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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Ah, the learning curve. Some of use needed several attempts before we 'got it'. The up side is that you'll get it right first time on subsequent models.
  2. druxey
    Beautifully presented, but I find it looks a little too high or deep. Can this be adjusted (see photo of the real thing)?
  3. druxey
    Most, if not all of us, don't fully realize what we are getting ourselves into until long after committing to a project. This applies to renovations as well as models.
  4. druxey
    Your attention to the run of plank at the bow is so important; so many models have the planking rise too high at the extreme bow with the result looking less than graceful. I hope your kit builders take the same care!
  5. druxey
    Also see: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl For sailmaking using Silkspan.
  6. druxey
    Yes, one comment: the plate should also include the maker's name! You are too modest.
  7. druxey
    Glad to be of service to you, gentlemen! Congratulations on publication of a significant article, Rich, and take a big bow.
  8. druxey
    Siggi: I thought you had labelled the draught Essex of 1741 (Post #875). What ship is that of then?
  9. druxey
    re the Essex draught: the floor battens retaining bricks are shown in plan view as the double lines. Aft of the stove is a heavy curved bulkhead with two doors. The stove area itself does not appear to be enclosed. No doorway is indicated along the lines of battens.
  10. druxey
    Quite the spider's web now!
  11. druxey
    A smear or squeeze-out of PVA can be dealt with using a damp brush before the glue sets.
  12. druxey
    A small butane torch creates sufficient heat to anneal brass rod or tube. Be sure to do it on heat proof surface! When peening over, multiple very gentle taps work far better than banging down hard once or twice. This is especially true if the wood is soft, like basswood. Again back up with a very hard surface that will spread the other end of the piece being peened.
  13. druxey
    If you can post a photo of the deck paint issue, we might be able to advise you better.
  14. druxey
    Looks great, Ron. And you don't look so bad either!
  15. druxey
    Oil paint, when new, is soluble in alcohol. As the paint film ages - and we are talking decades here - it becomes less soluble. After a century or so, if you are prepared to wait it out....
  16. druxey
    Yes, those knees are much less likely to fracture. The copper bolts look very pleasing, if tedious to do.
  17. druxey
    Henry: Without seeing exactly what you are doing, it is hard to diagnose what your issue is. (It could be one - or more - of a number of problems.) Might I suggest you find a jeweler to teach you the techniques that you need?
  18. druxey
    Nice neat job and presentation, Bryan. Well done!
  19. druxey
    Just catching up. I winced looking at the photos of the Great Entanglement and could not click 'like' on those images. Well done on recovering from that disaster, Vladimir. Carving is such a different skill set from other ship model activities and low relief scrollwork to scale is particularly painstaking. Your results so far look great.
  20. druxey
    Glad your hawse timber issue has been resolved.
  21. druxey
    Gentle heat forming might be worth experimenting with, rather than wetting the sail.
  22. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Al. Looks like a worthwhile model to restore/conserve.
  23. druxey
    Great looking fries, Ron! Neat work so far.
  24. druxey
    Good to see you back, Hellmut. Virtual flying will certainly exercise your cerebral cortex! Thanks for letting us know how you are doing.
  25. druxey
    I agree that, for most things, CA is an abomination. As Allan pointed out, if a part has been properly pre-shaped, no serious clamping will be necessary; just finger pressure. A vet friend of mine does use surgical grade CA - for minor accidents in his workshop.

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