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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Jim, you wrote: "A piece that early on was shown with great pride to friends and neighbors and anyone I met on the street doesn't pass muster a week later. I think that is called progress." Indeed it is! I think most of us have experienced this. I cringe now when I think about my early work. It'll probably be the same a few years from now about my present models! Looks like you are coming along really well. Good stuff.
  2. Check Ed Tosti's Naiad build log photos and you will see how the sleepers and transom knees are placed.
  3. Sorry to read about your slipped disc, Kats. I hope you'll soon be fully functional again. Best wishes for a full recovery.
  4. Have you tried masking film and acrylic paint to simulate the non-skid areas?
  5. Very nice progress, Dan. I thought that the non-skid areas were fine wet-and-dry carborundum paper!
  6. Very nice and clean work, Bob. I think you may be a little hard on yourself with your own critique!
  7. Loss of a rudder was a very serious circumstance. Usually chains were attached to (hopefully) retrieve it if it were to become unshipped. Many models omit this feature, or the hooks to which the chain is looped out of the way to. The hooks were attached to the tuck rail. Of course, many other features of the actual ship are often absent from models as well, such as the rudder coat over the helm port.
  8. Thank you, Popeye. That's a definitive visual reference!
  9. Nailed it this time, Dan. Thanks for taking my criticism constructively!
  10. There are almost always problems with the old plans because of either dimensional instability of the paper, or distortion in reproduction of the originals. Direct tracing will not correct this. In particular, different plans of the same ship will not match for this reason. This may be the issue that you have discovered.
  11. Lovely work, Dan. However, to my eye the handholds on the prototype are of smaller diameter than your model ones. What do you think? The companion cover, however, looks terrific.
  12. You exceeded yourself with the improved crowns and other detail work, Doris. Terrific! Dobri.
  13. Caramba!!!! I only expected the pins in their holes, not their chains as well, Dan. You've exceeded the challenge; which was only in jest, by the way! Well done. Now, what fiendish detail can I think of?
  14. Many folk are either intimidated by the thought of carving or have had poor success when trying. An alternative method to consider is to build up the carved work using a bakeable modeling clay such as Fimo or Sculpey. Also, some modelmakers leave off all the carved work entirely. Don't limit your horizon by fear of carving!
  15. Lovely craftsmanship, Giorgio. Glad to know your health is OK.
  16. If you mean a scroll saw, the DeWalt model 778 is one to consider. It is a heavy-duty machine you should only need to purchase once. I've had mine, trouble free (apart from the occasional broken blade) for 12 years now, and it's cut not only a lot of wood, but metal as well. Of course, you will need saw blades specifically designed for cutting metal to do that.
  17. You are right Jim: the one aspect of model-making that has enduring appeal is problem-solving. And there are always new problems to solve!
  18. Yes, Castello is considerably harder. Pear needs to be handled carefully. One can get small dings out by applying water with a brush to them. Water will swell the wood locally and usually get the ding out. Sometimes, repeated application is needed Of course, it will mess up any finish on the wood, if present, and you'll have to refinish. Being careful is a better strategy.
  19. Pardon my ignorance, but shouldn't they be ratchets for pawls rather than gear teeth? Or at that scale, does it matter?
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