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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I agree that in model work that is the usual convention. However, in many real ships both the side and transom planks hooded into rabbets in the fashion piece (the curved timber that made the 'corner' of the stern). This was to avoid exposed end-grain, where moisture could wick in to the planks and start rot. I've done this the 'correct' way on a model and can state that it is a very tricky job! No wonder one doesn't see this on models.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Bob: I use VM&P naphtha as rubber cement solvent, available from paint merchants. -
I agree with you, Kester, that this was sometimes done. Thanks for reminding me. However, on a model I would tone the blocks down from pure white anyway so that they would not jump out visually.
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Regardless of the wood used, the shade should not be too pale. Models with white or pale blocks look very distracting: they look like a snowstorm in the rigging to my eye.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Jim: once you've made a successful cast timber, you won't look back. Except, perhaps, unless you make two right-hand ones instead of a left and a right pair! -
Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A very nice, methodical approach, Bob! Looking good. -
I agree with Chazz' comments. The other advantage of a graver is that it is more rigid than, say, a micro chisel or gouge. The latter have long shafts and tend to flex in use.
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Nice shots of the model. Nice garden as well!
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Note that there are always a odd number of holes in the rim of the top, or reeving the line won't work out properly! One of these holes is always on the midline, of course.
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Also Admiralty Models sell some plans for scratch-built 18th century models. See www.admiraltymodels.com
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Exactly, Greg! -
Well played, sir!
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Looks like you're doing a nice job on your model, George. I assume the line is what was supplied with the kit. That is the problem, by the look of it. I can suggest three possible solutions. One, before you rig, take the length of line and stretch it under tension. This might 'set' it, so that it loses the tendency to twist. If the fibre is synthetic it will have a 'memory', so this may not work for you. Two, make your own rope from cotton thread. There are various simple ropewalk designs (probably you can find designs for them elsewhere on this site). It is not too difficult, and will supply stable line in different sizes as you need them. The raw materials are not expensive, either! My own ropewalk is made from an old electric drill and my childhood Meccano gears, among other ingredients. Three, there are companies that supply commercially made rope for model makers.
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This is an interesting project with a history! I'm looking forward as you continue to restore her, Russ.
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This is looking good, Joss!
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Ah, yes. measurements. I have a favorite cartoon that goes like this: Manager: "My philosophy is, measure twice, then cut twice, then, uh...." Underling1: "...give the tape measure a bad performance review?" Underling 2: "Hee, hee! (Pause) Ooh."
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Love the tafferel carvings, Ed. Those blank areas are crying out for some ornamentation, though: a spray of bulrushes or reeds, perhaps? Or even a weeping willow.....
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One way to mark out small spars is to take a strip of card stock and mark the 7-10-7 proportions on it's edge to the maximum spar diameter. As you mark along the spar, turn the card at an angle so the outermost marks coincide with the edges of the foursquare as it tapers. Pencil the inner marks on the flats at intervals. Make sure that the pencil point is very fine! That will be sufficient guide to cut the octagon accurately.
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Life and modelmaking is often like that: one step forward, two back.... Good for you to have the courage to do a re-make.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well, you are moving forward nicely, Maury. I'm not sure that the lowest athwartship plank should intrude down into the limber channel. It might be better to align the lower edges with the top of the limber boards. -
ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful craftsmanship, as usual!- 662 replies
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This is a problem. There are obviously omitted stations in the body plan near the midships, where the lines should be very close together and dense. While what is shown is well delineated, you don't really have enough information to be certain, as neither waterlines or buttock lines are shown. If you are experienced, I suppose you could approximate the form of the ship in the middle part of the body, but it would involve a fair amount of 'by guess and by golly' work.
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Ausgeziechnet! Terrific work and photography, Robert.
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A more accurate proportion is 7-10-7. Another way of saying this is that the width across the spar when square at any point is 24 parts. Measure in 7 parts of the 24 from each edge and this will, when planed off at 45 degrees, give you a perfect octagonal cross-section.
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