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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Very interesting information, Wayne. Thanks for posting all this!
  2. Yes, beeswax will eventually cause problems, as it is not pH neutral like conservators' wax. However, it's your call. I imagine you should be OK when you've applied the wax.
  3. If it did open inward, runner 63 is correct. However, weather deck doors open outward: think of a heavy sea breaking over the deck. The water pressure would blow an inward opening door open. In the 18th century 'T' style hinges were most often used.
  4. Any natural fibre will absorb and give off moisture. Shellac is not water-proof: remember the white ring if you accidentally put a water glass on a French polished table top? You'll either need to live with what happens or slow the moisture migration by using conservators' wax or some other means.
  5. The only barrel that might be on deck would be a water barrel: a butt. That's where gossip occurred (think the office water-cooler!); hence the origin of the expression 'scuttle-butt'.
  6. You wrote: I'm disappointed that, with the roof on, you can't really see the interior detail, sigh! But, you know it's there! And so do we.
  7. Thanks for the update, Jim. We will be patient.....
  8. I have to echo Greg's comments. Generally, as a scratch model-maker, i don't spend much time looking at kits. However, yours and your prototypes are the rare exception! Beautifully executed, especially considering the parameters that you have to operate within.
  9. Further to Norman's caution on bitumen, it is also not stable. Old oil paintings which had bituminous brown paint used show either 'alligatored' surfaces or wrinkles. Paint containing bitumen never completely hardens.
  10. 'Black stuff' was also popular, which did have pitch as an ingredient.
  11. As neat a rigging job as I've ever seen. Well done!
  12. Sounds like quite the struggle to achieve the result you wanted, Dan! But you've succeeded brilliantly in the end. I'm surprised that those essentially soft-soldered joints held. Food for thought....
  13. The other method will also yield consistent slots, Toni. The only difference is that about 50% of the slotted material vanishes in sawdust!
  14. Now that's something I hadn't thought of: I always cut the slots first in the stock, then part off the individual pieces. Your pre-cutting the strips, then gluing them is a great idea.
  15. Looks like you are making good progress bringing order out of chaos. Possible sources for you might be the U.S. Naval Academy Museum or the Smithsonian. A good book on the subject would be James Lees 'Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860'. American rigging practice would be very similar.
  16. Congratulations! All you have to do is remove the 'bomb' shelter' over the wheel and pop her on the pedestals. She is a terrific model, Ed. Thanks for sharing her build with us here.
  17. Sweet! You have got the sheer curve beautifully, as well as the various round-ups on the stern. No easy task.
  18. Oh, yes: those railing supporters are, in the case of the outer ones, the tops of the outer counter timbers. If the inner ones align accurately with the pillars between the lights (hard to tell on your small image) then they, too are the upper ends of the inner counter timbers. If they do not line up, then they are standards on the quarter deck.
  19. Looks like your drawing is not typical. The tafferel (aft) is lower than usual, so that there is a bulwark forward of it to make up the height for safety. This being the case, the tafferel is the width of the blue line, as it butts up against the bulwark. The latter has its own rail, the width of which you can measure directly from the plan.
  20. As usual, your progress is a delight to watch, Gary!
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