druxey
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Corolla Beach, North Carolina 17th century wreck study progress
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thank you!, Allan, Two interesting points: One, the transitional deadeye from triangular to circular form and two, the signet labeled 'MT'. It should of course, read 'TM' as the impression would be reversed!- 1 reply
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I don't know, Allan. Tube water color would be an expensive way to go and contains gum arabic which might inhibit the action. Powdered yellow ochre is inexpensive. For example: https://www.amazon.ca/Icles-Ochre-Natural-Mineral-Pigment/dp/B073NPH91W/ref=sr_1_39?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIj06luu1IY5HeJkdJAAG2XqKJa-BSQcHs5OXBn6kBINFpJnfXpebTBoCRyAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=595964043576&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000745&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=241234424768893934&hvtargid=kwd-792993069&hydadcr=20572_13350556&keywords=ochre+pigment&qid=1677676446&sr=8-39 This will last you a lifetime of soldering! (Or you can re-market it to other modelers in 10cc packages.)
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No; as the ship rolls in the seas, water will run off just fine! You notice the beam scantlings get lighter on each successive deck. Increased round-up also resists vertical deflection to compensate for decreased cross-section. Clever, weren't they?
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Roger: there is very little water in the paste and it evaporates rapidly. The ochre must be the inhibitor, I think. Not much is needed, either.
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Looking very smart with your paint job as well as neat, clean work.
- 38 replies
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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The best tip I ever got was from a jeweller. She showed me that one could solder successive joints that were close together without using a heat sink. Simply paint the joint to be protected with a slurry of yellow ochre powder in water. It prevents that joint from melting again.
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Very sweet joinery, Mike!
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Looks like you have the beast tamed now, Alan! Aesthetics aside, the increased round-up was not only aesthetic, but also provided a valuable few inches of extra headroom in the cabins as well.
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Congratulations on reaching another mile stone (or, if you prefer, 'milestone'). Looks like your shop vac will be w*rking soon!
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Oh, man; that was labor intensive work! Result looks great, though.
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Definitely PVA for holding delicate pieces: rubber cement is not reliable for this application. I soak the pieces off when complete in a bath of isopropanol ( a jam jar!).
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That is one square that you don't drop!
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Oil paint varnish help
druxey replied to modeller_masa's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
As mentioned above, the drying rates are a factor in that craquelure finish. It is unlikely that the acrylic primer was incompatible with oil paint: artists use acrylic primer all the time on canvas and then apply oil over this. The problem lies in either the use of Liquin and rapid drying or reaction between oil and lacquer. If using lacquer thinner, make sure you have good ventilation, no open flame anywhere close by and, if possible, a NIOSH respirator mask. Acetone is nasty stuff. As advised, a gloss finish is not the best choice for a model. I'd suggest acrylic primer and oils paint, but allow the paint to dry slowly using only turpentine with a little linseed oil added as solvent. It's too bad that you had this problem as your paint job looked very well done. -
Looks like a very nice planking job. Well done. There will be filling and sanding required, though!
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- Harriet Lane
- Model Shipways
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I hope Doris is doing all right after her loss. We miss her here on MSW. Are you aware of the Boston Museum of Fine Art starboard side rendering of SOS that was made at the time? It's as good an idea as we'll ever have of how she looked until we can make a Time Machine. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/32448/sovereign-of-the-seas?ctx=556e234d-fe34-44f4-a732-16e9958db243&idx=0
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Personal taste makes each model different. One has to please oneself first!
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Muscovite is also known as mica. Much easier than glass to cut as well! Sharp scissors will do it.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Thanks, Bruce. We have a lot of evidence of copper sheathing, but I don't recall seeing a visual of lead sheathing before.
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Welcome aboard, Stephan; bienvenue!
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For what it's worth, I find it far easier to do the cant framing fore and aft first, as the inside is far more accessible for fairing. Whether your method would allow this, after setting up the most forward and aft square frame, I don't know.
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Odd, indeed, Harvey; but fortunately we now have an accurate picture of how it was done!
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Came across this interesting record of lead sheathing on the RMG site. Unlike copper, the vertical joints were not offset: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-80442 The top appears to have a protective wood batten at least 1' 0" wide. The plates appear to be 5' 0" x 1' 6".
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Excellently done, Mike. Congratulations on reaching the finish line.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nice finish and good problem solving!
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Lovely as usual. Are you glad that there aren't 74 cannon and carriages to make?
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