dead flat 1'. Both are, in fact, dead flat, but the labelling distinguishes them, as well as the fact that the joints are staggered one from another. So, the 'dead flat' starts with a pair of first futtocks and the 'dead flat 1' with a floor, as shown in the framing elevation. There should be a pattern for 'dead flat' as well as 'dead flat 1' which you've posted above.
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Congratulations on a fine model - and case. The repainted counter looks great. I like your solution to the many rigols at that scale. Well done!
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That is the sheer line, as opposed to the toptimber line.
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I can't tell which line you are referring to, Allan. Can you add an arrow or something, please?
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An extremely respectable first model! You should be proud. Well done.
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- Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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I think that the fish hook would be around the lower end of the shank of the anchor rather than at the fluke as you have it, Phil. Otherwise, that looks very nicely done.
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Very nice framing work!
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Ouch! I had not read the description of that particular chuck in detail. I would shy away from plastic as well!
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Here is one source: https://www.chippingaway.com/shop/miniature-tools-wood-working/proxxon-bench-top-power-tools/proxxon-micro-woodturning-lathe/4-jaw-chuck/ There are others if you search the Internet.
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I've yet to regret a redo.
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When you get to that stage, don't forget to run a couple of 'proof diagonals' to check that all fairs out!
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Yes, you are correct: they are a form of sweep port. Stowage of sweeps is an interesting question. They could be racked vertically around a mast, although with the rig in this case that would not work. Perhaps bundled along the bulwark tops inside the shrouds? Sweep length as to such that the leverage is reasonable and the angle to enter the water is not too great. Therefore the inboard length cannot be too short as you suggest. One wonders if sweeps were only used in extreme circumstances!
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That's too bad. Richard. Looks like it's been an interesting project so far.
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