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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Then the black plastic filament will do the trick for you, I think, and not cause problems later.
  2. Might I suggest that iron is not a good idea to use in any model. It will rust and stain the wood over time. This can be seen in many old models. Use either chemically blackened brass or copper wire. Some model makers use black synthetic line.
  3. Welcome to the party, Stephane; bienvenue ici!
  4. Aaaand... you leaped on that challenge really promptly! Glad to see the cutter once again making headway. Well done, Michael.
  5. That's a sledge hammer for a finishing nail! Try watchmakers' slotting files and escapement files by hand for the best results when forming scratch molding tools.
  6. Syren Ship Model Company immediately springs to mind. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
  7. A suggested upgrade for the rope you need would be from the Syren Ship Model Company. Line about .035" or .045" in tan would be about right. See: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php
  8. Well done, Dafi; especially showing the correct way to man the capstan!
  9. That is exemplary work. Even scale rose lashings - now that is classy!
  10. It was this model, with a flex-shaft takeoff at the side. A real beater! But, back to the subject. Philip Reed's books are excellent tutorials for making exquisite miniature models.
  11. Steaming right along there, Nils.... Not much space to turn her around in, though! Anything much larger would have to be a half-model.
  12. Nice beginning. I smiled when you showed your Dremel scroll saw. My first power tool back in about 1969 was an early Dremel. While it did the job, it vibrated so much that my fingers tingled for 20 minutes after each frame cutting session! Hopefully the modern version has improved.
  13. Just catching up with your (mis)adventures, Dafi! Some woking things do not scale well, unfortunately. Valiant effort, though.
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