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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. She is progressing beautifully, Albert. Very nice, clean work.
  2. Nice going, Zep. A great way to spend lunches productively. I was (from the early photos) going to suggest you invest in a scalpel, but I see you've already done that in the more recent ones. Much easier, isn't it? On another note, I smiled when I saw where you are. I grew up a few miles from you, in Sidcup and Eltham. I imagine it's changed a bit in the 50 years I've been away!
  3. YA could probably have run the pirates down and sliced them in two with that sharp entry! Your idea of cutaways on the port side is a nice one. I suppose the style and size of them will take some working out.
  4. It's always nice to see something different on this site, and this stern post arrangement is different. Beautiful joinery - can't wait to see the metalwork!
  5. Personal preference. I use Fiebing's leather dye. I use a small plastic cup and apply the dye to the blocks using a Q-tip. A few minutes' soaking does the trick. I then take off any dried surface excess with a paper towel, then polish each block with a little wax.
  6. I still think that the helm port transom would only tenon into the sides of the stern post. Is there any argument against that point? And here's another heretical possibility: was there a helm port transom at all in this ship's configuration? Or are there simply chocks to frame in the helm port? I suggest this as the wing transom is so close to the helm port and upper deck transoms I can't see that it would add much to the overall structural strength. In Gary's model, the transom at least has the function of forming the upper border to the chase ports. I await your brickbats, gentlemen.
  7. That is a seriously nice piece of artillery, Rusty. And that is your first time working on a lathe? Wow! Hats off, gentlemen.
  8. Your latest sketch looks pretty convincing to me, Mark. Although I'd label 'upper deck transom' the last beam aft. The transom itself is aft of that, across the counter timbers. Either make the beam as you've drawn it, or make it a single curved one.
  9. What is this wizardry now??? Excessively brilliant. Are those dovetails I see in the drawer sides?
  10. Alan: that drawing certainly shows that there was a tiny light room/cupboard, so there must have been materiel such as fuses and slow matches, etc. stored in the gunner's room on larger ships. In the carpenter's room example you posted, it looks more like a illuminating light to me. However, it does look ambiguous.
  11. Aft deadwood looks very nice so far! I assume that the 'overhang' at the keel is fullness for insurance at the moment.
  12. In what you have sketched, it seems likely that the helmport transom tenons into the sides of the stern post. The curve down would be more of a dogs-leg, using naturally crooked timber. The upper deck transom does seem excessively wide. As a result, it might be of two pieces tabled together. Check the NMM 'Collections' site and look at ZAZ1411 for another solution, as well as ZAZ1483, ZAZ1482 and ZAZ2098. This shows the curved beam ahead of the rudder/post and (presumably) a separate transom aft of the rudder head.
  13. Exquisite work on the figures and costumes, Doris!
  14. So far, so good, by the look of it. You will still need to 'prove' that all is fair later by use of proof diagonals. BTW, the usual spelling of the curve is 'sheer'. 'Shear' is where something solid splits apart from lateral forces imposed on it. Think of a pair of shears!
  15. Access to these lanterns was only necessary from inside the room. The only place where outside access was essential was inside the magazine(s). Think about that for a moment!
  16. Is the stock you are using too thin? Kind of looks like that from your photos. The card should not buckle like that, or be so translucent.
  17. Unfortunately I don't know what became of that model, Greg. I believe Joe was still working on it when he died. I saw the model in about 2002, I think, at a demonstration he was giving at the Nautical Research Guild's annual Conference. I do remember it made a big impression on me. His work was up to Ed's standard. Perhaps someone else has the answer to your question.
  18. The late Joe McCleary once built a model with external strapping that was let into the framing - and a very neat piece of work it was. Of course, scoring frames from inside would be far more difficult!
  19. Thanks for that link, Guy. Time was when you could find bronze wool at your local hardware store….
  20. Love the 'melting' effect of those window munions!
  21. There's illustrations of bucklers in The Fully Framed Model, Volume II.
  22. The vent would probably angle away from the bulkhead and have air space above, to clear the deck head. The lanterns look terrific.
  23. Beautiful, Ed. I dislike steel wool also. Have you tried to acquire bronze wool? Works the same way as steel wool, but without the disadvantages of ferrous particles. Harder to find than it used to be, though.
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