Bob Cleek

Beautiful build so far! Not to distract you with petty questions, but I'm curious if something was "lost in the translation" of the above statement. I've done a lot of boatyard work with epoxy resin. As I am sure you know, the curing speed of epoxy resin is dependent to a great extent to the temperature of the epoxy. Reducing the temperature of the epoxy resin and hardener mixture will greatly slow the speed of the cure. With all my epoxy work, I try to mix the epoxy in a flat pan rather than a tall-sided container like a can. This expands the surface area of the resin mass to permit the greatest dissipation of the heat generated by the exothermic reaction of the curing process which otherwise can accelerate out of control dangerously.  In some large laminating jobs, I've even put the epoxy container on ice to slow things down enough to get everything assembled and clamped before the resin "kicks off." (This can reduce the temperature of the epoxy enough to cause condensation to form on it, causing it to "cloud," but this moisture seems to evaporate on its own without any ill effects to the bond and the "clouding" disappears in due course.) 
 
I gather a "construction hair dryer" is what we call a "heat gun," basically a hair dryer that gets very hot. These have generally replaced the old open-flame "painter's blowtorches." Are you saying that heat applied to epoxy that is curing too quickly can be heated to reverse the polymerization process and thus "re-liquefy" it? In my experience, heat speeds up the curing rate of epoxy resin, making it harden faster. I've never heard of heating curing epoxy to reverse the hardening (polymerization) process. (Which isn't to say I've heard everything yet!  ) In commercial work here in the United States, we use hardeners that produce a cure at varying rates of speed. I prefer using one rated for "tropical" use in hot weather which retards the cure rate substantially because I'd rather have the time to get the job done before the resin hardens and I have no reason to desire a fast cure in the work I do. (See: User Manual & Product Guide | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy translated into various languages.) 
 
I've heated cured epoxy resin with a heat gun when scraping paint that was applied over epoxy resin and found that the resin softens somewhat, but scrapes off in a dry, "crumbly," consistency and not "liquefied." If simply heating epoxy that is curing too fast with a heat gun reverses the curing process, that would sure be a good trick to know when working with epoxy.
 
Please explain if you have time from your great work. 

Beautiful build so far! Not to distract you with petty questions, but I'm curious if something was "lost in the translation" of the above statement. I've done a lot of boatyard work with epoxy resin. As I am sure you know, the curing speed of epoxy resin is dependent to a great extent to the temperature of the epoxy. Reducing the temperature of the epoxy resin and hardener mixture will greatly slow the speed of the cure. With all my epoxy work, I try to mix the epoxy in a flat pan rather than a tall-sided container like a can. This expands the surface area of the resin mass to permit the greatest dissipation of the heat generated by the exothermic reaction of the curing process which otherwise can accelerate out of control dangerously.  In some large laminating jobs, I've even put the epoxy container on ice to slow things down enough to get everything assembled and clamped before the resin "kicks off." (This can reduce the temperature of the epoxy enough to cause condensation to form on it, causing it to "cloud," but this moisture seems to evaporate on its own without any ill effects to the bond and the "clouding" disappears in due course.) 
 
I gather a "construction hair dryer" is what we call a "heat gun," basically a hair dryer that gets very hot. These have generally replaced the old open-flame "painter's blowtorches." Are you saying that heat applied to epoxy that is curing too quickly can be heated to reverse the polymerization process and thus "re-liquefy" it? In my experience, heat speeds up the curing rate of epoxy resin, making it harden faster. I've never heard of heating curing epoxy to reverse the hardening (polymerization) process. (Which isn't to say I've heard everything yet!  ) In commercial work here in the United States, we use hardeners that produce a cure at varying rates of speed. I prefer using one rated for "tropical" use in hot weather which retards the cure rate substantially because I'd rather have the time to get the job done before the resin hardens and I have no reason to desire a fast cure in the work I do. (See: User Manual & Product Guide | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy translated into various languages.) 
 
I've heated cured epoxy resin with a heat gun when scraping paint that was applied over epoxy resin and found that the resin softens somewhat, but scrapes off in a dry, "crumbly," consistency and not "liquefied." If simply heating epoxy that is curing too fast with a heat gun reverses the curing process, that would sure be a good trick to know when working with epoxy.
 
Please explain if you have time from your great work. 

Beautiful build so far! Not to distract you with petty questions, but I'm curious if something was "lost in the translation" of the above statement. I've done a lot of boatyard work with epoxy resin. As I am sure you know, the curing speed of epoxy resin is dependent to a great extent to the temperature of the epoxy. Reducing the temperature of the epoxy resin and hardener mixture will greatly slow the speed of the cure. With all my epoxy work, I try to mix the epoxy in a flat pan rather than a tall-sided container like a can. This expands the surface area of the resin mass to permit the greatest dissipation of the heat generated by the exothermic reaction of the curing process which otherwise can accelerate out of control dangerously.  In some large laminating jobs, I've even put the epoxy container on ice to slow things down enough to get everything assembled and clamped before the resin "kicks off." (This can reduce the temperature of the epoxy enough to cause condensation to form on it, causing it to "cloud," but this moisture seems to evaporate on its own without any ill effects to the bond and the "clouding" disappears in due course.) 
 
I gather a "construction hair dryer" is what we call a "heat gun," basically a hair dryer that gets very hot. These have generally replaced the old open-flame "painter's blowtorches." Are you saying that heat applied to epoxy that is curing too quickly can be heated to reverse the polymerization process and thus "re-liquefy" it? In my experience, heat speeds up the curing rate of epoxy resin, making it harden faster. I've never heard of heating curing epoxy to reverse the hardening (polymerization) process. (Which isn't to say I've heard everything yet!  ) In commercial work here in the United States, we use hardeners that produce a cure at varying rates of speed. I prefer using one rated for "tropical" use in hot weather which retards the cure rate substantially because I'd rather have the time to get the job done before the resin hardens and I have no reason to desire a fast cure in the work I do. (See: User Manual & Product Guide | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy translated into various languages.) 
 
I've heated cured epoxy resin with a heat gun when scraping paint that was applied over epoxy resin and found that the resin softens somewhat, but scrapes off in a dry, "crumbly," consistency and not "liquefied." If simply heating epoxy that is curing too fast with a heat gun reverses the curing process, that would sure be a good trick to know when working with epoxy.
 
Please explain if you have time from your great work. 

If one is intending to accurately depict the prototype in miniature, I believe Jaager's answer is the only correct one. it's not a matter of personal opinion if the object of the exercise is to build a model that looks like the real thing. If metal fastenings were used, as was the case in later times, these would be countersunk and plugged as Jaager describes in order to minimize rusting of the iron fastenings. Depicting fastening locations in an unpainted fully framed model ("Admiralty Board style") can be nicely done by gluing black fishing line of the proper scale diameter into drilled holes, but such fastening "locaters" would never be visible in an actual full-scale vessel. However, if the black fishing line holes are not drilled precisely where the fastenings on the prototype vessel would have to have been placed, the job will result in a worse effect than if the fastenings were left unindicated. 
 
I mention this because the original poster asked, "I have fishing line at 0.23, 0.32 and 0.5mm, color black.  Is it appropriate color for hull and Deck treenails or is it too dark?  what size best (1/64 scale)?" I suppose we just have different definitions of the word "appropriate" in this context. Obviously, a model builder is always free to paint their model any color they wish. 

No need for apologies. I find the same frustration with the search engine myself. (Sometimes opening up another window and "googling" a topic is actually an easier way to find it in the MSW forum!) In this instance, "horseshoe" was an easy one to search. Google would have yielded twenty-six "sponsored" advertisements for horseshoes and local farriers, I'm sure!
 
What I'd like to know about these "horseshoes" used to reinforce scarf joints is why they were horseshoe-shaped. It seems to my "armchair shipwright's" mind that a squared flat plate would serve as well and be a lot easier to fabricate and install. I wonder if the shipsmiths actually just hammered flat old worn-out horseshoes to fashion these and didn't bother to take the time to forge straight, flat stock. Some of the horseshoe-shaped reinforcing plates are quite large, but draft horse hooves are quite large and there were a lot more draft horses around in those days than now.  It just doesn't seem like the shape has anything to do with the strength of the fitting. 

The "search" thingy is our friend!  See: 
 

Beautiful build so far! Not to distract you with petty questions, but I'm curious if something was "lost in the translation" of the above statement. I've done a lot of boatyard work with epoxy resin. As I am sure you know, the curing speed of epoxy resin is dependent to a great extent to the temperature of the epoxy. Reducing the temperature of the epoxy resin and hardener mixture will greatly slow the speed of the cure. With all my epoxy work, I try to mix the epoxy in a flat pan rather than a tall-sided container like a can. This expands the surface area of the resin mass to permit the greatest dissipation of the heat generated by the exothermic reaction of the curing process which otherwise can accelerate out of control dangerously.  In some large laminating jobs, I've even put the epoxy container on ice to slow things down enough to get everything assembled and clamped before the resin "kicks off." (This can reduce the temperature of the epoxy enough to cause condensation to form on it, causing it to "cloud," but this moisture seems to evaporate on its own without any ill effects to the bond and the "clouding" disappears in due course.) 
 
I gather a "construction hair dryer" is what we call a "heat gun," basically a hair dryer that gets very hot. These have generally replaced the old open-flame "painter's blowtorches." Are you saying that heat applied to epoxy that is curing too quickly can be heated to reverse the polymerization process and thus "re-liquefy" it? In my experience, heat speeds up the curing rate of epoxy resin, making it harden faster. I've never heard of heating curing epoxy to reverse the hardening (polymerization) process. (Which isn't to say I've heard everything yet!  ) In commercial work here in the United States, we use hardeners that produce a cure at varying rates of speed. I prefer using one rated for "tropical" use in hot weather which retards the cure rate substantially because I'd rather have the time to get the job done before the resin hardens and I have no reason to desire a fast cure in the work I do. (See: User Manual & Product Guide | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy translated into various languages.) 
 
I've heated cured epoxy resin with a heat gun when scraping paint that was applied over epoxy resin and found that the resin softens somewhat, but scrapes off in a dry, "crumbly," consistency and not "liquefied." If simply heating epoxy that is curing too fast with a heat gun reverses the curing process, that would sure be a good trick to know when working with epoxy.
 
Please explain if you have time from your great work. 

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

No need for apologies. I find the same frustration with the search engine myself. (Sometimes opening up another window and "googling" a topic is actually an easier way to find it in the MSW forum!) In this instance, "horseshoe" was an easy one to search. Google would have yielded twenty-six "sponsored" advertisements for horseshoes and local farriers, I'm sure!
 
What I'd like to know about these "horseshoes" used to reinforce scarf joints is why they were horseshoe-shaped. It seems to my "armchair shipwright's" mind that a squared flat plate would serve as well and be a lot easier to fabricate and install. I wonder if the shipsmiths actually just hammered flat old worn-out horseshoes to fashion these and didn't bother to take the time to forge straight, flat stock. Some of the horseshoe-shaped reinforcing plates are quite large, but draft horse hooves are quite large and there were a lot more draft horses around in those days than now.  It just doesn't seem like the shape has anything to do with the strength of the fitting. 

The "search" thingy is our friend!  See: 
 

Nothing screams "1960's" like a polyester resin-covered hatch cover coffee table on an avocado green shag carpet. Today's kids just wouldn't get it.   
 
 

Cute little gizmo, although I'm always leery of tools that trade torque for speed. It's the speedy ones that eat up drill bits. 
 
I suppose in all your excitement, you forgot to post the link to the source of the item. All we have is a picture. No brand name, no URL.. Can you tell us more?   
 
UPDATE: Never mind. I found it! Mini Bench Drill Press Precision CNC Table Milling Machine Portable Driller NePr | eBay
 
It's interesting in that until now I haven't seen much more from the "Patriotic Chinese People's Machine Tool Collective "than marginal quality cast iron and plastic. 13MM of quill travel (the max drilling depth) isn't a whole lot, though. Does the chuck hold really small number bits well? is it possible to mount a collet holder on the quill instead of the chuck provided? Interesting tool. 
 
Have you put a DTI on it to check the runout?
 
 

Dremel offered a range of collets for its Mototools and I expect they still do. I have a collection of collets, some from Dremel and some from "Who knows where." As said, though, the Dremel tools are much too fast for my taste. I use them these days almost exclusively for grinding and brushing and the like, but not for drilling small holes. 

Ditto t what Keith just wrote. It looks great to me! 
 

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

Sounds like you're a heavy coffee drinker. I've broken a lot of mugs over the years, but I've yet to wear one out!  

Thanks a lot  Bob and Nils I will update my blog once I paint it.
 
Regards
Richard

Ditto t what Keith just wrote. It looks great to me! 
 

Ditto t what Keith just wrote. It looks great to me! 
 

Ditto t what Keith just wrote. It looks great to me! 
 

After a year or so hiatus from building, I purchased and started Jotika's HMS Brig Supply. The kit suggests using hull painting over the supplied walnut. However, I like clean wood. Also, it has always puzzled me why you paint a hull when you take so much time to get the planking right.
 
In any case, I'm not going to paint. On a few of my previous builds I have used cherry, and quite like it. I was wondering if anyone has some other wood suggestions I might try...both hull and deck. I am fortunate to have both Byrnes saw and thickness sander, so making your own planks isn't arduous.
 
Any thoughts?

I think you can replace the collet on a dremel with a chuck that will hold smaller bits.