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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Glad your hawse timber issue has been resolved.
  2. druxey
    Gentle heat forming might be worth experimenting with, rather than wetting the sail.
  3. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Al. Looks like a worthwhile model to restore/conserve.
  4. druxey
    Great looking fries, Ron! Neat work so far.
  5. druxey
    Good to see you back, Hellmut. Virtual flying will certainly exercise your cerebral cortex! Thanks for letting us know how you are doing.
  6. druxey
    I agree that, for most things, CA is an abomination. As Allan pointed out, if a part has been properly pre-shaped, no serious clamping will be necessary; just finger pressure. A vet friend of mine does use surgical grade CA - for minor accidents in his workshop.
  7. druxey
    Thank you!, Allan, Two interesting points: One, the transitional deadeye from triangular to circular form and two, the signet labeled 'MT'. It should of course, read 'TM' as the impression would be reversed!
  8. druxey
    I don't know, Allan. Tube water color would be an expensive way to go and contains gum arabic which might inhibit the action. Powdered yellow ochre is inexpensive. For example: https://www.amazon.ca/Icles-Ochre-Natural-Mineral-Pigment/dp/B073NPH91W/ref=sr_1_39?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIj06luu1IY5HeJkdJAAG2XqKJa-BSQcHs5OXBn6kBINFpJnfXpebTBoCRyAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=595964043576&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000745&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=241234424768893934&hvtargid=kwd-792993069&hydadcr=20572_13350556&keywords=ochre+pigment&qid=1677676446&sr=8-39 This will last you a lifetime of soldering! (Or you can re-market it to other modelers in 10cc packages.)
  9. druxey
    No; as the ship rolls in the seas, water will run off just fine! You notice the beam scantlings get lighter on each successive deck. Increased round-up also resists vertical deflection to compensate for decreased cross-section. Clever, weren't they?
  10. druxey
    Roger: there is very little water in the paste and it evaporates rapidly. The ochre must be the inhibitor, I think. Not much is needed, either.
  11. druxey
    Looking very smart with your paint job as well as neat, clean work.
  12. druxey
    The best tip I ever got was from a jeweller. She showed me that one could solder successive joints that were close together without using a heat sink. Simply paint the joint to be protected with a slurry of yellow ochre powder in water. It prevents that joint from melting again.
  13. druxey
    Very sweet joinery, Mike!
  14. druxey
    Looks like you have the beast tamed now, Alan! Aesthetics aside, the increased round-up was not only aesthetic, but also provided a valuable few inches of extra headroom in the cabins as well.
  15. druxey
    Congratulations on reaching another mile stone (or, if you prefer, 'milestone'). Looks like your shop vac will be w*rking soon!
  16. druxey
    Oh, man; that was labor intensive work! Result looks great, though.
  17. druxey
    Definitely PVA for holding delicate pieces: rubber cement is not reliable for this application. I soak the pieces off when complete in a bath of isopropanol ( a jam jar!).
  18. druxey
    That is one square that you don't drop!
  19. druxey
    As mentioned above, the drying rates are a factor in that craquelure finish. It is unlikely that the acrylic primer was incompatible with oil paint: artists use acrylic primer all the time on canvas and then apply oil over this. The problem lies in either the use of Liquin and rapid drying or reaction between oil and lacquer. If using lacquer thinner, make sure you have good ventilation, no open flame anywhere close by and, if possible, a NIOSH respirator mask. Acetone is nasty stuff. As advised, a gloss finish is not the best choice for a model. I'd suggest acrylic primer and oils paint, but allow the paint to dry slowly using only turpentine with a little linseed oil added as solvent. It's too bad that you had this problem as your paint job looked very well done.
  20. druxey
    Looks like a very nice planking job. Well done. There will be filling and sanding required, though!
  21. druxey
    I hope Doris is doing all right after her loss. We miss her here on MSW. Are you aware of the Boston Museum of Fine Art starboard side rendering of SOS that was made at the time? It's as good an idea as we'll ever have of how she looked until we can make a Time Machine. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/32448/sovereign-of-the-seas?ctx=556e234d-fe34-44f4-a732-16e9958db243&idx=0
  22. druxey
    Personal taste makes each model different. One has to please oneself first!
  23. druxey
    Muscovite is also known as mica. Much easier than glass to cut as well! Sharp scissors will do it.
  24. druxey
    Thanks, Bruce. We have a lot of evidence of copper sheathing, but I don't recall seeing a visual of lead sheathing before.
  25. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Stephan; bienvenue!

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