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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    And I innocently thought this thread was about ship modelling.... Isn't it?
  2. druxey
    Well, Bob, I for one am delighted that you are here to report. I'm sorry for your health issues and wish you a speedy and uneventful recovery. Get young guys to move heavy stuff in future, please! Take care, now.
  3. druxey
    You continue to surprise and amaze us! Not only do the details look terrific, but the the overall effect has visual unity; a very tricky balance to achieve.
  4. druxey
    Is there no stopping you in any material??? Real leathering is a pretty good trick, Michael.
  5. druxey
    Whoops: you are quite right, Russ! I apologize. It was rather late last night when I wrote that. Drop planks, i.e. reducing two strakes to one, or three to two will be required on a bluff-bowed hull form.
  6. druxey
    A good planning challenge is to see if you can lay out your planking with as few stealers as possible, or none at all. You will certainly need them on a 'tubby' hull.
  7. druxey
    Very, very impressive neat work, Reckon.
  8. druxey
    Terrific. Those 'improved' crowns are outstanding.
  9. druxey
    18th century contemporary models usually show two shaped spare topmasts and a yard or two.
  10. druxey
    Contemporary models' channels (18th century, English) are either in natural wood or matt black.
  11. druxey
    Sweet! Almost too nice and pristine. But time will take care of that.
  12. druxey
    To combat 'hourglassing' of shrouds when rigging ratlines, tie every fifth one to begin with. Then add a ratline half-way between those installed, and finally one between each to complete the job. As you go with the first and second round, check that you aren't pulling the shrouds out of line.
  13. druxey
    Welcome back, Thanasis! Good to see you are active again and doing such lovely work. I'm well aware of the troubles you are going through as a country and am sorry that it's affected you personally.
  14. druxey
    Good ventilation is a must, of course, as with any volatile solvent.
  15. druxey
    Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.
  16. druxey
    I use the stuff that model aircraft folk use: SIG brand. I dilute it considerably with solvent as the sealer is thick and syrupy.
  17. druxey
    Yes, the dye will 'wick' along the grain of the wood. No tape will prevent this. The only method to stop migration of dye that I know of is to score the wood with a sharp scalpel blade. This breaks the flow of dye and makes for a clean line. I cut quite deeply: the cut is not apparent in the finished piece. The only other option is to make the part in pieces, dye one part and then join the pieces afterwards.
  18. druxey
    Good advice, Greg.
  19. druxey
    Always delightful to look in on your log, Ed!
  20. druxey
    A waxing will certainly intensify the black dye if you want a darker finish.
  21. druxey
    Rope Jacob's ladders make sense: wood ones would present another source of flying splinters in action.
  22. druxey
    Keeps looking good, Toni.
  23. druxey
    From my observations on contemporary models, the channels are horizontal, not at right angles to the part of the hull to which they attach. Bolt spacing would rationally fall between the slots for the chains, not under them. I've not actually seen a model showing the air spaces - yet!
  24. druxey
    The X-Acto knife is a reflection of your skills, Dan. (Sorry, I couldn't help that!) Seriously - seriously good.
  25. druxey
    Very nice work there, Ben. Those joints look great.

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