mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I'm not sure about this particular ship, but for a long-lived ship, rebuilds, reworks, etc. were common. Look at the differences in drawings/painting of Victory or Constitution for examples. Still, just pick one and go with it as it would be accurate for a point in time.
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Are these reference prints all the same ship? Even ships in the same class had differences. If you're doing just a generic 74, just pick one plan to follow for the chasers.
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Univ of Saigon 68.. Welcome to MSW. I suggest you do a intro in the new member area. From your screenname, I gather you are a vet. In my branch we referred to it as the "Univeristy of Science Music and Culture.... Da Nang Campus".
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Welcome to MSW, Jim. This hobby is indeed a great journey and a very rewarding one.
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Blackening copper? Liver of sulfur is what's used. It doesn't stain the wood, Check any of Ed Tosti's logs as he used it extensively.
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I think one old saying applies to modelbuilding..."there will be blood". I too am glad your injury wasn't more serious Ian.
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I find that I need quite a few clamps to hold the wood into position. I use Chucks method of soak, mount to a board in the shape I want and them clamp with more than a couple clamps especially at the center of the bend. Then hit it with the heat source. I try to get as much of the moisture out of the wood with the heat and then let it cool before removing it. Haven't had a problem bending yet.
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1936 Rolls Royce Phantom III by CDW - Revell - 1:16 scale
mtaylor replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Congratulations on to her on graduating and additional kudos for being debt free. -
Looks great from here. You might want to try one like Keith suggested using a single layer of paper.
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I received a notice yesterday that there was a data breech at some site I've never been to but my email showed up. Immediately changed passwords. Tis a perilous time we live in, it seems.
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Look good from here. At that scale, I'm surprised any detailing is possible.
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Another way to get natural looking flags is take an aluminum can, open it flat. Then bend it to the desired shape for the hanging flag. Put the flag on the shaped can and soak with white glue/water (if printed... test to see if the ink runs) and press into the can to shape. Let dry. I used that on my Constellation and Wasa and the flags came out very well, IMO.
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Welcome back home, Pete.
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See my post above (#14) about the this. For 1845,,,, you will need a serious bash of the kit as is being done here. Sadly, the author hasn't been back since his last post.
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Ah, got it. It's probably too late at this point as the foredeck is on and will limit access. But the cables would go through the hawse ports and then down. I remember seeing them (the cables) being installed and I think they were just tied together as that area is hidden and not much detail. Since I'm not adding the anchor cables on my build, I skipped that part. My bad.
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Uploading pictures
mtaylor replied to wernerweiss's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
Do you have a Windows PC by perchance? If so, download the photos to that and then use Paint (part of the Windows OS) to rotate, crop, etc. There might be something similar to Paint in the Apple world but I don't have any knowledge of those machines. -
Which cables are you speaking of? The anchor cables? BTW, I moved this to a more appropriate area.
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I'm thinking Hubac's Historian is spot on. With drawings they have a record of what worked and what didn't work.
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Offset for Hull Thickness
mtaylor replied to bigjimslade's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I believe as designer, you have the right and obligation to specify such parameters on the parts. And they should be noted in the instructions. As for how many layers? That's your choice though convention seems to be 1 or 2 layers. Usually the first layer is a non-premium wood like basswod. The second layer is something nicer. It does depend on your model era (wood or steel). As for materials... look on front page of MSW for starters. There's a long list of suppliers of many things. Also, there's various lumber companies that sell various woods. As to your last question... yes, definitely. I would consider a set plans incomplete without this info. I also suggest you go up to the Kit Reviews and have a look there to get and idea of what's in them. Also some build logs for the era you are interested in. MSW is vast resource of knowledge that can be applied. -
It doesn't say but did he or someone buy the Wing Nuts brand and molds?
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