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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I suppose it depends on the state of your nerve!
  2. druxey
    Nice update article and video on this vessel: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-wales-64151535
  3. druxey
    Ah, the joys of discoveries and figuring out revisions. I had exactly the same issue with my first scratch model, a 64. I cut a small notch into the back of the knee to locate the central extension of the knee. then glued in a slightly over-sized piece. Once the hair brackets were carved and added, I filed the assembly down flush athwartships. Hope this might help you.
  4. druxey
    Coming along very nicely! Your methodical approach is paying off well.
  5. druxey
    Nice looking gratings, Ben!
  6. druxey
    I might be concerned about the pH value of bitumen and whether it would have a long term effect on materials. Conservators have a very difficult time with bituminous paints as they never fully polymerize and 'set'.
  7. druxey
    Basswood dents easily, but it's usually good when treated as you suggested.
  8. druxey
    Check out Bob's build log for additional helpful information:
  9. druxey
    The book covers carvel as well!
  10. druxey
    Allan; you are assuming that Bray's lovely illustration is of a boat belonging to Pallas. I interpret that as a boat ashore that he saw, not one of his ship's boats.
  11. druxey
    Yes, the trim of masts could be altered. One method was by adjusting the wedges at the partners. Another method (in use in the 18th century, at least) was a moveable mast step that could slide a few inches fore and aft along the keelson. it was secured by pairs of wedges fore and aft of the step. The wedges rested between the step and bolts driven into the keelson..
  12. druxey
    For planking information, check the pinned articles on this very site! Another source is the book on open boat construction: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/the-greenwich-hospital-barge-of-1832-and-methods-of-building-open-boats-by-david-antscherl?_pos=6&_fid=1cc675229&_ss=c
  13. druxey
    Well, you have a wealth of information available, Rob! That makes for a good start.
  14. druxey
    Rather than chalk, I use lead pencil.
  15. druxey
    'Turned up' it is! Thank you, Bruce.
  16. druxey
    Step by step it will be much less scary than looking at all the parts at once!
  17. druxey
    Interesting use of the word 'tuned', James.
  18. druxey
    0.4 mm? Tut, tut, Mark! Seriously, that is an impressive degree of accuracy that won't need much tweaking at all.
  19. druxey
    Nice bit of kit to have. Your work so far looks very neatly done.
  20. druxey
    I think Jaager is correct: turned rather than tuned. Sometimes transcribing period script is difficult.
  21. druxey
    Sleepers are very tricky to get 'just so'; you've made a super job of them, Mark!
  22. druxey
    Doing a nice careful job of it, Don. Styrene for sanding sticks is a good idea.
  23. druxey
    The bumping would be even worse at the bottom end around that small diameter rowle! The 'in the air' tube would probably have been be supported within the well that surrounds all the pump mechanisms.
  24. druxey
    The problem may be two fold. One; various plastic formulations will react differently as they have different malleability points and ranges. So what may work nicely on one plastic will be a disaster on another. The other issue that you've already alluded to is the varying thickness of the moldings. If you can determine the malleabilty range of the plastic you are using and apply just that amount of heat to the piece gradually getting it up to temperature with the piece on the curved form, then allowing it to cool, it might do the trick. Good luck!
  25. druxey
    And let's not mention Goya's etchings of the Disasters of War....

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