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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    At least one contemporary model I've seen (14 gun sloop, Rogers' Collection) shows the hooks and eyes on the inner sides of the pins.
  2. druxey
    Good going, Jim. If you rubber cement or glue your sandpaper to flexible sanding sticks, fairing will go much better than if you simply use sandpaper by hand.
  3. druxey
    "Quickly" is a relative term!
  4. druxey
    Coming along very nicely, Toni. You can always put blind bolts in the bitt pins: only you will ever know they don't go through the beams!
  5. druxey
    The amount of waste wood on the 'handle' of a chock is a very small sacrifice to make for the ease of handling this small part.
  6. druxey
    I believe that beyond about 20 degrees a rudder will create more drag without increasing turning efficiency. Old ships' rudders could not turn more than about 30 degrees each way.
  7. druxey
    I would agree with Gary. The headwork was changed from the original 'as built' conformation, the lowest point of the main rail being raised. This would necessitate the platform, in order to make a continuous surface on both sides of the beakhead bulkhead.However, the platform was 'original manufacturers' practice on 64 and 74 gun two-deckers, as Gary shows.
  8. druxey
    Outstanding, as always!
  9. druxey
    Swivel posts usually had an iron reinforcing band around the top, Robert.
  10. druxey
    I've seen contemporary 18th century British models and the inner bulwarks are treated in many different ways. I've seen: all red bulwarks and waterway (angled part only), red bulwarks with unpainted waterway, red quick work and black spirketting, unpainted waterway, red bulkwarks with black waterway, amongst other variations! Take your pick. In all cases the flat of the waterway is not painted.
  11. druxey
    Nice neat work and well worth the extra effort!
  12. druxey
    Best wishes as you embark upon Round Two, Hank.
  13. druxey
    Thanks for the information on sailmaking, Wefalck. Your micro-steady is brilliant! The metalwork at that scale is outstanding. I take my hat off to you!
  14. druxey
    Thanks for the extra information. On what kind of surface do you assemble the sail? I assume it must be something non-stick. Your results look outstanding.
  15. druxey
    Thanks for the clarification on sanding sealer, Wefalck. I need to make some sails soon, and will try this technique. Your sails look terrific, particularly at such a small scale.
  16. druxey
    Question: is your wood-filler (CLOU Schnellschleifgrundierung) the same thing as sanding sealer?
  17. druxey
    Nice going. I see that your lathe bed was only just long enough to turn the mast! I only 'discovered' watchmakers' lathes a few years ago. One can do really fine work on them. I now use both a Boley and a Levin. Both were acquired used but in excellent condition. It's interesting how useful other watchmakers' tools are for model-making, such as hand vises.
  18. druxey
    Well, slow is good. It means that you are taking the time to be meticulous. And your photos bear out that theory! Looking good, Jim. As there have been no messages on this thread for a few days, I thought everyone had gone away for the summer. Glad to see it ain't so.
  19. druxey
    Thank for these: there are some very fine Italian model-makers out there!
  20. druxey
    Sharp looking prototype, sharp looking model. Nicely done!
  21. druxey
    Ah, yes. The intimidating blank white canvas! I personally prime with warm grey. Much less scary. I hope your canvas goes well, Michael.
  22. druxey
    Well, Michael, I think you've nailed it. Well done.
  23. druxey
    Neat. It's always nice to see something more unusual featured.
  24. druxey
    re: joinery/ stem and keel: I'm sure that the original ship's stem and keel were in far fewer pieces than shown in the illustration. Large trees were plentiful back then. I suspect what you're seeing is how the replica's structure was put together. Typically, for instance, the stem was made of only two pieces - half the number shown here! - as was the stemson.
  25. druxey
    Minor suggestion: would the wire above the deadeye take a tighter curve if squeezed together and shaped using needle-nosed pliers?

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