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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Also Manitowoc is an interesting little town. There is a house/museum with Chinese antique scrolls and paintings and a real 1920's soda fountain shop. The other big model show is at New London, CT (near Mystic Seaport) at the end of April each year.
  2. The width of the sweep blade was such that it would slide through the port on the diagonal.
  3. Manitowoc? A place in Wisconsin on the west shore of Lake Michigan that has an annual boat show.
  4. Glad things are working out, Alan! If you can limit your excess wood to 1/64"outside the line, you'll save a lot of elbow grease and dust when it comes to fairing. Of course, you will need to be particularly particular (is that redundant?) in assembling the frames and when erecting them, but your work looks good so far. And yes, this is not a five-minute job.
  5. As Wayne suggested, theory and practice did not always coincide. I'm sure that a spar of roughly the right length was pressed into service on many an occasion. What size of ship and date have you in mind?
  6. There were no oarlocks attached to sweep ports. The sweeps were pushed through the ports only when needed.
  7. You will also find variations in colour tend to even out over time with exposure to light and air.
  8. One can get even finer ended needle-nose pliers (jewelers' supply houses), but the best Swedish ones are quite pricey at around US$50.00. However, they perform beautifully. Just don't drop them accidentally on to concrete as I once did!
  9. Actually, Grasshopper, I don't spend that much time on this site: I do limit the number of threads that I follow, though. Your strategy of 'a piece at a time' is a good one.
  10. It's an interesting read, full of anecdotes from the period. Recommended!
  11. So, the frames are becoming 'bolt dense'? Soon there will be very little frame wood left - just a maze of bolt heads! Your model continues to inspire, Ed.
  12. Hint: If you are cutting gentle curves or straight lines with the scroll saw, I find a thicker rather than thinner blade (properly tensioned) gives better control. However, the tooth pattern must be such that at least three teeth should be within the thickness of material being cut.
  13. Yes, E&T, the Scotch-Brite are the ones I'm using right now.
  14. OK, OK! In my defence: I use a pair of pliers for changing blades and have never performed inadvertent surgery upon myself. I'm sorry that I ever brought the subject up, Ed! Enjoy your razor blades, ladies and gentlemen.
  15. Recently I've experimented with abrading the metal surface before blackening in order to avoid nasty chemicals. I've been using Scotch-BriteTM radial bristle disks that are 400-grit. These disks, in a rotary tool, make short work of getting to a clean metal surface. The flexible bristles get into nooks and crannies nicely. I use the same technique prior to silver soldering.
  16. Lovely, lovely. But Ed - with all your sophisticated tools, jigs and fixtures, you are still using a razor blade??? Try a #11 surgical blade in a surgical handle.
  17. Apparently the articles on the 50-gun ship also appeared in book form, along with two other models by R.J Collins (Myrmidon of the 1780's and a sixth rate of the 1680's). A search on abebooks might yield you a result.
  18. Thank you for these exhaustive test results, E&T. They are very informative.
  19. I don't know which you are better at: model making or photography! Both are excellent, Gaetan.
  20. Now that was a lot of work! Very nicely done, Cabrapente. I particularly like the metal strops that you've made.
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