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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Sweet! You have got the sheer curve beautifully, as well as the various round-ups on the stern. No easy task.
  2. druxey
    Oh, yes: those railing supporters are, in the case of the outer ones, the tops of the outer counter timbers. If the inner ones align accurately with the pillars between the lights (hard to tell on your small image) then they, too are the upper ends of the inner counter timbers. If they do not line up, then they are standards on the quarter deck.
  3. druxey
    Looks like your drawing is not typical. The tafferel (aft) is lower than usual, so that there is a bulwark forward of it to make up the height for safety. This being the case, the tafferel is the width of the blue line, as it butts up against the bulwark. The latter has its own rail, the width of which you can measure directly from the plan.
  4. druxey
    As usual, your progress is a delight to watch, Gary!
  5. druxey
    That's one elegant hull! Very nice progress, Clare.
  6. druxey
    I suspect this may be a 'captain's choice' decision. I'm not certain that there is a definitive answer to this question. Anyone else?
  7. druxey
    The low areas are the basic windlass. Juan Carlos. The high areas are all thin wood added on afterwards. It's how the original was built: these wear areas can be replaced.
  8. druxey
    Your deck framing and cants for the cabin bulkheads look very good. Well done!
  9. druxey
    Good going, Ben. You are going to switch back to your other model just when things are getting interesting??
  10. druxey
    Just came across your log, Michiel. Very nice work indeed! Lovely model.
  11. druxey
    The lowering capstan is a very nice touch! Brilliant.
  12. druxey
    Very, very nice, Gary! And the riding bitt crosspieces took a lot of abuse. They had a wear strip on the aft side as well that were easily changed, as well as the main crosspiece, as you mention.
  13. druxey
    Advice on planking? See the tutorials that are posted on this site. Lots of good advice for you there.
  14. druxey
    You are absolutely correct: the thickness of pencil lines matters! If you draw your own plans, these should be as thin as possible. In the case of plans such as you show, it can be a problem. One test might be to know the thickness of the bulkhead material and see which side of the lines of the slots match this. If that is not possible, then I'd cut to the outside of the lines. It's easier to sand a bit more off than glue it on again!
  15. druxey
    Thanks for answering my question, Rekon!
  16. druxey
    Castello boxwood, Janos.
  17. druxey
    It's the real thing, Janos.
  18. druxey
    Whew! It's amazing what can happen in a split second of inattention or distraction. That, I'm glad to read, was NOT a disaster this time.
  19. druxey
    An example of an octagon cut using the method I've described is shown here. The overall length of this windlass at 1:48 scale is about 4".
  20. druxey
    Oh, my! Now that is ornamental 'ironwork'. Seems almost a pity to blacken it.... Beautifully done. As a matter of interest, what kind of soldering mat are you using there?
  21. druxey
    Definitely you are correct, Robin: this 1853 mention was a successor Alfred, the third of the name.
  22. druxey
    A promising beginning! Looking forward to reading more as you research her.
  23. druxey
    Pewter blackening agent works best (Jax or another brand, though jewelry supply houses). However, if the metal has been cast, it has a layer of mould release on the surface that defies colouring. First you will need to abrade the surface to get rid of this layer to get satisfactory results.
  24. druxey
    Well, a schooner shouldn't take as long to build as a frigate, Allan! All the best on this new model and also for your annual getaway.
  25. druxey
    Nice progress. Now you can imagine what it's like for Greg as he frames a complete hull!

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