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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    There were no oarlocks attached to sweep ports. The sweeps were pushed through the ports only when needed.
  2. druxey
    You will also find variations in colour tend to even out over time with exposure to light and air.
  3. druxey
    One can get even finer ended needle-nose pliers (jewelers' supply houses), but the best Swedish ones are quite pricey at around US$50.00. However, they perform beautifully. Just don't drop them accidentally on to concrete as I once did!
  4. druxey
    Actually, Grasshopper, I don't spend that much time on this site: I do limit the number of threads that I follow, though. Your strategy of 'a piece at a time' is a good one.
  5. druxey
    It's an interesting read, full of anecdotes from the period. Recommended!
  6. druxey
    Looks like you're having fun!
  7. druxey
    Also any store that does architectural print work.
  8. druxey
    Hats off to the outed Mr. Duffy!
  9. druxey
    So, the frames are becoming 'bolt dense'? Soon there will be very little frame wood left - just a maze of bolt heads! Your model continues to inspire, Ed.
  10. druxey
    Hint: If you are cutting gentle curves or straight lines with the scroll saw, I find a thicker rather than thinner blade (properly tensioned) gives better control. However, the tooth pattern must be such that at least three teeth should be within the thickness of material being cut.
  11. druxey
    Yes, E&T, the Scotch-Brite are the ones I'm using right now.
  12. druxey
    OK, OK! In my defence: I use a pair of pliers for changing blades and have never performed inadvertent surgery upon myself. I'm sorry that I ever brought the subject up, Ed! Enjoy your razor blades, ladies and gentlemen.
  13. druxey
    Recently I've experimented with abrading the metal surface before blackening in order to avoid nasty chemicals. I've been using Scotch-BriteTM radial bristle disks that are 400-grit. These disks, in a rotary tool, make short work of getting to a clean metal surface. The flexible bristles get into nooks and crannies nicely. I use the same technique prior to silver soldering.
  14. druxey
    Lovely, lovely. But Ed - with all your sophisticated tools, jigs and fixtures, you are still using a razor blade??? Try a #11 surgical blade in a surgical handle.
  15. druxey
    Apparently the articles on the 50-gun ship also appeared in book form, along with two other models by R.J Collins (Myrmidon of the 1780's and a sixth rate of the 1680's). A search on abebooks might yield you a result.
  16. druxey
    Thank you for these exhaustive test results, E&T. They are very informative.
  17. druxey
    I don't know which you are better at: model making or photography! Both are excellent, Gaetan.
  18. druxey
    Now that was a lot of work! Very nicely done, Cabrapente. I particularly like the metal strops that you've made.
  19. druxey
    Glad to be of service, Stuntflyer!
  20. druxey
    There are 5 sheets in the plan set, apparently. The how to model this subject was described in a series of 1953 Model Engineer articles by R.J. Collins. I believe that the plan set is still available (search on-line) and old copies of Model Engineer can be found on e-Bay. Happy hunting!
  21. druxey
    High density foams have been around for a while. I've used them in theatrical set construction in the past. They work very well for carving in detail but, as mentioned, are very expensive and only available in large chunks. My only reservation would be the longevity of the material, but for most folk this probably isn't a big consideration.
  22. druxey
    As I PM'd you, Mark, I just use ordinary bond paper, stretched as water-colour paper before painting it with either flat enamel or acrylic paint. When the painting is done, I cut out the pieces. Dilute white glue is used to attach the finished friezes.
  23. druxey
    Have you considered painting the frieze on paper and then gluing it over the planking? Many contemporary models did it this way. I've found it a lot easier than trying to position the model in a way that isn't awkward - or risky! - while painting the lower counter.
  24. druxey
    Superb work, Ed - but now you've made me run out of superlatives!
  25. druxey
    Interesting thread. I recall visiting an English country church in my childhood. There was an ossuary in the undercroft with stacks of both femurs and skulls. I presume these had been disinterred from the churchyard to make room for newer arrivals (think of the graveyard scene in Hamlet).

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