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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. The amount of waste wood on the 'handle' of a chock is a very small sacrifice to make for the ease of handling this small part.
  2. I believe that beyond about 20 degrees a rudder will create more drag without increasing turning efficiency. Old ships' rudders could not turn more than about 30 degrees each way.
  3. I would agree with Gary. The headwork was changed from the original 'as built' conformation, the lowest point of the main rail being raised. This would necessitate the platform, in order to make a continuous surface on both sides of the beakhead bulkhead.However, the platform was 'original manufacturers' practice on 64 and 74 gun two-deckers, as Gary shows.
  4. Swivel posts usually had an iron reinforcing band around the top, Robert.
  5. I've seen contemporary 18th century British models and the inner bulwarks are treated in many different ways. I've seen: all red bulwarks and waterway (angled part only), red bulwarks with unpainted waterway, red quick work and black spirketting, unpainted waterway, red bulkwarks with black waterway, amongst other variations! Take your pick. In all cases the flat of the waterway is not painted.
  6. Best wishes as you embark upon Round Two, Hank.
  7. Thanks for the information on sailmaking, Wefalck. Your micro-steady is brilliant! The metalwork at that scale is outstanding. I take my hat off to you!
  8. Thanks for the extra information. On what kind of surface do you assemble the sail? I assume it must be something non-stick. Your results look outstanding.
  9. Thanks for the clarification on sanding sealer, Wefalck. I need to make some sails soon, and will try this technique. Your sails look terrific, particularly at such a small scale.
  10. Question: is your wood-filler (CLOU Schnellschleifgrundierung) the same thing as sanding sealer?
  11. Nice going. I see that your lathe bed was only just long enough to turn the mast! I only 'discovered' watchmakers' lathes a few years ago. One can do really fine work on them. I now use both a Boley and a Levin. Both were acquired used but in excellent condition. It's interesting how useful other watchmakers' tools are for model-making, such as hand vises.
  12. Well, slow is good. It means that you are taking the time to be meticulous. And your photos bear out that theory! Looking good, Jim. As there have been no messages on this thread for a few days, I thought everyone had gone away for the summer. Glad to see it ain't so.
  13. Thank for these: there are some very fine Italian model-makers out there!
  14. Sharp looking prototype, sharp looking model. Nicely done!
  15. Ah, yes. The intimidating blank white canvas! I personally prime with warm grey. Much less scary. I hope your canvas goes well, Michael.
  16. Well, Michael, I think you've nailed it. Well done.
  17. Neat. It's always nice to see something more unusual featured.
  18. re: joinery/ stem and keel: I'm sure that the original ship's stem and keel were in far fewer pieces than shown in the illustration. Large trees were plentiful back then. I suspect what you're seeing is how the replica's structure was put together. Typically, for instance, the stem was made of only two pieces - half the number shown here! - as was the stemson.
  19. Minor suggestion: would the wire above the deadeye take a tighter curve if squeezed together and shaped using needle-nosed pliers?
  20. Looks like you've labelled 1 to 4 correctly, Sherry. The area under 4 was used for accommodation, but it was not comfortable, definitely not a great Cabin. Either trumpeters or cabin boys would use this low area for sleeping in. Headroom was very limited! There would have been an access door, but perhaps this has been missed on this drawing. The level below this with balcony would be for the Admiral's accommodation, if one were aboard (this is a three-decker), and the level below that was for the captain and the lieutenants.
  21. No overpainting or pentimenti allowed, Michael?
  22. One possible set of spar and sail dimensions can be found in Petrejus' book on the Irene, a ex Cruiser class vessel. The English language edition is sought after, therefore quite hard to find and expensive. The illustration of the gun in high elevation has a slightly misleading caption. Not only was the quoin removed in this instance, but also the bed beneath the quoin. Removing only the quoin would elevate the gun perhaps about 10 degrees.
  23. It's too bad some instructions make assumptions of the reader.... If there are other puzzling issues that come up, someone on this site will be able to enlighten you, I'm sure!
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