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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Dan: I think that two generations of model makers have been a little misled by Longridge's (correct) assertion that the lines of these timbers converge to a point somewhere in the air. However, the shipbuilders (and we modelmakers) have no need to actually figure out this virtual vanishing point. All we need to know is the width across the wing counter and the spacing and sided widths of the counter timbers. We also need to know the width across the top timbers at the stern, then proportionally divide up that distance into the intervals and (now narrowed) sidings of the counter timbers. There is no need to figure out where that imaginary meeting point is.
  2. druxey
    Fascinating discussion on the merits of water tank design! And great work as usual, Ed.
  3. druxey
    Lovely work, as usual, Rob.
  4. druxey
    Too much! Next, it's be Phillips screw heads, then maybe even Torx.... It's madness, I tell you, Andy!
  5. druxey
    Thanks for the scale slotted screws, Michael. I knew you could do them!
  6. druxey
    Those are interesting figures, Gaetan. Thanks for posting them. I assume therefore that the slight acidity does not affect wood but is sufficient, in combination with UV light, to deteriorate rigging cotton, linen or silk.
  7. druxey
    Would Austrian archives possibly have information if these were captured ships?
  8. druxey
    Well achieved, Albert! That's the most difficult part of the model done.
  9. druxey
    You might wish to consider conservators' (microcrystalline) wax: it is colourless and pH neutral.
  10. druxey
    Your work always makes me smile, Doris. Dobri!
  11. druxey
    I suppose the screws for the hinges will be scale slot-headed ones as well? Those are lovely looking hinge knuckles, Michael.
  12. druxey
    Looking ship-shape and Bristol fashion, Ben. You may wish to consider shortening those bolts so that they don't project above the keel, otherwise they will be in the way of the frames later on.
  13. druxey
    I use an off-the-shelf bottle of deionized water. Usually I think it's intended for steam irons. Try your local supermarket household aisle.
  14. druxey
    You could order Jax brass blackening agent from Lacy's in Toronto.
  15. druxey
    What you do with modelling clay in small sizes is very, very impressive!
  16. druxey
    I use my blackening agent at between 8:1 and 10:1 with deionized water and get good, if slower, results. And no flakiness either. See if that helps.
  17. druxey
    Lovely work. I do notice, however, that in the photos the blackened surfaces look a bit blotchy. Try buffing with a soft cloth or Q-tip and you should get a nice, even low-sheen finish. Do protect the wood, though, now that the metal is in place.
  18. druxey
    Thanks for my smile for the day, Michael. Looks great!
  19. druxey
    If you've never done cant frames before, don't be discouraged if you have to take more than one run at them. We all did the first (and sometimes the second) time! You'll be breaking out the isopropanol at some point with the best of us. But, with persistence, you'll win.
  20. druxey
    Well done on those double-ring stanchions, Dan. Having done them myself, with much cursing, I know just how tricky they can be! Your solution looks great.
  21. druxey
    Your accurate mark-out of the building board will more than pay off soon! Nicely executed, Ben.
  22. druxey
    Always a pleasure to see your progress, Gaetan! She's one magnificent monster of a model.
  23. druxey
    Get the outline of the counter drawn out using a piece of tracing paper. Then play around on the tracing until the spacing and slope of the lettering looks right. Transfer the design back on to the counter using transfer paper. This is like graphite paper, only comes in different colours, including white. One can find transfer paper at craft stores like Michael's. Then you are ready to paint with confidence.
  24. druxey
    Now you are having altogether too much fun!
  25. druxey
    Well done with the wheel, Dan!

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