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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I think most folk remove their models for fairing up. Kind of hard on the knuckles near the keel otherwise, I would think.... Sanding sealer can be used any time. It does not seem to affect glue adhesion later on. Poly finish could be an issue.
  2. druxey
    HSM: blackening and patinating agents are readily available in Canada from jewellers' supply houses such as Lacy's.
  3. druxey
    Very neat machining! This is a very impressive model for both size and quality.
  4. druxey
    These newer LED grain of wheat bulbs look much more realistic and convincing. Now, how to make them flicker....
  5. druxey
    Greg wraps the area he wants to de-bond with plastic wrap to retain the isopropanol where he wants it. It prevents weakening nearby joints.
  6. druxey
    Good to see something different being tackled, steam schooner.
  7. druxey
    Lovely, but don't fix the cleats yet: it's difficult to thread the lashing lines through if they are firmly in place!
  8. druxey
    Excellent advice from Blue Ensign and Jim Lad!
  9. druxey
    So far, so good. She's looking very nice indeed.
  10. druxey
    Your framing looks very nicely done indeed, Clay. Good to see your log once more.
  11. druxey
    Goring (belts) of copper with parallel to the waterline strakes came in in the 19th century, Before that, as Russ describes, the copper ended up at an angle at the waterline.
  12. druxey
    See the three 'pinned' tutorials at the top of this topic for a full discussion of planking.
  13. druxey
    Can you tell that I'm smiling seeing your photos again?
  14. druxey
    Many thanks for this terrific re-run of your log, Gary. It is an inspiration to all builders of accurately framed and detailed models on this site.
  15. druxey
    Interesting how Humbrol paint lasts, if the tin is sealed properly. I've had similar experiences with it. Once thoroughly stirred it still is as good as new, as you said.
  16. druxey
    Ah, the old isopropanol trick.... Works every time. And there seem to be a lot of times!
  17. druxey
    Sometimes line that is stiff or has 'memory' and loosens can be tamed with a wet brush. Try that on your clove hitches.
  18. druxey
    Lee Valley is a good tip for quality planes. However, I find a well-honed chisel, used bevel down, easier to use than a plane. It is especially useful where a mast or spar goes from round to octagonal or square. You can 'get into the corner' nicely with a chisel.
  19. druxey
    Neat method of doing this with power equipment.
  20. druxey
    Those scupper support timbers are better placed once the level of the deck is established, as Greg suggests.
  21. druxey
    Oh...my.... I really feel for you. I'm so sorry that you are back to Square One. Next round, if you still have a cat, may I suggest you either close the door or, if you don't have a separate workshop, clamp the building board down between sessions? On the plus side, you will find that your work will go quicker and more accurately than the first time. Best wishes, Cap'n Rat Fink.
  22. druxey
    I suspect Anthony Anthony represents 1 and 2 as pendants and tackle for raising rigging to the lower tops. (The pendant portion is later termed a Burton pendant.) There was one on port and starboard side. Usually these were taken to the rails inboard of the shrouds of their respective mast. The rather Rube-Goldberg style arrangement at 3 is interesting. Could it be a tackle to tension the fore topmast stay?
  23. druxey
    Very adroitly done, Mark!
  24. druxey
    I really like your artistry in softening the gold finish to your carvings and giving it a patinated look. Outstanding.
  25. druxey
    Grant's method works very well for avoiding that concave look!

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