druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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In wooden ships of the 18th century, the downward curve of a deck at the bow (the camber!) was related to the position of the hawse holes. The primary reason was that if the hawse holes were to come in a deck lower, freeboard would be insufficient and present a hazard. If the holes were high enough to come in at the deck above they would interfere with the headwork. The compromise was to locate the holes 'just right' and lower the forward end of the deck so that it came just below the level of the holes. The bonus was the drainage. Some ships had sloping hawse chutes instead to improve headroom for part of the deck below. -
As an extension of this thread to carving in general, I've just come across the story of two master carvers, past and present: https://spitalfieldslife.com/2021/07/12/the-quest-for-grinling-gibbons/#comments Studying the photos, it's a lesson in how to carve brilliantly. Something to aspire to!
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If one begins with a sheer line along the crown (centerline) of the beams, there will be unfairness at the ship's side with constant round up as described above. I do not think that this is true if one begins with a fair sheer line at the ship's side. Any comments. anyone?
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Coming along nicely!
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This video on the carving of a new figure for the Cutty Sark gives one carver's philosophy on carving. Five minutes worth spending! https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/new-figurehead-cutty-sark?mc_cid=1a42470307&mc_eid=ffd41ea53a#history
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Thank you, Phil, for graphically showing what I tried to describe in post #16. As for definitions, they have changed over time. In the period I've studied most, the 18th century, round up referred to the curve of the beams athwartships and camber referred to the downward sheer of a deck; usually at the bow towards the hawse holes.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You may find that once the sides of the boxing joint are sanded and horseshoe plates applied, it will look fine.- 122 replies
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I suspect that you are making thing unnecessarily difficult for yourself. Let us assume constant arciform round up. Think of the sheer plan view of the vessel. If you place the beams with the upper surface of their outer ends on a smooth sheer curve (that at the ship's side), the line of the beams at the centerline will mirror the curve at the sides for a short distance fore and aft. As you approach bow or stern, the sheer line at the center will converge with the sheer at the side in a smooth manner, ending together at the bow.
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Did you pre-drill holes for the nails? If not, that is helpful.
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Terry: The lower surface of the beam ends might be trimmed horizontally, but normally the underside would arch up to maximize the (limited) headroom below.
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It makes no difference surely, as a vessel is not static like a building. There I can see that an ellipse might be used: roofs - generally - do not taper! A ship rolls, so why bother with an elliptical round-up?
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Allan: your video is actually terrifying. Now I truly understand the rate of deforestation of this planet. I had no idea how ruthlessly efficient and rapidly trees can be dispatched.
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I think one needs an odd number of holes for crowsfeet, or it won't work out!
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While all deck beams can be shaped to the same round up, as a batch it doesn't quite work. At the dead flat the beams are rectangular in section, but become increasingly parallelogram in section as one proceeds fore and aft, due to the rising sheer of the deck. Therefore the beams fore and aft need to be a little deeper to allow for the bevel top and bottom.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Coming along nicely! -
HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
If I may suggest making but not attaching tehe knee of the head until after planking the bow. The 'nose' will get in the way of clamping or securing the hooding ends of the planks. Lovely work so far!- 122 replies
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Nice to see you back in the shipyard! I think you are on the mark (pun intended) for the fixed blocks with the degree of tumblehome you are dealing with. For the moldings, how about predrilling them and temporarily securing them with pins rather than clamping them? Of course, you will need to pre-bend the moldings at the bow. Replace the pins with treenails once glued in place.
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Congratulations on a very nice model, Bob! It doesn't matter how long one has been modeling, there's always something new to challenge one. Overcoming those challenges is a satisfying feeling, isn't it? So, what is next, I wonder?
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I'm late to the party, but what a party! Superb and convincing work there, Gary. You are the king of grunge!
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You are doing fine. It's just the learning curve as you figure out how different materials 'work'. We've all been there or are still there!
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Nice and neat. The coppering should cover stem and stern post as well as the keel.
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Nice result for your first model. Well done!
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That's right, this is a family oriented site! The Bowdlerlized versions will do. (Look him up.)
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Take your pick! At least an even number of shrouds means that no cont splicing will be required.
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