druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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So far, so very good, Ben! -
Yes a small dab will do you: it's not like soft solder at all!
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Coming on a treat, Gary. She looks terrific!
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I'm not in the persuasion business either, but it's good to remember to take off too little rather than too much wood if pre-bevelling.
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Working in a confined space is a challenge, isn't it? Hopefully all will go well and no counter timbers hurt in the process.
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If that was your first silver soldering job, well done! You won't want to go back to soft solder now you've found out how strong the joint is, if properly made.
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Patience, and - eventually - all will be revealed!
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But Remco did so well on the last challenge, Mark! I couldn't resist….
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There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!
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The top of the floor timbers shown on the sheer are the lines of the floor heads, not their cross-section at the keel. That is why the floors in your rendering look too fat. You need to consult Steel's tables to find the moulded dimension on the the floors.
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Thimble help needed
druxey replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Another method for making thimbles is to cut short pieces off a suitable brass or copper tube. File these flat to the same length in a jig. (This is simply a piece of wood of suitable thickness with holes drilled through.) Place the piece of tube on a hard metal surface and use a centre punch to flare one side of the thimble. Turn it over and flare the other side in the same way. It will take a little experimentation to get the correct strength of 'punch' to do the job. -
I see what the question was - but it's already been answered! On another note, the moulded (in and out) dimension of your floor timbers look a bit thick. You might want to check that.
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You wrote: I am wondering, do the actual inner/outer frame surfaces angle to mimic the inner/outer profile of the hull? One "square" frame up against another "square" frame set in or out a bit to follow the half breadth doesn't seem right. I don't quite understand what you are saying here, Alan. Could you try again, please?
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With your machining skills, you could easily make your own duplicating device.
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Looking very ship-shape there!
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I am so sorry to hear of your, and your family's, tragic loss, Alan. May building this model be a healing process for you and a good memorial.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
She is progressing beautifully, Albert. Very nice, clean work. -
Nice going, Zep. A great way to spend lunches productively. I was (from the early photos) going to suggest you invest in a scalpel, but I see you've already done that in the more recent ones. Much easier, isn't it? On another note, I smiled when I saw where you are. I grew up a few miles from you, in Sidcup and Eltham. I imagine it's changed a bit in the 50 years I've been away!
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YA could probably have run the pirates down and sliced them in two with that sharp entry! Your idea of cutaways on the port side is a nice one. I suppose the style and size of them will take some working out.
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It's always nice to see something different on this site, and this stern post arrangement is different. Beautiful joinery - can't wait to see the metalwork!
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Personal preference. I use Fiebing's leather dye. I use a small plastic cup and apply the dye to the blocks using a Q-tip. A few minutes' soaking does the trick. I then take off any dried surface excess with a paper towel, then polish each block with a little wax.
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I still think that the helm port transom would only tenon into the sides of the stern post. Is there any argument against that point? And here's another heretical possibility: was there a helm port transom at all in this ship's configuration? Or are there simply chocks to frame in the helm port? I suggest this as the wing transom is so close to the helm port and upper deck transoms I can't see that it would add much to the overall structural strength. In Gary's model, the transom at least has the function of forming the upper border to the chase ports. I await your brickbats, gentlemen.
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This gets more interesting, gentlemen.
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That is a seriously nice piece of artillery, Rusty. And that is your first time working on a lathe? Wow! Hats off, gentlemen.
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Your latest sketch looks pretty convincing to me, Mark. Although I'd label 'upper deck transom' the last beam aft. The transom itself is aft of that, across the counter timbers. Either make the beam as you've drawn it, or make it a single curved one.
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