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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Mark has the best advice. Stop and think. Which way am I going? Kits or scratch built? Now make two lists. One, 'things I want'. Two 'Things I need.' That will clarify your thinking before you spend like, well, a drunken sailor.
  2. Russ and Allan offer good advice. There are a number of books that cover this subject as well: Ed Tosti, Allan Yedlinsky and David Antscherl (at SeaWatch Books, one of MSW's sponsors) have all written extensively on the subject of framing, as well as others.
  3. Yes, it was a lengthy business. That is one reason that a ship's boat would be towed: it would be ready when required.
  4. Impressive group, Doris! I do wish you'd put them in glass cases for safety....
  5. Silly question perhaps, but wouldn't all the edges of the coamings and other deck fittings be chamfered or rounded off a little? The model looks terrific, though.
  6. My first ropewalk was from Longridge's design. I always had trouble with it until I saw a real 'top'. This was not bullet-shaped as his was, but a long cone with the grooves straight rather than curving. This had much less friction and solved most of my difficulties.
  7. Fortunately for us, Longridge's books are NOT in storage! He was a trail-blazer for many of us.
  8. Is there a connection between 'square' line and using an even numbers of strands, rather than odd?
  9. Pretty nice result for basswood! A neat -looking model so far. As to speed of finishing the model, ship modeling is definitely not a sprint triathlon!
  10. I was also wondering if a mock set up for the gaff strop and some tension on it would shape the wire to the 'V' it should be.
  11. Bullseyes are not really blocks as such. They are circular 'doughnuts' of wood to lead lines fairly though. The circumference has a groove for the bullseye to be lashed to a relevant point such as inside a shroud.
  12. The captain supplied his own furniture: so there was no 'standard' issue. The only things in a brig's cabin might be a rudder trunk, or casing with a top for a chart table, if the rudder di not go up through the deck above.
  13. Sorry to read about all your rigging troubles, Bruce. I guess that the shellac prevented the dilute wax from being absorbed properly by the line. Too bad that you have to start over, but I'm sure the re-work will be better than the original!
  14. A drill is not a good choice: it revolves too rapidly. The blocks simply stay on the periphery due to centrifugal force and don't get tumbled.
  15. The truth may be that different shipyards had slightly different styles of building.
  16. Think of lofting as plotting a graph, and it gets less daunting. Each bulkhead is like a slice of bread from a loaf. The waterlines and buttock lines cross each 'slice' at defined points. Join up the points, plotted at the correct heights or distances out from the centreline and, ta da!
  17. Holding a square workpiece in a three jaw chuck is a good way to drive yourself crazy. If you don't have a four-jaw chuck (and most of us don't), try making the chuck end of the workpiece octagonal and then rounding it off. Now chuck it - rather than after turning it! You might improve your success rate this way.
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