druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Are the riders shown on the 'design' profile or the 'as built' one? If the former, your theory must be correct. If the latter, perhaps the draftsman mis-measured? Either way, a beautiful job on the fixed blocks. -
Those stay tackles were also used for cargo handling and provisioning: one was directly over the main hatch and the other over the fore hatch.
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Exemplary work as always, Ed!
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It's tricky, trying to keep in mind everything above the deck you are working on aligning properly later. I'm glad that you caught that earlier rather than too late!
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FLOQUIL PAINT IS HISTORY
druxey replied to kurtvd19's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
re: the letter from Testors, last paragraph: "increased customer intimacy"? What kind of horrible PR-speak is that???? I don't want to go there with you, Kristin Schiro! -
Those reworked hinges look great. Piet. Well worth the extra effort.
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Just starting a deck's worth of ledges, so I'm looking enviously at yours! Your model is coming along beautifully, Toni.
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Good going, Dan. The non-skid areas came out very nicely in the end. Well done!
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Very impressive work, Johann! Thanks for sharing your pictures.
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Mica is a naturally occurring material, Randy. Rockhounds' shops will have it. It comes in layered sheets that are slightly tinted. You peel the layers apart. The individual layers are very thin and also somewhat flexible. As it is a natural material, there are usually spots and flaws in it and you will need to select areas that are flawless. Cuts easily with sharp scissors. If the scissors are dull, the edges tend to crack and become opaque. That said, it's easy to work with if you are careful. In the old days, mica was also used in enclosed fireplaces as it is semi-transparent in thicker pieces and heat resistant. When I was young I recall 'Otto' stoves in England that had mica windows in the front-opening doors.
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That is an interesting idea, Ian. I wish I'd heard of that years ago. I managed to go through a box of 100 microscope slide covers without making one successful piece of glazing! I am now using mica. That is easily cut to shape. It's what the old-time ship modelmakers used.
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What you illustrate is the inboard end of a studdingsail boom and its iron, John: this isn't quite the same thing as a swinging bumpkin. The latter is shorter and has (usually) several blocks attached to it.
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Such bumpkins can be seen rigged on Cutty Sark. I must say, when I first read the subject header, I thought this thread was about simple country folk and their partner-swapping habits....
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
druxey replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Terrific work: definitely stupendo! -
My own take is that the cants did not cross the doorways, but I could be wrong. Nice going, Dan!
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Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
druxey replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Truckin' right along there, Jim. Good stuff! -
Copper, bronze and brass. How to treat them.
druxey replied to Modeler12's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thank you, gentlemen, for this interesting and informative discussion! -
Those carlings line up very nicely, Toni. Well done! One can't finish a fully framed model in weeks or months, unfortunately.... Good things take time.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Ah! Contact cement is a very different beast from rubber cement. One can now get non-solvent based contact cement, I believe. Much safer and better for health and the environment. -
Well, Grant, it's your model and you have to be happy with how it looks. My opinion doesn't matter!
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Allan: higher up, it wasn't so critical as it was well above water level. The wale and side planking there extended aft past the planks of the counter.
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I agree that in model work that is the usual convention. However, in many real ships both the side and transom planks hooded into rabbets in the fashion piece (the curved timber that made the 'corner' of the stern). This was to avoid exposed end-grain, where moisture could wick in to the planks and start rot. I've done this the 'correct' way on a model and can state that it is a very tricky job! No wonder one doesn't see this on models.
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
druxey replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Bob: I use VM&P naphtha as rubber cement solvent, available from paint merchants. -
I agree with you, Kester, that this was sometimes done. Thanks for reminding me. However, on a model I would tone the blocks down from pure white anyway so that they would not jump out visually.
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Regardless of the wood used, the shade should not be too pale. Models with white or pale blocks look very distracting: they look like a snowstorm in the rigging to my eye.
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