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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Good ventilation is a must, of course, as with any volatile solvent.
  2. Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.
  3. I use the stuff that model aircraft folk use: SIG brand. I dilute it considerably with solvent as the sealer is thick and syrupy.
  4. Yes, the dye will 'wick' along the grain of the wood. No tape will prevent this. The only method to stop migration of dye that I know of is to score the wood with a sharp scalpel blade. This breaks the flow of dye and makes for a clean line. I cut quite deeply: the cut is not apparent in the finished piece. The only other option is to make the part in pieces, dye one part and then join the pieces afterwards.
  5. Always delightful to look in on your log, Ed!
  6. A waxing will certainly intensify the black dye if you want a darker finish.
  7. Rope Jacob's ladders make sense: wood ones would present another source of flying splinters in action.
  8. From my observations on contemporary models, the channels are horizontal, not at right angles to the part of the hull to which they attach. Bolt spacing would rationally fall between the slots for the chains, not under them. I've not actually seen a model showing the air spaces - yet!
  9. The X-Acto knife is a reflection of your skills, Dan. (Sorry, I couldn't help that!) Seriously - seriously good.
  10. Very nice work there, Ben. Those joints look great.
  11. At least one contemporary model I've seen (14 gun sloop, Rogers' Collection) shows the hooks and eyes on the inner sides of the pins.
  12. Good going, Jim. If you rubber cement or glue your sandpaper to flexible sanding sticks, fairing will go much better than if you simply use sandpaper by hand.
  13. Coming along very nicely, Toni. You can always put blind bolts in the bitt pins: only you will ever know they don't go through the beams!
  14. The amount of waste wood on the 'handle' of a chock is a very small sacrifice to make for the ease of handling this small part.
  15. I believe that beyond about 20 degrees a rudder will create more drag without increasing turning efficiency. Old ships' rudders could not turn more than about 30 degrees each way.
  16. I would agree with Gary. The headwork was changed from the original 'as built' conformation, the lowest point of the main rail being raised. This would necessitate the platform, in order to make a continuous surface on both sides of the beakhead bulkhead.However, the platform was 'original manufacturers' practice on 64 and 74 gun two-deckers, as Gary shows.
  17. Swivel posts usually had an iron reinforcing band around the top, Robert.
  18. I've seen contemporary 18th century British models and the inner bulwarks are treated in many different ways. I've seen: all red bulwarks and waterway (angled part only), red bulwarks with unpainted waterway, red quick work and black spirketting, unpainted waterway, red bulkwarks with black waterway, amongst other variations! Take your pick. In all cases the flat of the waterway is not painted.
  19. Best wishes as you embark upon Round Two, Hank.
  20. Thanks for the information on sailmaking, Wefalck. Your micro-steady is brilliant! The metalwork at that scale is outstanding. I take my hat off to you!
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